coolant leak

[Crom Cruach]

Coolant leak after a spirited drive! I just changed the coolant this morning but I only opened the drain at the bottom of the radiator, not the engine ones, so it's not perfectly clean. when I refilled I was expecting to add 4 gallons, but it only took around 2 gallons, obviously the system wasn't drained fully. I had concentrate so I added the distilled water first, so my mix is off, could this explain it? probably too much water in there.

or is it possible I just overfilled it and its escaping faster than the overflow tube can handle?

I associate an overheating car with a blown head gasket. the car was warm after doing timing, and I only drove around 10 miles but I was gunning it in L1 from the lights and all that!

https://youtube.com/shorts/CzV9xVQfLqk?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/MRueDrZQr9Y?feature=share

 

 

 

[MC1of80]

Did you "burp" the system? Could just be air bound. 

[Dtret]

You have disturbed the beast and made him mad. The video stops before you can see the engine side of the radiator. Could be a hose clamp and it spraying or popped a hole in the radiator. Couldn’t really tell. 

[cny first gen 71]

Could be just over full but I think I would do a complete flush and get the proper mix of coolant in there. Of course I'd probably pressure test the system first and if you haven't yet change the thermostat. But that's just me.

[Grant MacPherson]

never burped a big block, too hard to hold and pat!

[DragCat]

14 hours ago, Dtret said:

You have disturbed the beast and made him mad. The video stops before you can see the engine side of the radiator. Could be a hose clamp and it spraying or popped a hole in the radiator. Couldn’t really tell. 

Yea, the video isnt the best lol, doesn't look live anything out of the overflow tube. Could be the lower radiator hose/clamp, looks like the rad support could be filled with water too. 

[Scott S.]

A weak cap, sticky thermostat, trapped air, plugged heater.... all these things could be the cause.

Like Steve says, flush the whole system to make sure...

Most parts stores will sell you a kit with a "T" that you add to the hearer hose. Then just hook up the garden hose and let it run a while. 

Might want to change the thermostat as well. ( I went through three of them before getting one that worked  )

[Crom Cruach]

Yeah sorry the video is rubbish because I not ashamed to admit I was afraid of getting a face full of boiling coolant! I think I’ll do it again properly this time

[Scott S.]

Prestone makes a kit with a nozzle that will direct the discharge out of the radiator fill spout. 

[Crom Cruach]

I actually think it was coming out of the aftermarket cap, if you look closely at the 2nd crap video! Are the parts place original spec worth $40? Seems expensive!

[Scott S.]

I see that, (took a second look.)

I went with an aftermarket cap without the relief valve and a 20 lb. release pressure made by Moroso. 

I'd read that the relief valve caps can have problems.

[Scott S.]

$26 Canadian at Summit Racing.

[Scott S.]

Aren't old cars fun ??? LOL..

[Crom Cruach]

Nice, have to rethink this. I thought a few gallons of goop and I’m done, but no, snowball has something to say!

[Scott S.]

Nope..... You'll get to know every nut, bolt, wire and problem like the back of your hand.

[Scott S.]

And spend your kid's inheritance in the process........

[MC1of80]

Did you "burp" the cooling system? Even with a quality cap, if you didn't burp the cooling system, to will overpower the pressure relief valve. 

[Crom Cruach]

1 hour ago, MC1of80 said:

Did you "burp" the cooling system? Even with a quality cap, if you didn't burp the cooling system, to will overpower the pressure relief valve. 

I did not, sorry to ask another newbie question, but how do you burp the big boy?

[MC1of80]

With the radiator cap off, fill the radiator. Start the car, with the heat on and get it to operating temp. At which time the thermostat should open, coolant will go down. Fill coolant to top, put cap back on and you should be good to go. The thermostat must open at designated temp. ie 160, 180 degrees. 

Some coolant may overflow briefly when the thermostat opens. 

[Crom Cruach]

Thanks. Just ordered a spill free funnel to help get the air out. I’d say I put the cap back on before the thermostat kicked in - that’s why I didn’t get the system properly clean. 

[MC1of80]

Agreed. You don't need any special or fancy funnel. The key is the thermostat opening before topping the coolant off and putting the radiator cap on. 

[Dtret]

Also make sure the radiator cap is the highest point of the cooling system. Another words park uphill not downhill. Air will draw to the highest point. 

[John S]

I took the advice of one of our members here, Sam “Bones”, and he stated it helps to drill a 3/16 inch hole in the flange of the thermostat I have done that and have never had any issues with air lock.

John S

[MC1of80]

3 minutes ago, John S said:

I took the advice of one of our members here, Sam “Bones”, and he stated it helps to drill a 3/16 inch hole in the flange of the thermostat I have done that and have never had any issues with air lock.

John S

Great trick! I do it to all thermostats that I change. I did not mention it here due to Paul not changing his at this time. 

Definitely helps the "air bound" and necessity to burp the system even though I still do to make sure. 

[Crom Cruach]

Ok Haynes says 195° thermostat. What brand thermostat are you guys using, and what sealant?

do you use a chemical flush? The old coolant is pretty black.

dumb bonus question - should the fan be on heater / hi / hot like in this photo?