DragCat Posted June 1 Posted June 1 10 hours ago, jbird72 said: So what if i do this and ratchet strap both sides by front head bolts to hold plus trans is supported on jack Just my .02 If you go that route I'd put some moving blankets under the 2X4 2 Quote
420ponies Posted June 1 Posted June 1 I had the starter off, inspection plate off, lower radiator hose off, fuel pump line from tank off. I'm thinkin' you have enough room to get the pan off. Remember , 6:00pm on the balancer timing mark for the crankshaft counterweights to be out of the way too. I also think that while you are at it that timing cover should be replaced (looks pitted),those are not so thick either.That way the new front seal will be set in correctly. I just used short pieces of wood between motor mount pad and engine mount. See, told you that motor mount might be bad!. Looks to me like you have it under control. Working smart, is being safe. That oil pickup will work fine .The 2 bolts are on the oil pump cover, eliminating the tack weld. I used a crow foot wrench head to tap pickup into oil pump, brass hammer is a must. the rear main seal is a little tricky to in stall up side down. once you have the cap off lower is a breeze, upper is the hard one.I usually just use a pick and tap on it to get it started to come out. Lip,(tapered side ) to the rear.you can find that on Youtube for sure. 2 Quote
jbird72 Posted June 1 Author Posted June 1 40 minutes ago, 420ponies said: I had the starter off, inspection plate off, lower radiator hose off, fuel pump line from tank off. I'm thinkin' you have enough room to get the pan off. Remember , 6:00pm on the balancer timing mark for the crankshaft counterweights to be out of the way too. I also think that while you are at it that timing cover should be replaced (looks pitted),those are not so thick either.That way the new front seal will be set in correctly. I just used short pieces of wood between motor mount pad and engine mount. See, told you that motor mount might be bad!. Looks to me like you have it under control. Working smart, is being safe. That oil pickup will work fine .The 2 bolts are on the oil pump cover, eliminating the tack weld. I used a crow foot wrench head to tap pickup into oil pump, brass hammer is a must. the rear main seal is a little tricky to in stall up side down. once you have the cap off lower is a breeze, upper is the hard one.I usually just use a pick and tap on it to get it started to come out. Lip,(tapered side ) to the rear.you can find that on Youtube for sure. Wow i got all of it. Ugg i removed old balancer ill pit it back to turn crank to 6 oclock its at tdc now 2 Quote
jbird72 Posted June 1 Author Posted June 1 Just now, jbird72 said: Wow i got all of it. Ugg i removed old balancer ill pit it back to turn crank to 6 oclock its at tdc now Wow was a good thing btw. Thank yu 1 Quote
jbird72 Posted June 1 Author Posted June 1 1 hour ago, DragCat said: Just my .02 If you go that route I'd put some moving blankets under the 2X4 I happened to have some great 1 Quote
jbird72 Posted June 1 Author Posted June 1 1 hour ago, 420ponies said: I had the starter off, inspection plate off, lower radiator hose off, fuel pump line from tank off. I'm thinkin' you have enough room to get the pan off. Remember , 6:00pm on the balancer timing mark for the crankshaft counterweights to be out of the way too. I also think that while you are at it that timing cover should be replaced (looks pitted),those are not so thick either.That way the new front seal will be set in correctly. I just used short pieces of wood between motor mount pad and engine mount. See, told you that motor mount might be bad!. Looks to me like you have it under control. Working smart, is being safe. That oil pickup will work fine .The 2 bolts are on the oil pump cover, eliminating the tack weld. I used a crow foot wrench head to tap pickup into oil pump, brass hammer is a must. the rear main seal is a little tricky to in stall up side down. once you have the cap off lower is a breeze, upper is the hard one.I usually just use a pick and tap on it to get it started to come out. Lip,(tapered side ) to the rear.you can find that on Youtube for sure. Actually ordered the gaskets a while back but agreed on the civer couldnt really tell with everything in the way. ... 1 Quote
