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Posted

Hey guys this is my first post i could really use some help,

 I bought my first classic this year (72 Monte Carlo) i'm only 23 so i don't have 30+ years of knowledge to pull from.

 

I have a small block 350 fully original to my knowledge. I recently installed a edelbrock 2101 intake and a 1406 carb. the car also has headers.

After getting it running i realized i have little to no power after about half throttle, and it also pops through the carb sounds like it happens with every rotation. It does this in park and under a load in drive but only at what i think are high rpm. (no tach). 

 

Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

 

Posted

Check your firing order on the wires first. I switched two of mine back accidentally when I replaced some things and it sounded about like that. Start simple. Then timing.

Posted

Hey 7tone,

I have check the wires already they are all in the right order.

After researching the site for a few weeks ive done that and have also swapped the carb on it thinking it was a leak at the back of the carb and the manifold, but no luck

Posted

Then I would carefully go over what you did.

I know it was already stated, but firing order 18436572

timing, What is it at?

manifold vacuum?

Posted

also verify your timing marks on the balancer match when the piston is up, Balancer could have spun...

Posted

The dizzy was also changed but i used the same cap and rotor button. Is it possible for the rotor button to be put on backwards ?

 

the timing on the dizzy is at tdc (with engine off) and the harmonic balancer has a notch in the metal that is right at the 0.

Posted

the rotor should only fit one way. It should be pointing to the wire that goes to #1 cylinder on the cap. (driver side front spark plug) and the balancer notch should be at 0 on the tab. That gets you in the ball park, you still need to time it with a timing light.

Posted

Sam is correct. You have to have it all lined up when #1 piston is on the compression stroke.

Posted

Sam, would it even start and idle/ drive good at low rpm if it was 180 out ?

 

Jason i have to go get a starting light today hopefully.

Posted

I had the same problem and mine was the Vaccuum advance. Once I fixed the vaccuum advance and re-timed it it now runs great. What kind of ignition system is it? Points and Condensor?

Posted

ok, I have to get back to work, If the timing is ok and no vacuum leaks put the old distributor back in and see what happens. I will check back later today and see how you make out. (It should not start 180 out,but stranger things have happened)

Posted

Hey guys i finally got it down to the shop, apparently its a exhaust leak where the headers meet the engine and everywhere else on the crappy exhaust system the guy before me had put on the car.

Posted

Not to sure yet, i have to pull the headers off Thursday, But i put a Q-jet on before i had the popping problem and it was stuck at WOT so it was just dumping fuel and the headers did star to get red, we turned it off and it backfired so loud the neighbors thought we were having target  practice. so i'm guessing that might have created the problem.

Posted

Hey guys i finally got it down to the shop, apparently its a exhaust leak where the headers meet the engine and everywhere else on the crappy exhaust system the guy before me had put on the car.

It's always fun finding the corners that were cut from the guy who owned the car before you.....mine had a 10 amp slow blow fuse across a 1/2 amp fuse to hide a short he didn't want me to see. The car could of started on fire when we drove it home from Denver.

Posted

Yeah some people show know honesty when it comes to selling a ride, but i got mine from somebody who wasn't a car guy anyway. all he wanted was a nice sound guess he didnt care to much about the materials.

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