70 MONTE

I have a 70 with a pretty much stock 350/350. It has the BOP 8.2 10 bolt in the back. I have an axel bearing starting to make noise and I thought now is the time to get rid of this 1 wheel peel BS and throw a posi in it since I have the axels out. Being that the motor is pretty much stock I thought I should get deeper gears because it can barely do a 1 wheel peel as it is. The guy I bought the car from said it had 3.31’s in it. Like an idiot I believed him and didn’t check before ordering all the new parts. Popped the cover off and the ring gear is saying it’s a 2.78. Is going from a 2.78 to a 3.55 too much? I don’t want to be at 4000 rpm to go 60 mph down the road. Should I buy some 3.31’s instead? The car is barely driven, usually just around town in the summertime but on the highway every once in a while. Thanks for your thoughts on this.

I have a 70 Monte with that hold off valve at the back. I have converted to disks in the back and got a new master and proportioning valve. Removed the valve on the master bolt. Do I need to remove the valve in the back too?

Yeah they said not to use a vent for the return line. Sniper manual says 3/8 send and return.

On the Aeromotive tank where does a vent hook up to?

I see the Holley and Tanks inc (same tank) say the fuel pump has 1/4” inlet/outlets. The sniper manual says not to use less than 3/8” fuel lines. Is that going to be a problem? That is the setup Holley recommends for the sniper but they contradict themselves.

I was hoping to avoid buying a new tank, pump, sending unit $$ by using what I got. I guess I can just buy the check valve vent to get by.

Hey guys, going to be installing a Sniper fuel injection unit. It comes with an external fuel pump. Looks like it needs a vented tank and my 70 is sealed. I understand I can use a vented cap but it will leak fuel as it sloshes around. Since I don’t have a return line either I was wondering if anyone knows of a sending unit that will fit the stock tank that has 3/8 out and return lines and also a vent line?

Here comes the blizard next will be the tranny needs an upgrade then the one wheel peel 10 bolt will be shot.

Damn, I was afraid of that. At this point by the time you factor in all cost and trouble maybe it would be more cost effective and easier just to get a crate motor to drop in and keep the stock one.

Hey Guys, I'm looking to get New heads, intake, and cam. It's going in a stock 350 with 115,000 miles on it. My question is, can I just put the new cam in or should I change the cam bearings too? If I should change the bearings can I do that in car without removing pan and crank?

For those of us with the wimpy 8.2 Super Chevy has a good article on rebuilding them in the new issue.

If i was to use a spacer with a performer should I use one with one large hole or one with four smaller holes?

Looking at an Edelbrock Air gap but was wondering if their is a better bang for the buck that is as good or better.

I just noticed your license plate Heckeng. How funny.

Thanks guys, About the termastat. Can you get one at a schucks or is that going to have to come from a radiator shop/summit.