Window Switches pulling out of door panel-bad backing board

[Mike]

So I pulled the door panel off to see what the issue was. Looks like the panel board that the door material is mounted to was just old and coming apart. The cover material was in great shape so I didnt want to remove it all. I found some .025" thick aluminum (in the junk pile I never throw anything away) and cut a new backer plate for the switch. She sits in there solid as a rock. I would have used a different metal if i had any around. The aluminum is soft but in that thickness it works well and it works well. And its easy to cut with a sabre saw. Also, had to drill some holes and screw the plate down between two pieces of wood so I could get the saw around. I used the "sleeve" that the switch pushes into (last pic) as a template and just traced around it. Then drew the same shape again inside so i could get the tightest fit possible in the old panel. 

[Dtret]

Great outside the box thinking. Well done. 

[Michael Boyte]

Excellent idea 👍 

[Marks71]

Looks like that’ll never be an issue again.

[willie]

Mike that's a fantastic idea, and looks like it will work great!!!  Can't blame you for not wanting to change the cards as the panels look like there in great shape also!!!

[Mike]

So i went a little further down the rabbit hole LOL. Having a hard time understanding the assembly. Tell me if i am wrong, but it looks to me like the bakelite board that holds the contacts and harness will nest into the rocker switch assembly. But i dont see anything that would keep it in there. So this clip in the attached picture must be doing that. I have the chassis service manual but could find nothing on this. It looks like i should push the harness thru the door hole, assemble the switch with this clip, and then press the whole assembly back into the door ring that i backed with that plate. It doesnt seem all that substantial. So i am wondering if a part is missing? I did find a round hard piece of plastic in the bottom of the door but that turned out to be where the window settles at the bottom of the door. Nothing else in there. I thought i paid close attention to taking it apart, but since it was already wonky I might not know an important step here.

Does anyone have a diagram or procedure for installing this switch into the panel? Thank you. 

[jft69z]

Friction fit, snaps in  and holds in at the sides with built in spring clips.

Bigger question, why does it look like there's just the bakelite board attached to the harness plug, where's the metal rocker switch part? 

The metal switch housing will friction fit into the door card bracket, but that board should be assembled as one piece with the rest of the switch housing. (unless I'm looking at it wrong).

EDIT: I just scrolled up a few posts and see the back side of your metal housing and the internals. That bakelite board is a part of that switch and appears to have separated or broken off. 

 

[Scott S.]

Inventive..... 

I'm wondering if a plastic piece might work as well. 

[Mike]

15 minutes ago, jft69z said:

Friction fit, snaps in  and holds in at the sides with built in spring clips.

Bigger question, why does it look like there's just the bakelite board attached to the harness plug, where's the metal rocker switch part? 

The metal switch housing will friction fit into the door card bracket, but that board should be assembled as one piece with the rest of the switch housing. (unless I'm looking at it wrong).

EDIT: I just scrolled up a few posts and see the back side of your metal housing and the internals. That bakelite board is a part of that switch and appears to have separated or broken off. 

AHHHHH, hmmm. I was able to get the board to kinda snap in, but the fitment is not firm enough. I'm sure it will rattle off. But what you put me onto is that harness ends in that black plug, and that plugs into the back of the bakelite that is part of the switch assembly. I thought the bakelight was part of the harness. THAT i can work with. Might just super glue it back together. When i wiggled it out the bakelite came away from the outer switches, probably loose for a while since my windows were sporadic at times. Thank you Joe. 

[jft69z]

If you look closely, there should be some little tabs cast into the switch housing, that are there to keep the circuit board captured in the assembly. You may be able to 'carefully' give the housing a little tap with a small punch at each of those locations to grab & keep that board intact. Maybe a little epoxy as well around the edge, if the above suggestion doesn't seem tight enough.

[420ponies]

You would have thought that these guys would have thought about a thicker material between the panel and the switch. Excellent thought process for this upgrade. I'm going to be doing this soon since I have way too much wind noise through the windows running down the highway.

[Mike]

53 minutes ago, jft69z said:

If you look closely, there should be some little tabs cast into the switch housing, that are there to keep the circuit board captured in the assembly. You may be able to 'carefully' give the housing a little tap with a small punch at each of those locations to grab & keep that board intact. Maybe a little epoxy as well around the edge, if the above suggestion doesn't seem tight enough.

I did notice two little...tits or something on one of the long sides, nothing on the other. Mighta broke off. I did a perimeter of super glue, and it kinda fit good without it. If it doesnt hold...its OPGI time for the $73 replacement. Thanks again Joe

 

[jft69z]

Just a note, most people around here have learned to avoid OPGI, mostly because of their stuff constantly being on back-order, plus their stupid high shipping costs occasionally. 

We've all pretty much had good luck with 'The Parts Place", SS396.com, Konicks Klassics, Eklers, etc.  

[Mike]

15 hours ago, jft69z said:

Just a note, most people around here have learned to avoid OPGI, mostly because of their stuff constantly being on back-order, plus their stupid high shipping costs occasionally. 

We've all pretty much had good luck with 'The Parts Place", SS396.com, Konicks Klassics, Eklers, etc.  

I havent had any issues with them other than i am waiting on a shifter and console. I have had good luck with Konicks and NPD. I will take a look at the others. Thank you again Joe. I have a dash project planned for next summer so that will be a bunch o parts. Whats the best place for all that stuff? Going with all new gauges, harness, etc..

[jft69z]

16 minutes ago, Mike said:

.... other than i am waiting on a shifter and console..

I have a dash project planned for next summer so that will be a bunch o parts. Whats the best place for all that stuff? Going with all new gauges, harness, etc..

As far as the dash, have you considered going with the Dakota Digital RTX package? Looks stock, but so much better, and highly adjustable for your likes. Also interfaces with EFI if you decide to do that down the road. Now is the time to do it, especially if you're pulling the dash out, and re-wiring everything anyways. Not cheap, but top notch equipment, and customer service from them.

As far as wiring harnesses, I use American Auto Wire products.

 

Dakota Digital RTX specs:

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1153/category_id=428/mode=prod/prd1153.htm

 

Summit has it in stock,:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-rtx70ccvlx?rrec=true

 

 

I sent you a PM with my phone number as well.

[Joselk1]

On 10/13/2024 at 7:58 AM, Mike said:

So I pulled the door panel off to see what the issue was. Looks like the panel board that the door material is mounted to was just old and coming apart. The cover material was in great shape so I didnt want to remove it all. I found some .025" thick aluminum (in the junk pile I never throw anything away) and cut a new backer plate for the switch. She sits in there solid as a rock. I would have used a different metal if i had any around. The aluminum is soft but in that thickness it works well and it works well. And its easy to cut with a sabre saw. Also, had to drill some holes and screw the plate down between two pieces of wood so I could get the saw around. I used the "sleeve" that the switch pushes into (last pic) as a template and just traced around it. Then drew the same shape again inside so i could get the tightest fit possible in the old panel. 

Did you glue down the sheet metal or did it work without fastening to the cardboard.  I’m about to do this same repair today.  

[RON T]

Geez, this post has been going since October 24 and I just seen it !. I need to get on here more often. Good job Mike !!!!!