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Posted

I am going to be replacing my front rotors with drilled and slotted rotors. The question I have for anyone here is as far as the brake pads go would you use the original organic type or would you go to a ceramic or semi metallic?

John S

Posted

Power stop! Great stuff. They make a kit with the pads and rotors. My son has them on his 71 Monte and his 69 GTO. I have them on my daily, 2010 Sierra and highly recommend.

Posted

I used power stop on the monte seem to work well. I used Detroit axel on my truck they also work well. Kit comes with rotors and carbon fiber ceramic pads and hardware. I did replace the calipers on mine too with stock new ones. A little bit of break in time was required but so far there working very well.

20200110_123307.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
57 minutes ago, MC1of80 said:

Power stop! Great stuff. They make a kit with the pads and rotors. My son has them on his 71 Monte and his 69 GTO. I have them on my daily, 2010 Sierra and highly recommend.

I know This type of rotor there is a difference between right and left side correct? And are they stamped left and right Also did you use the Z 23 rotors or the Z 26 seems as though the Z 26 are the better ones just curious what you used. I looked on power stops’ site and it showed how to tell the difference but I’m still curious which ones you used.

Posted

My son has the  z23s on his cars and my truck has the z26s for towing. The rotors have a sticker on them stating which side they go on. 

Posted

 Thanks for your help I think the Z 23’s will work just fine and be a nice upgrade.

  • Like 2
Posted

If you haven't purchased yet, slotted is OK, drilled only makes the rotors lighter (less mass to absorb braking heat) and don't help in braking. Some crack around the holes. Race cars pretty much stopped using drilled rotors.

Posted

I also used power stop brakes on my 07 Chevy pickup 2500 hd,08 1ton 15 passenger van and will be installing them on my 63 Catalina. Worked great on all of them and the best part No Brake Dust !!

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

One more question regarding these power stop brakes installed the rotors and the pads they will not go on the rotor with the caliper pushed all the way back is it acceptable to take those shims off that seems to be the only way they will go on other than sanding pads down which doesn’t sound like a good idea

John S

Posted

On my 72 I never had any problems installing the Power Stop pads and rotors. Now they were a snug fit but after talking to some friends they seemed to think there would be no problem and there has not been.

Posted
Just now, Leghome said:

On my 72 I never had any problems installing the Power Stop pads and rotors. Now they were a snug fit but after talking to some friends they seemed to think there would be no problem and there has not been.

I have original calipers I got them from Leo rebuilt them I just don’t believe that the calipers should be hammered on to mount them on the rotors. When I first bought the car the pads on the car were riveted there were no shims on them. The next set of brakes I bought from Napa were riveted pads and they had the shims on them. Right now I don’t see any other option I just wanted to know if anyone else had the same issue I do

Posted

Removal of the shims is what my son had to do to both of his cars. Make sure to coat the back of the pads, where the shim was with "disc brake quiet" or similar product. The shim is an anti- rattle/squeak shim. 

Posted
11 minutes ago, MC1of80 said:

Removal of the shims is what my son had to do to both of his cars. Make sure to coat the back of the pads, where the shim was with "disc brake quiet" or similar product. The shim is an anti- rattle/squeak shim. 

Right I knew that’s why they were in there but previously with other brake pads I’ve never had to remove them. I have some brake silicone type lube that I could put a thin coating on the back of the pads and I think that would work. What do you think?

Posted

Mine wouldn't go on either but the piston wouldn't go back all the way so I replaced them. The first few stops may feel a little spongy but once they seat in you'll like them.

Posted
9 minutes ago, cny first gen 71 said:

Mine wouldn't go on either but the piston wouldn't go back all the way so I replaced them. The first few stops may feel a little spongy but once they seat in you'll like them.

OK I’m hoping so.

Posted

I followed Power Stops break in procedure to the letter per my son in-law as he has used Power Stop before

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I agree with the others who have given a thumbs-up to PowerStop. I've used PowerStop on several cars although not on my Monte Carlo. They work very well and the ceramic pads produce almost no brake dust. 

Posted

As soon as I build up a little ambition I’ll get it back on the road and see how they work. A little cold and wet right now.

John S

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I got my Power  Stop brakes and rotors on, bedded them in according to their instructions and the brakes have definitely improved. I always felt that something was wrong with them. I had GM rotors on the car date code F192, June 1972. The surface looked heat hardened, or work hardened and with less than a minimum thickness of .965. I used to work on these cars in the late 70’s to mid 80’s and I know I don’t have the knowledge that many people on this site have, but something always seemed wrong and now with the Power Stop rotors and brakes it is considerably better. On another note I also got rid of the hesitation or bog at full throttle on the Quadra jet. I made some adjustments as per Cliff Ruggles book on Quadra jet‘s and I have gotten rid of the bad hesitation when I nail it. Sometimes there is a very very slight hesitation when I floor it if the RPM is too low but I can live with that, just keep the rpm up and it takes off great. I wish I had that knowledge years ago. It also roasts the tires pretty good on a 3400 RPM clutch dump.

John S

  • Like 4
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Let me guess: You tightened the spring tension on the secondary air valves?

 

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