Blackhawk

The only difference will be the holes drilled for the hood spear.

How much do you want to spend? There are good choices for halogen and LED, but I would avoid LEDs that don't have a projector.

I'm more surprised that ARH has a different header for the big block Monte, but I guess they're taking advantage of the extra room at the back of the engine. I'm running headers and a Pypes crossmember back exhaust, both made for Chevelles. The engine is in the same place relative to everything but the front crossmember and suspension between the two cars.

The window bottom stops need to be moved down. You'll need to pull the door panel, and there are two 7/16" bolt heads on the inner door structure that you'll loosen. Make a mark where the tang sits so that you can put it back in the same position. https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/1970-chevy-basket-case-chevelle-part-4

It amazes me that people in the 80's chewed on sheet metal like beavers, was there a nationwide nutritional deficiency? My package tray and dash looked like that, except the dash plastic was blown out like they opened it with a hammer.

https://www.rustreplace.com/home/1970-1972-monte-carlo Belden sells dash repair pieces for a fair price.

They're really there to help with assembly, once the arm rest is screwed onto the door they're not doing much. I could see putting one on the front post if you're running the 68-style plate shown in your photo.

Keep in mind that the ratio and number of turns lock to lock are only part of the equation. You'll get less turns lock to lock if the steering box has internal stops. If you run the 80's Camaro box with 17* less travel you'll have less turns but your turning radius in the car is going to get worse.

I remember seeing a table on here or Team Chevelle with a list of steering boxes, their ratio, and travel angle. This is pretty close to what I remember: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0901-gm-steering-box-upgrade Here are the Jeep specs, it shows one direction for the sweep compared to the table above, so 43* 45' is the same as 87* total travel. 1992-98 Grand Cherokee Fast Ratio Power Steering Gears YEAR CODE ORIGINAL APPLICATION GEARRATIO EFFORT T-BAR SIZE TRAVEL 1992.5-94 AL Jeep Grand Cherokee 12.7:1 20-26 0.195 Dia 43deg 45min 1995 JH Jeep Grand Cherokee 12.7:1 20-26 0.195 Dia 43deg 45min 1996 KD Jeep Grand Cherokee 12.7:1 20-26 0.195 Dia 43deg 45min 1997-98 WK Jeep Grand Cherokee 12.7:1 20-26 0.195 Dia 43deg 45min

If the hood won't stay up then the hinges probably need to be rebuilt, my steel cowl hood can stay partially open for months.

I did a gen III (2004 5.3L) swap with a 4L60E in my 71. It all depends on what you want to do with it, you could drop it in with your existing transmission and run it carbureted, get an aftermarket controller from Holley, Aces, Summit, etc., or do like me and integrate the stock LS computer into the Monte's wiring harness. My engine was out of the junkyard with 124K miles and the transmission was a rebuild with some of the stronger components. The mounts are polyurethane small block mounts with adapter plates that put the front of the LS in the same place as the stock engine. That let me use the stock TH350 linkage because it was in the same place as the shifted 4L60E. You can use a GM F-body LS1 oil pan instead of a more expensive swap pan because the Monte Carlo crossmember is further forward on the engine than it is on a Chevelle.

The Parts Place lists the same part number for both cars. Does the Skylark armrest look like this?: It may be plastic rather than vinyl covered, I don't think that many models had covered arm rests like we did.

Either run it along the transmission tunnel or on the outboard side of the floor where it starts to kick up to the sill.

Both the ignition switch and neutral safety switch should have a built in hole on the housing that you stick a pin or drill bit into for alignment. The alignment could be just a hair off and cause intermittent issues. I used a drill to set my neutral switch and a tapered scratch awl to set the ignition switch after it came loose a few weeks ago. Intermittent problems suck to diagnose without throwing parts at it. I would try disconnecting the battery and do a continuity check, working your way up or down the circuit. Put the negative end of the multimeter where the power comes into the fuse panel from the engine bay, and you could start with the purple wire going to the starter solenoid. Turn the key to start and see if it continually has a connection at start, and work your way back to find the point that it is no longer intermittent. If it's at the neutral switch you may have to play with the shifter or the rod on the engine side of the column (if you still have a column-mounted neutral switch). Wiggle the wires if the power loss is found to be any connector, especially at the fuse panel.

Make sure that the amp will run tipped over like it would be on the divider, some of them lose cooling effectiveness if they're past perfectly vertical. A speaker amp probably won't get hot enough for it to be an issue, but it's something to keep in mind.