383 Crate swap into my 72

[FairlyRandom]

Thanks fellas. 

Can anyone confirm the alternator amperage from the factory? Can anyone confirm the wire gage for the power wire coming off the factory alternator? I think those are the main questions preventing me from clicking "order now".

The unit i want to put in requires a 6 gage power wire per the manufacturer, but I'm not sure how big the wire in place now is.

[Dtret]

Depending on how it was built usually a 30 or a 63. I’m not sure of the gauge but I’m thinking 10. 

[FairlyRandom]

Yeah, it's definitely smaller than 6...10 is probably right. So, I'm likely going to go with a 50 amp and try to paint it vs tear apart my wiring harness to replace the wire coming off the alt.

[Dtret]

I would do the alternator if it tested close to bad on the bench it’s not worth screwing with. Get the number off your original alternator please I may need it. Good or bad. My 72 needs one and if it’s original it may have the correct number. Thanks 

[FairlyRandom]

That's part of the problem - the alternator in there now has essentially no P/N showing anywhere on it. No label indicating the manufacturer, no serial number, nothing.

[Dtret]

12 minutes ago, FairlyRandom said:

That's part of the problem - the alternator in there now has essentially no P/N showing anywhere on it. No label indicating the manufacturer, no serial number, nothing.

That’s pretty normal for a 53 year old car. It’s been replaced, probably several times. Most remans have had the number shaved so the cases can be used in anything, without false identification. New wouldn’t have any numbers. Can’t blame a guy for trying. Thanks. 

[7tonemonte]

5 hours ago, Dtret said:

I would do the alternator if it tested close to bad on the bench it’s not worth screwing with. Get the number off your original alternator please I may need it. Good or bad. My 72 needs one and if it’s original it may have the correct number. Thanks 

Dennis, would the original alternator be the same from my71 or are you looking for date coded correct?  I have the one I pulled off my car years ago saved in the shed I can check the numbers on it if you’d like
   

[Dtret]

4 minutes ago, 7tonemonte said:

Dennis, would the original alternator be the same from my71 or are you looking for date coded correct?  I have the one I pulled off my car years ago saved in the shed I can check the numbers on it if you’d like
   

Different than 72 but , I haven’t looked, I’ll bet the 71 DC car needs one. If you get around to it , no rush. Thanks Tony. 

[FairlyRandom]

Just to close the loop in case this is helpful intel for folks, I started looking at the instructions and other docs related to the various alternator options I was looking at, and noticed gage requirements by output for different amperage alternators in one of the docs. 

I settled on a 10si case option in a 70 amp output. It's not black, but maybe a rattle can of high heat Rust-Oleum will be employed. According to Powermaster, they state that a 10GA power wire at 4' or shorter is acceptable for 85a and under. THIS LINK WILL DOWNLOAD A PDF WITH THEIR WIRING RECOMMENDATIONS. As far as I can tell, the power wire in my car is indeed 10GA (.16" with housing, verified with calipers), so I should be all good.

I've also settled on THIS DURALAST BATTERY to go with it. 

If anyone sees anything that looks out of whack with this plan, please let me know. As of yet, no wrenches have been turned.

[Dtret]

I don’t know what the EFB stands for on the battery, my preference of battery would be AC Delco. But I’m kinda biased on that. 

[Leghome]

16 hours ago, Dtret said:

I don’t know what the EFB stands for on the battery, my preference of battery would be AC Delco. But I’m kinda biased on that. 

How many of those batteries have you handled in the past year 

[Dtret]

1 hour ago, Leghome said:

How many of those batteries have you handled in the past year 

In general of all part numbers or just the 78 series?

[Leghome]

Both

[FairlyRandom]

21 hours ago, Dtret said:

I don’t know what the EFB stands for on the battery, my preference of battery would be AC Delco. But I’m kinda biased on that. 

From AutoZone site: "Duralast Platinum EFB (Enhanced Flooded Battery) ...A reinforced retainer, full-frame positive grid and thicker negative grid resist corrosion and extend battery life

-1.5 times the cycle life of conventional batteries

-Proprietary carbon additive for faster recharge that increases battery life

-Greater vibration resistance and enhanced durability"

 

Mostly, it has a 3 year full replacement warranty vs 2 years on lower models

[FairlyRandom]

On 5/12/2025 at 4:30 PM, Dtret said:

That’s pretty normal for a 53 year old car. It’s been replaced, probably several times. Most remans have had the number shaved so the cases can be used in anything, without false identification. New wouldn’t have any numbers. Can’t blame a guy for trying. Thanks. 

I lied. After pulling the failing alt, I found stamped numbers in the case I missed before as they were covered by the mounting bracket.

There's a lot of paint on this case, so the numbers aren't super clear, but it's a Delco-Remy unit, and has "1102463 61" and on a separate line "2CI", or possibly "2C1" and then illegible stampings after that.

Not sure if it's worth having it remanned?

Hope this info helps someone out there

Edited May 16 by FairlyRandom

[Leghome]

61 AMP case but if it has been rebuilt that may not be the case. 1102463 is a legit Declo Remy part number. I assemblemed and rebuilt them at one time during my employment.

[Dtret]

Original alternator. 2C1 -  1972 March 1st week. It’s worth having rebuilt if you’re trying to keep it original. It’s probably more valuable as a bad unit than it is as a core return. 

[FairlyRandom]

Thanks for the details fellas!

[NavyCPO]

On 9/19/2024 at 10:56 PM, FairlyRandom said:

 

 

Looks Sweet, Sounds Sweet!  But probably pretty NASTY!!!!  LOL

[NavyCPO]

On 9/19/2024 at 10:56 PM, FairlyRandom said:

 

 

Looks Sweet, Sounds Sweet!  But probably pretty NASTY!!!!  LOL

[NavyCPO]

10 hours ago, FairlyRandom said:

I lied. After pulling the failing alt, I found stamped numbers in the case I missed before as they were covered by the mounting bracket.

There's a lot of paint on this case, so the numbers aren't super clear, but it's a Delco-Remy unit, and has "1102463 61" and on a separate line "2CI", or possibly "2C1" and then illegible stampings after that.

Not sure if it's worth having it remanned?

Hope this info helps someone out there

There's not really much to these alternators.  If the bearings are still good, you used to be able to get a brush kit and a regulator kit and they're easy to rebuild.  When I was young and REALLY POOR, LOL I'd clean up the armature, put new brushes and a regulator kit and reassemble and ready to rock n roll. Worked great, last long time.  But I get it, for the money these days a new alternator with fresh bearings, brushes and regulator and a shiny new case it's probably worth it and easier just to replace it.  Just sayin''''''''''''''''

[cbolt]

If I was a "stock" guy I would sure rebuild my alternator as well. Its fairly easy and inexpensive. I know a few places here that still sell the parts to do the job yourself. As I recall the hardest part is removing the pulley.

[Leghome]

When I had Ole Reds rebuilt I went to a one wire and it cost me $35.00 and found out it was putting out almost 90 amps

[NavyCPO]

On 5/17/2025 at 5:13 AM, cbolt said:

If I was a "stock" guy I would sure rebuild my alternator as well. Its fairly easy and inexpensive. I know a few places here that still sell the parts to do the job yourself. As I recall the hardest part is removing the pulley.

That's what I recall too, pulley removal was a booger.  Don't remember how I used to do it but somehow got it done.

[cbolt]

5 hours ago, NavyCPO said:

That's what I recall too, pulley removal was a booger.  Don't remember how I used to do it but somehow got it done.

I now have a pulley puller. If there is a "tool for that", I likely have it.