jbird72 Posted June 1 Author Posted June 1 Here we go hope its high enough what a %$^^: nightmare 3 Quote
jbird72 Posted June 1 Author Posted June 1 3 hours ago, 420ponies said: I had the starter off, inspection plate off, lower radiator hose off, fuel pump line from tank off. I'm thinkin' you have enough room to get the pan off. Remember , 6:00pm on the balancer timing mark for the crankshaft counterweights to be out of the way too. I also think that while you are at it that timing cover should be replaced (looks pitted),those are not so thick either.That way the new front seal will be set in correctly. I just used short pieces of wood between motor mount pad and engine mount. See, told you that motor mount might be bad!. Looks to me like you have it under control. Working smart, is being safe. That oil pickup will work fine .The 2 bolts are on the oil pump cover, eliminating the tack weld. I used a crow foot wrench head to tap pickup into oil pump, brass hammer is a must. the rear main seal is a little tricky to in stall up side down. once you have the cap off lower is a breeze, upper is the hard one.I usually just use a pick and tap on it to get it started to come out. Lip,(tapered side ) to the rear.you can find that on Youtube for sure. Should i use rtv like whomever did this besides gaskets .. It looks like they done that on the bottom also where the pan sits.Up 1 Quote
Dtret Posted June 1 Posted June 1 Skim coat the main gasket on the cover and put a dollop on the edges of the oil pan gasket, at the joint where the timing cover meets and where the oil pan gasket meets. Front and rear. Also if the timing cover came with two lower gaskets make sure you use the correct one. Better suggestion would be to use a one piece oil pan gasket and eliminate some joints. 1 Quote
jbird72 Posted June 1 Author Posted June 1 1 hour ago, Dtret said: Skim coat the main gasket on the cover and put a dollop on the edges of the oil pan gasket, at the joint where the timing cover meets and where the oil pan gasket meets. Front and rear. Also if the timing cover came with two lower gaskets make sure you use the correct one. Better suggestion would be to use a one piece oil pan gasket and eliminate some joints. Yeah I have the one piece felpro the pan fits except for the the dipstick tube.I could cut that back couldn't I?It's not gonna hurt anything 2 Quote
Scott S. Posted June 1 Posted June 1 3 hours ago, jbird72 said: Should i use rtv like whomever did this besides gaskets .. It looks like they done that on the bottom also where the pan sits.Up Make sure the RTV is heat rated... 1 Quote
Scott S. Posted June 1 Posted June 1 1 hour ago, jbird72 said: Yeah I have the one piece felpro the pan fits except for the the dipstick tube.I could cut that back couldn't I?It's not gonna hurt anything If it's possible, can you make a hole around the tube with some type of hole punch ? Saves the integrity of the gasket. 1 Quote
jbird72 Posted June 1 Author Posted June 1 3 minutes ago, Scott S. said: Make sure the RTV is heat rated... I got permatex grey Quote
Scott S. Posted June 1 Posted June 1 Every step adds a new one... While you're down there, might as well grease the steering. 1 Quote
jbird72 Posted June 1 Author Posted June 1 4 minutes ago, jbird72 said: I got permatex grey I 4 minutes ago, Scott S. said: Every step adds a new one... While you're down there, might as well grease the steering. 1 hour ago, jbird72 said: Yeah I have the one piece felpro the pan fits except for the the dipstick tube.I could cut that back couldn't I?It's not gonna hurt anything Quote
jbird72 Posted June 1 Author Posted June 1 Just now, jbird72 said: I I gonna have to pull it after all fml. I cant get uper seal out dont wanna mar crank. It just wants to crumble with the slightest push i took an awl and cut tip off then filed so was a nice square pusher. Thougt would work any thouggts. And on the tube pan wont go up without that cut Quote
Scott S. Posted June 1 Posted June 1 3 minutes ago, jbird72 said: I gonna have to pull it after all fml. I cant get uper seal out dont wanna mar crank. It just wants to crumble with the slightest push i took an awl and cut tip off then filed so was a nice square pusher. Thougt would work any thouggts. And on the tube pan wont go up without that cut Upper seal on the crankshaft ??? Quote
