Dtret Posted May 13 Posted May 13 I don’t have any but make sure that you save the original one for the Vigilite pattern. Quote
halogrinder Posted May 13 Author Posted May 13 hopefully I find another (original) one, ya? I'd hate to pull the easy button and buy a repro. I'm sure it's not as good as the original, just like my stupid ford truck sheetmetal endeavor I just went through lol Quote
halogrinder Posted May 13 Author Posted May 13 dang, I have to remember these dudes again. I'm terrible remembering stuff like this! I really need to get my [censored] in gear. bodyshop is killing me in progress- I haven't even touched the drivetrain! Quote
Dtret Posted May 13 Posted May 13 From what I’m told the aftermarket ones work but take a lot of work to get there. And if you do go that route look at them very close when delivered. I know people that got beat up panels 3&4 times. Quote
halogrinder Posted May 25 Author Posted May 25 I need to get my act in gear. So, yesterday I took the boat anchor out. Maybe I can use the exhaust pieces for the engine dyno- so I kept those cut offs for now. Getting the nuts off the exhaust manifolds- I LOVE using this. It's an induction heater. no flames, and works extremely well. no broken studs and all the nuts came off by hand. The illustrious sheet metal heater thing on the passenger side exhaust manifold In great shape, not rotted. It'll clean up nicely. Driver's exhaust manifold needs to be replaced- ears were broken off. side note- no exhaust gaskets were on either exhaust manifold 😕 Got this 50lb of a/c off- heavily considering going to a more modern air compressor for the efficiency/weight savings and overall better a/c performance. Thoughts vs keeping this set up (other than aesthetics)- the A6 compressors are known to leak out the nose seal, and aren't super efficient vs the typical Sanden compressor (like I have on my red truck in the background) 3 Quote
halogrinder Posted May 25 Author Posted May 25 The oil filter was still primed lol Need a new oil pan. this thing is hammered. Leaks. dented. Bottm end looks pretty typical with wear. cam is wore all funky- to be expected. Nothing exciting going on the top end either. other than the hydraulic lifters bled down- everything was to be expected. Wrecked my balancer puller lol machine shop can mess with that now lol 1 1 Quote
70white402 Posted May 25 Posted May 25 i would leave the original a/c setup any weight savings will not be noticed and if the car was ever sold it would help sell it to the purist. Quote
jft69z Posted May 25 Posted May 25 6 hours ago, halogrinder said: Got this 50lb of a/c off- heavily considering going to a more modern air compressor for the efficiency/weight savings and overall better a/c performance. Thoughts vs keeping this set up (other than aesthetics)- the A6 compressors are known to leak out the nose seal, and aren't super efficient vs the typical Sanden compressor (like I have on my red truck in the background) I'd recommend a S6 compressor. Physically bolts in place of the A6, uses the same brackets, hose manifold, etc., BUT has Sanden internals. That means it'll be a lot more efficient, won't leak, and will work nice with R134A. I just put one in a car recently, with a parallel flow condenser (more efficient, bolts in place of stock unit). Temps at the center duct nearly spit out ice cubes. (It was a cooler day when I charged it, but it'll still be fine when it's hot). My car with a sanden & R134 typically will run 36 degrees duct, when it's 90 ambient. With an A6, stock condenser, and R134, best I can usually get is in the high 40's - low 50's range at center duct, when converted to R134 (that's with everything flushed out too). If you want to clean it up a bit, you can always run the hoses up under the core support, instead of draping across the engine, but that involves some custom hose work. Worth the time and expense though. Below pic is in the mock-up stage. S6, painted black: 4 Quote
420ponies Posted May 26 Posted May 26 This could be in the works for mine. Joe, you look like it's an easy job for you, add me to the list and when you can squeeze me in! 2 Quote
420ponies Posted May 26 Posted May 26 So, what's for the rebuild ? I have some thoughts for it. Are those heads from the year'69? Quote
halogrinder Posted May 26 Author Posted May 26 2 hours ago, 420ponies said: So, what's for the rebuild ? I have some thoughts for it. Are those heads from the year'69? Hydraulic roller cam with everything else up for discussion. Exterior wise it'll be stock looking with stock Intake/exhaust manifolds. No idea. 1 Quote
420ponies Posted May 27 Posted May 27 (edited) I'd like to know the cylinder head casting numbers.If it's just getting rebuilt ,a nice hydraulic roller cam would wake it up. Maybe a '70's aluminum intake also. You can paint it to match the engine. My 427 has '69 closed chamber heads( last 3 digits...290),oval port, off a corvette with factory manifolds for better low end torque. Has a .467"/.478" lift hydraulic roller cam. They do make a "cheater" style valve cover,looks stock (chrome),but higher to clear the roller rocker.These are used because of the over the nose valve spring pressure these cams use. Edited May 27 by 420ponies added content 1 Quote
420ponies Posted May 27 Posted May 27 Those are the same as mine. Good set of cylinder heads in my book. Good for low bottom end torque. 2 Quote
halogrinder Posted July 13 Author Posted July 13 engine dropped off at machine shop. trans rebuilt. 2K stall converter used. bought a edelbrock performer intake, had the Quadrajet rebuilt by S&S carburetors here in Houston (Alan is the GUY when it comes to carbs), snagged another oil pan since this one was wasted, and some Headman Headers. paint shop doing things too 13 Quote
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