What did you do to your Monte Carlo today?

[jbird72]

Well here was today doesnt end..had her out been 3 months .since build started she ran prolly at 75 percent. Carb wasnt open whole way linkage deal  but wow. Nailed without downshift and head back. She gonna run any way only thing not new on build was water pump well yu guessed it leakin so git new one comn. Everything be adjusted and wiring be tidey. Almost there 

[jbird72]

Alright. So here it is, for some reason. My back of my valve covers are leakin again, y'all know everything's been done. Perfect, straight everything i'm using the blue fel pro ... My valve covers are straight ill show pic.. At first I thought it was the twisty tie Downs with your hands. So I took those off, and I just put regular nuts on still leaking through the back, does anybody here suggest? Maybe just doing a cork gasket with gasket, fill, or is it possible? Those gaskets are bad. The brand new one. Only thing, since the build that leaks little concerning

[jbird72]

[420ponies]

I have always used just a stud with washer and  bolt. Never liked the hand style twisties. ARP has those valve cover studs. Could it be between the intake and head gasket on the back rail ? have seen them seep oil out of there. Can't see an aluminum billet/cast cover leaking. I do use a cork gasket, 3m trim adhesive on valve cover, white lithium cream on gasket to head (thin coat),helps soften the cork ,so it forms a rail on the gasket. Hope this helps.

[cbolt]

I have custom valve covers that look great but have leaked since day one. I like the way they look so much that I tolerate the leaking. What I found is the valve cover isn't exactly the same shape as the cylinder head which causes a very thin spot in the back corners (the lowest spot, naturally) that only has a very thin mating surface area. I have tried the metal infused gaskets, thick cork gaskets, silicon type gaskets, gasket making material, etc. and 2 different hot rod shops without success in stopping the leaks for more than a thousand miles or so. The way I figured it out was using powdered chalk on the head and placing the valve cover on top. I did the same with a gasket and both results were the same, roughly 1/8" of actual gasket to head to cover contact area in the worst possible spot.... back corners. 

You may have the same issue. I just check my oil often and carry extra oil all the time, especially on trips.

"If it ain't leaking, its probably empty"

Like James, I don't like or trust those hand twisties. They are great for situations where you frequently remove the covers to make adjustments, but after everything is sorted take them off and put bolts in with washers if needed

[DragCat]

X3 on the twisties. Just asking, are you 100% sure it's leaking at the valve cover? Are they aluminum heads, I for one don't torque anything with aluminum. 

[madmatt9471]

Is it possible that your valve covers are not true?

If you are going to remove them, I would suggest taking a straight edge and seeing if they might be warped. 

I would do the same thing with the head surface ridge where it marries to the valve cover and make sure that it is true and straight. 

Any part that might be low, warped or untrue will let you know why it dribbling oil after being tightened down. 

Options would be to use RTV to help with the imperfections on the valve covers or a new set of covers if they are indeed warped or untrue. 

As far as the head edge goes,my suggestion would be, if low spot(s) is to try "Permatex Optimum Gray RTV" to take up some of the imperfections. Again that's if they are either warped (valve cover or low spot on head edge)

I hope this helps, at least you will be able to rule it out should they end up being straight and true, and if not then you can try a fix listed above or something else. 

Now I have to head into go get my Right Hip replaced. Ughh! 10th surgery. 😷

Thanks, Matt 

[Paul Bell]

2 hours ago, cbolt said:

I have custom valve covers that look great but have leaked since day one. I like the way they look so much that I tolerate the leaking. What I found is the valve cover isn't exactly the same shape as the cylinder head which causes a very thin spot in the back corners (the lowest spot, naturally) that only has a very thin mating surface area. I have tried the metal infused gaskets, thick cork gaskets, silicon type gaskets, gasket making material, etc. and 2 different hot rod shops without success in stopping the leaks for more than a thousand miles or so. The way I figured it out was using powdered chalk on the head and placing the valve cover on top. I did the same with a gasket and both results were the same, roughly 1/8" of actual gasket to head to cover contact area in the worst possible spot.... back corners. 

You may have the same issue. I just check my oil often and carry extra oil all the time, especially on trips.

"If it ain't leaking, its probably empty"

Like James, I don't like or trust those hand twisties. They are great for situations where you frequently remove the covers to make adjustments, but after everything is sorted take them off and put bolts in with washers if needed

 

Assuming you have aluminum covers, try the following:

Use Moroso Perm Align steel core gaskets.