Dtret Posted June 1 Posted June 1 50 minutes ago, jbird72 said: I gonna have to pull it after all fml. I cant get uper seal out dont wanna mar crank. It just wants to crumble with the slightest push i took an awl and cut tip off then filed so was a nice square pusher. Thougt would work any thouggts. And on the tube pan wont go up without that cut They make a tool for getting them out. Quote
420ponies Posted June 1 Posted June 1 If you have an old dipstick of any kind (bendable), thin steel, that will start in the space for the upper seal, that should do it. Might have try one side, then the other. I used a carb adjustment tool from my chainsaw to get that seal out. Is the old oil pan seal still intact? you could use that as a pattern to use to trim/cut around the oil dipstick tube. Reason for that tube is to keep thin metal away from spinning metal. If that seal is put in wrong, it will pour oil out the rear main. That rear main should be torqued in 2 steps. Have to look at my books for spec. . I'm thinking 65ft lbs. . I'll double check that spec. 1 Quote
jbird72 Posted June 1 Author Posted June 1 1 hour ago, Scott S. said: If it's possible, can you make a hole around the tube with some type of hole punch ? Saves the integrity of the gasket. I just talked to prez ..joe... It's the wrong PAN, it has no area for any tube to go to and then it's missing 4 holes, where it would bolt up to the block. I don't know what moroso was thinking And now I gotta pull the motor any way that upper rear main seals, just crumbling it when I hit it with this little. It's flat squared off tool. It just doesn't want to push through. It's just rotted dry, so now i'm just gonna do everything on the motor while it's on a stand f*** it I 1 Quote
jbird72 Posted June 1 Author Posted June 1 Just now, jbird72 said: I just talked to prez ..joe... It's the wrong PAN, it has no area for any tube to go to and then it's missing 4 holes, where it would bolt up to the block. I don't know what moroso was thinking And now I gotta pull the motor any way that upper rear main seals, just crumbling it when I hit it with this little. It's flat squared off tool. It just doesn't want to push through. It's just rotted dry, so now i'm just gonna do everything on the motor while it's on a stand f*** it I There's a magical way of getting that out of there Quote
Dtret Posted June 1 Posted June 1 6 minutes ago, jbird72 said: I just talked to prez ..joe... It's the wrong PAN, it has no area for any tube to go to and then it's missing 4 holes, where it would bolt up to the block. I don't know what moroso was thinking And now I gotta pull the motor any way that upper rear main seals, just crumbling it when I hit it with this little. It's flat squared off tool. It just doesn't want to push through. It's just rotted dry, so now i'm just gonna do everything on the motor while it's on a stand f*** it I I wouldn’t blame Moroso. Different applications different pan. The person that installed the pan perhaps. 1 Quote
420ponies Posted June 1 Posted June 1 Must be for later model sbc? Well, get the right pan ,get it on a stand and get'er done! I hate when things don't go your way. Been there too many times. Like Joe T says, " 1 step forward,3 steps back". Had my rear axle apart 3 times before it was right. It's the little things you forget to do. " did I torque those bolts .....hmm,better check"🙃 2 Quote
jbird72 Posted June 1 Author Posted June 1 1 hour ago, 420ponies said: Must be for later model sbc? Well, get the right pan ,get it on a stand and get'er done! I hate when things don't go your way. Been there too many times. Like Joe T says, " 1 step forward,3 steps back". Had my rear axle apart 3 times before it was right. It's the little things you forget to do. " did I torque those bolts .....hmm,better check"🙃 Yeah garanteed..im just gonna pull her 4 more bolts on trans f it. Maybe i can see the converter number then. Curious be a lot easier make sure all sealed perfect. Hell might even pull intake and check lifters or replace. Like prez says 8 more bolts and you can have the body off the frame, lmao 1 Quote
Dtret Posted June 1 Posted June 1 Make sure you unbolt the converter from the flexplate. Don’t pull it out with the engine. 3 more bolts. lol. 3 Quote
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