GriffsMonte Posted January 13, 2015 Author Posted January 13, 2015 would the valve lash effect the movement of that valve ? And dont i have to do that while its running ? Quote
GriffsMonte Posted January 13, 2015 Author Posted January 13, 2015 also it seems as if its to tight, can that have tightened down by itself while driving ? Quote
MCfan Posted January 13, 2015 Posted January 13, 2015 If you're at zero lash on the base of the cam lobe, then you either have a bent/broken push rod, a collapsed lifter or a wiped cam lobe (or some combination of these). I'd first check the lash, then pull the push rod. If it's bad you might get by cheap and easy. If not, the cam and lifter are probably the problem. When I experienced a sudden occurrence of popping through the Quadrajet on my first 402 Monte years ago, it turned out to be a cam with several lobes wiped and the respective lifters mushroomed on the bottom end. Replacing the cam and lifters solved the problem. Quote
Malyc Posted January 13, 2015 Posted January 13, 2015 I probably do it wrong, but it's worked so far... Just tighten the rocker until you can just turn the pushrod, then give it a half turn more. The engine does need to be in a certain position to do it that way though. I -think- it's #1 tdc on the compression stroke, but I'd have to check my chilton again. Quote
GriffsMonte Posted January 13, 2015 Author Posted January 13, 2015 ok, ill have to give it a look this weekend guys, i will pull the rod to see if its bent at all and try my hand at adjusting the valve. if that doesnt work then its a new cam and lifter install for the spring. Quote
Malyc Posted January 13, 2015 Posted January 13, 2015 Just let me know if you want the one I have when you get to that point. Quote
GriffsMonte Posted January 17, 2015 Author Posted January 17, 2015 UPDATE: Ok guys so i just pulled the rod on that #2 and its straight as an arrow, also adjusted the lash since it was spinning pretty easy before i took the rocker off. i recorded it turning over and the valve still wasnt moving as much as the others. How would i determine if its a sticking valve or the cam is really going bad ? P.s. Best wife in the world told me shes getting it fixed for me for valentines day. Quote
Sam (Bones) Posted January 17, 2015 Posted January 17, 2015 UPDATE: P.s. Best wife in the world told me shes getting it fixed for me for valentines day. holy opportunity batman!!!!! sounds like the perfect time for a complete rebuild!!!!! 1 Quote
GriffsMonte Posted January 17, 2015 Author Posted January 17, 2015 LOL sam i wish i think the budget it $1500. I already have a quote from a shop for $1062 for labor I have looked at these kits so far http://www.jegs.com/i/Lunati/638/10120701K/10002/-1?parentProductId= http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP+Cams/249/SK12-205-2/10002/-1 Do you guys have any suggestions ? i was told i should change the timing chain and gears with the cam ? Quote
GriffsMonte Posted January 17, 2015 Author Posted January 17, 2015 http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP+Cams/249/SK12-205-2/10002/-1 Quote
GriffsMonte Posted January 17, 2015 Author Posted January 17, 2015 http://www.jegs.com/i/Lunati/638/10120701K/10002/-1?parentProductId= Quote
Sam (Bones) Posted January 17, 2015 Posted January 17, 2015 most certainly change the timing chain and gears! I recommend to everybody that does a cam change to pony-up and go with a hydraulic roller cam, it ain't cheap but worth every penny! it will pay for itself a couple of times over if you lose another camp lobe, today's oils with the lack of zinc, I refuse to build another engine without using a roller cam remember the old Fram commercial...you can pay me now, or you can pay me later! I even used a roller in my basically stock 350 in my 4 speed, no worries about cam break-in don't forget to buy the proper valve springs for whatever cam you buy!!! Quote
mikenewman Posted January 18, 2015 Posted January 18, 2015 if is down that far change gears and chain. the water pump if you have not replaced it in a few years. Quote
GriffsMonte Posted February 7, 2015 Author Posted February 7, 2015 UPDATE: So id thought id give a quick update, the monte "Diane" will be hitting the shop on monday. If everything goes as planned i should have a vid of her rebirth next weekend Quote
Bluemalibu Posted February 7, 2015 Posted February 7, 2015 Another area to have them address is the accelerator pump. Your issues (aside of the cam lobe concerns) are pretty classic for our old iron. The pump cup dries out and loses the seal against the carb. Mashing the go pedal then leans the mixture out too much. You get the "pop" and she falls on her nose off of the line. Doug ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Quote
Rob Peters Posted February 8, 2015 Posted February 8, 2015 Beautiful Engine Compartment Doug!!!! Rob Quote
D.E Posted February 8, 2015 Posted February 8, 2015 Pull 1 plug wire at a time with engine running and you will tell what cylinder is missing Quote
Bluemalibu Posted February 8, 2015 Posted February 8, 2015 Thanks so much, Rob. As of yesterday though, my garage looks like an IED went off, blowing bits of my shiny car all over it! As usual, any change that I make to the car triggers a cascade of revisions to other parts.... I decided that I wanted to relocate the battery to the trunk to ease a little of the weight off of the nose of the car. So, I pulled the rear seats to run 2/0 welding cable through the floor pan and along the inside of the frame rail. With the seats out, I thought that this would be the perfect time to run new speakers and speaker cable as well; along with new side glass. When I pulled the dash pad off to install the speakers, I was dismayed with the condition of the balance of the wiring... so I pulled the rest of the dash board and began rewiring the entire interior. With the dash off, what better time to pull the steering column as well, and install the new tilt column for the car. AND, why not take advantage of the dash being apart to order the new Classic Auto A/C that I had had my eye on! The new A/C dictated that I pull the accessories and cooling off of the motor to install a March Performance serpentine kit in order to mount the compressor and to replace the Philadelphia Racing electric water pump with a new Victor pump. I also had to install an A/C condenser for the new A/C, but I had no room left after installing a 26" cast aluminum oil-to-air heat exchanger for the new 4L80E transmission... so, I pulled the radiator and redesigned the lower radiator support, in order to mount the condenser inside the header panel instead of in front of it. And, because I was moving the radiator anyway, why not use this opportunity to add a spin-off trans filter to the -8 AN trans lines and to install a large Caterpillar oil-to-water heat exchanger into the lower radiator hose in lieu of the small in-tank trans cooler. The A/C lines needed to be run behind the inner fenders to keep them out of sight, so I pulled them off, only to find that the inner surface of the fenders themselves hadn't been painted when the frame was powder-coated, so that has to be addressed new as well... Aaarghhhh!!!!! Make it stop!!!! Quote
GriffsMonte Posted February 13, 2015 Author Posted February 13, 2015 I had the shop guys do a leak-down and all is good with my valves and they confirmed the bad cam, so i ended up going with the edelbrock performer plus hydraulic flat tappet cam, hopefully the shop can have it in and running by hump day next week. Quote
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