Use long full threaded studs like long Allen set screws fully threaded into the heads. Use washers and nylon lock nuts.

Scuff up the valve cover and head gasket surfaces with Scotch Bright. Adhesives don't work well on smooth polished surfaces.

Coat the valve cover and head gasket surfaces with Permatex High Tack. Let both surfaces dry. High Tack is impervious to fuels, lubricants, coolants, heat cycles, a nuclear apocalypse, cats and small children. It's also the best stuff for head bolts into coolant, it'll still be there after 100,000 miles.

Re-coat the valve cover and coat one side of the gaskets. Apply them to the valve covers.

Re-coat the cylinder heads and coat the gaskets.

Put on the covers, tighten real good, don't start the engine for 24 hours.

Re-tighten the nuts a little more.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93020

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/set-screws/set-screws-2~/thread-size~1-4-20/length~2/length~1-3-4/fastener-head-type~headless/tip-type~flat/0

 

 

[jbird72]

1 hour ago, Paul Bell said:

 

Assuming you have aluminum covers, try the following:

Use Moroso Perm Align steel core gaskets.

Use long full threaded studs like long Allen set screws fully threaded into the heads. Use washers and nylon lock nuts.

Scuff up the valve cover and head gasket surfaces with Scotch Bright. Adhesives don't work well on smooth polished surfaces.

Coat the valve cover and head gasket surfaces with Permatex High Tack. Let both surfaces dry. High Tack is impervious to fuels, lubricants, coolants, heat cycles, a nuclear apocalypse, cats and small children. It's also the best stuff for head bolts into coolant, it'll still be there after 100,000 miles.

Re-coat the valve cover and coat one side of the gaskets. Apply them to the valve covers.

Re-coat the cylinder heads and coat the gaskets.

Put on the covers, tighten real good, don't start the engine for 24 hours.

Re-tighten the nuts a little more.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93020

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/set-screws/set-screws-2~/thread-size~1-4-20/length~2/length~1-3-4/fastener-head-type~headless/tip-type~flat/0

 

 

WowWhat a pain ugg thx

[jbird72]

1 hour ago, Paul Bell said:

 

Assuming you have aluminum covers, try the following:

Use Moroso Perm Align steel core gaskets.

Use long full threaded studs like long Allen set screws fully threaded into the heads. Use washers and nylon lock nuts.

Scuff up the valve cover and head gasket surfaces with Scotch Bright. Adhesives don't work well on smooth polished surfaces.

Coat the valve cover and head gasket surfaces with Permatex High Tack. Let both surfaces dry. High Tack is impervious to fuels, lubricants, coolants, heat cycles, a nuclear apocalypse, cats and small children. It's also the best stuff for head bolts into coolant, it'll still be there after 100,000 miles.

Re-coat the valve cover and coat one side of the gaskets. Apply them to the valve covers.

Re-coat the cylinder heads and coat the gaskets.

Put on the covers, tighten real good, don't start the engine for 24 hours.

Re-tighten the nuts a little more.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93020

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/set-screws/set-screws-2~/thread-size~1-4-20/length~2/length~1-3-4/fastener-head-type~headless/tip-type~flat/0

 

 

I really hate to have to get new gaskets. I want to get this thing running.

You don't think it'll work with these fall pros with the steel core in it. If I do the same deal

[jbird72]

4 hours ago, 420ponies said:

I have always used just a stud with washer and  bolt. Never liked the hand style twisties. ARP has those valve cover studs. Could it be between the intake and head gasket on the back rail ? have seen them seep oil out of there. Can't see an aluminum billet/cast cover leaking. I do use a cork gasket, 3m trim adhesive on valve cover, white lithium cream on gasket to head (thin coat),helps soften the cork ,so it forms a rail on the gasket. Hope this helps.

I think i'm gonna try that because I can get those cork one's anywhere that seems like the thing to do. If I want to get this ready for Thursday or Friday. I mean, it's drivable leaking, I just put all this money into it and time, and I really don't want it to leak

[Scott S.]

Stamped steel (and chrome covered) valve covers have a tendency to warp over time..... That might be something you'd want to take into account. 

[jbird72]

2 hours ago, Scott S. said:

Stamped steel (and chrome covered) valve covers have a tendency to warp over time..... That might be something you'd want to take into account. 

There  aluminun scott

[jbird72]

7 hours ago, madmatt9471 said:

Is it possible that your valve covers are not true?

