TDC and Fuel Pump Questions

[curtish57]

Hi All, 

For initial fire first run break in how do you establish TDC with the valve covers on. TDC is when the 1 cylinder exhaust valve has just begun to open. Is that correct? Also are there any sources you know of or have used that is a good checklist to run through before first run? I found a procedure on an old Chevelle forum that seemed pretty good but I always want more info and tips. 

The fuel questions I have is in this crudely marked up photo. Right at the red arrow there could be a stainless fuel filter that I got from summit that either came with the Holley fuel rail and gauge or I bought it at the same time I can't remember, either way I am wondering if it is necessary, as you can see I opted not because it sticks way out and looks goofy plus I have a decent quality clear one right where the supply hard line meets the rubber. I didn't get it in this pic but it's there. Do I need two? Would it hurt having two? I thought it could potentially just because of fuel restriction but idk. I am not that experienced and as I said I scraped because of mostly vanity and convenience. 

Now 2nd and perhaps dumb question lol. I planed or thought about installing a little electric fuel pump in the approximate location where that yellow blob bug looking thing on my pic would go. Pipe it in series with with the mechanical for backup in case of failure and wire it to a simple switch, also installing it would allow me to prime the fuel system as in pressurize ahead of starting to check for leaks and ensure quick fuel delivery on start. Is this a good idea, bad idea, unnecessary?? What about just using the electric to prime it up to the mechanical and not install it. I initially bought it to use it as just a convenient pump to use around the shop when needed but then thought of this. 

Thanks!

[jft69z]

Top dead center will have both valves closed. Real easy way to check is a dog toy whistle rigged up in some rubber hose, installed the #1 cylinder spark plug hole. As you slowly turn the engine over by hand, the whistle will sing as you come up to TDC on the harmonic balancer timing mark. Easy, and it works. Realistically, you have 2 chances to get it right. Either you'll have the TDC mark at the #1 cylinder, or the #6 cylinder if you're one revolution off. 

Pre-lubing the oil pump is always a good idea on a first run, before installing your distributor. Filling up the carb bowls with fuel first (thru the vent tubes at the air horn) helps it to fire off quicker, than waiting for the fuel pump to fill it up. A squeeze type bottle with fuel is perfect here.

Be careful with those clear type fuel filters. If they break/shatter, possible fire.

You can't use the electric fuel pump as you're suggesting. Trying to pull fuel with the original mechanical pump, won't go through the electric pump if it's off. Also, electric pumps are designed more to be 'pushers' than 'pullers'. Meaning, it should be mounted close to the fuel tank in the rear, also as low as practical (below fuel level). A good fuel filter back there would be a ideal too.

[DragCat]

8 hours ago, jft69z said:

Pre-lubing the oil pump is always a good idea on a first run, before installing your distributor. Filling up the carb bowls with fuel first (thru the vent tubes at the air horn) helps it to fire off quicker, than waiting for the fuel pump to fill it up. A squeeze type bottle with fuel is perfect here.

 

I'd say the pre-lube is a must IMHO.

Also remember, if there was NO water/coolant in the block, there may be air pockets in the system.

[curtish57]

15 hours ago, jft69z said:

Top dead center will have both valves closed. Real easy way to check is a dog toy whistle rigged up in some rubber hose, installed the #1 cylinder spark plug hole. As you slowly turn the engine over by hand, the whistle will sing as you come up to TDC on the harmonic balancer timing mark. Easy, and it works. Realistically, you have 2 chances to get it right. Either you'll have the TDC mark at the #1 cylinder, or the #6 cylinder if you're one revolution off. 

Pre-lubing the oil pump is always a good idea on a first run, before installing your distributor. Filling up the carb bowls with fuel first (thru the vent tubes at the air horn) helps it to fire off quicker, than waiting for the fuel pump to fill it up. A squeeze type bottle with fuel is perfect here.

Be careful with those clear type fuel filters. If they break/shatter, possible fire.

You can't use the electric fuel pump as you're suggesting. Trying to pull fuel with the original mechanical pump, won't go through the electric pump if it's off. Also, electric pumps are designed more to be 'pushers' than 'pullers'. Meaning, it should be mounted close to the fuel tank in the rear, also as low as practical (below fuel level). A good fuel filter back there would be a ideal too.

Thank you for the breakdown on the TDC I will use that. I have a primer and planned to pre-lube, I have a primer bottle to fill the bowls as well. I appreciate the advice on the pump as well, I will scrap that idea and make my life a lot simpler. 

[curtish57]

7 hours ago, DragCat said:

I'd say the pre-lube is a must IMHO.

Also remember, if there was NO water/coolant in the block, there may be air pockets in the system.

I was planning to run it initially with the rad cap off and check/add as it burps and goes down. Probably by 5 - 10 mins reinstall and continue with the rest of the break in. Would that work? 

[DragCat]

5 hours ago, curtish57 said:

I was planning to run it initially with the rad cap off and check/add as it burps and goes down. Probably by 5 - 10 mins reinstall and continue with the rest of the break in. Would that work? 

I was always told when burping, elevate the front and turn on the heater. 

When I installed the crate I drilled a couple of holes in the thermostat too on the initial start up 

 

[Dtret]

As long as the rad cap is the highest point on the cooling system you’re good. ( like Mark said) Be careful if you run it at break in rpm you might have coolant spillage. 

[Scott S.]

The Prestone flushing tee installed in the heater hose also works to help letting the air out.... It can be a bit messy, but a catch can helps. 

And yes, make sure the heater controls are open. 

[curtish57]

I am bypassing the heater core altogether, how should I burb it out in that case?

[Dtret]

Radiator cap. Make sure it’s the highest point. 

[Scott S.]

Mark's idea about a hole in the thermostat are probably the best solution for letting air out of the block..... Something in the 3/32" to 1/8" range. 

[Leghome]

I use a 1/8th bit