If you are going to remove them, I would suggest taking a straight edge and seeing if they might be warped. 

I would do the same thing with the head surface ridge where it marries to the valve cover and make sure that it is true and straight. 

Any part that might be low, warped or untrue will let you know why it dribbling oil after being tightened down. 

Options would be to use RTV to help with the imperfections on the valve covers or a new set of covers if they are indeed warped or untrue. 

As far as the head edge goes,my suggestion would be, if low spot(s) is to try "Permatex Optimum Gray RTV" to take up some of the imperfections. Again that's if they are either warped (valve cover or low spot on head edge)

I hope this helps, at least you will be able to rule it out should they end up being straight and true, and if not then you can try a fix listed above or something else. 

Now I have to head into go get my Right Hip replaced. Ughh! 10th surgery. 😷

Thanks, Matt 

Good luck matt..yeah i did all that they are straight and heads are perfect

[madmatt9471]

6 hours ago, Paul Bell said:

 

Assuming you have aluminum covers, try the following:

Use Moroso Perm Align steel core gaskets.

Use long full threaded studs like long Allen set screws fully threaded into the heads. Use washers and nylon lock nuts.

Scuff up the valve cover and head gasket surfaces with Scotch Bright. Adhesives don't work well on smooth polished surfaces.

Coat the valve cover and head gasket surfaces with Permatex High Tack. Let both surfaces dry. High Tack is impervious to fuels, lubricants, coolants, heat cycles, a nuclear apocalypse, cats and small children. It's also the best stuff for head bolts into coolant, it'll still be there after 100,000 miles.

Re-coat the valve cover and coat one side of the gaskets. Apply them to the valve covers.

Re-coat the cylinder heads and coat the gaskets.

Put on the covers, tighten real good, don't start the engine for 24 hours.

Re-tighten the nuts a little more.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93020

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/set-screws/set-screws-2~/thread-size~1-4-20/length~2/length~1-3-4/fastener-head-type~headless/tip-type~flat/0

 

 

Lol - excellent! 

Same stuff I use, stuff is worth it's weight in gold!

Thanks,Matt 

[madmatt9471]

14 minutes ago, jbird72 said:

Good luck matt..yeah i did all that they are straight and heads are perfect

Thank you! 

Surgery was a success and Tina is taking me home now! New hip! Yay!😀

Thanks, Matt 

[jbird72]

1 hour ago, madmatt9471 said:

Thank you! 

Surgery was a success and Tina is taking me home now! New hip! Yay!😀

Thanks, Matt 

Awsome. 

[cny first gen 71]

Went to local cruise in tonight I was only first gen there but I did meet a guy that knows a guy that bought an brand new 70 monte 454 4 speed 😅

[Rob Peters]

That guy really gets around to a lot of cruises and shows in a lot of different areas.

rob

[Dtret]

I’ve met that guy. Na maybe a different guy but he knows a guy that knew a guy that had a friend who’s cousin's sisters brothers uncle bought a brand new 72 454 4 speed custom ( with a full halo top) in 1974. It was orange. 

[Leghome]

Ole Red has gotten a good clean up the last couple of days. Power Clay Bar and Polish job Tuesday and a wax job Wednesday. I cannot believe how much better it looks actually shinning with no dull spots and now my shoulders are getting stiff and sore and I still have both sides to do. and now I hit a button to hide all signatures that I did not want to hit and cannot figger out how to undo it LOL

[Rob Peters]

18 hours ago, Dtret said:

I’ve met that guy. Na maybe a different guy but he knows a guy that knew a guy that had a friend who’s cousin's sisters brothers uncle bought a brand new 72 454 4 speed custom ( with a full halo top) in 1974. It was orange. 

And it was 1 of only 2 produced that year as a convertible for a GM Executive. .

rob

[jbird72]

Well good news is valve  covers dont leak. Doesnt matter anyway .. the block fix on water jacket didnt work. She has a small crack not good. So upsetting since she ran like whole different car just now. Good news is found a .40 over 4 bolt main 1st gen  block already machined cause thats what pistons are...so now even though was proud of flat tappet. Decided to go roller since be a new build..any thoughts 

[Scott S.]

Install a fridge and microwave in the garage ????

[jbird72]

6 hours ago, Scott S. said:

Install a fridge and microwave in the garage ????

Yeah this sucks man. Fruggen cursed block. All that work..been 3 mnths..now gitta do all again...fml..figure do a newer cam ..miles well everything friggen else be new. Uggg