Very strange squeaking noise

[Scott S.]

With just cranking the engine, you won't get proper oil flow to be able to tell.

I placed rags around the head/on the exhaust manifold and had the engine at idle. With the starter crank it's hard to hear.

But at idle you will get a steady flow up through the push rods. 

If they are to tight, that is most likely where the noise is coming from.

Not sure how comfortable you are with doing it, but the rods should be just at the point of not being able to be rotated while running.....

NOT tight, they need to rotate while running, but they shouldn't spin freely.

If they are all close to being set, a little extra snug may point out which lifter is squeaking. The noise will go away. 

But if they're too tight, the noise will get worse. 

Hope that makes sense to you.  

[Marks71]

Are any of the pushrods rubbing against their respective guides?

[curtish57]

3 hours ago, Dtret said:

Does it have roller rockers or roller lifters?

No to both. 

3 hours ago, Scott S. said:

With just cranking the engine, you won't get proper oil flow to be able to tell.

I placed rags around the head/on the exhaust manifold and had the engine at idle. With the starter crank it's hard to hear.

But at idle you will get a steady flow up through the push rods. 

If they are to tight, that is most likely where the noise is coming from.

Not sure how comfortable you are with doing it, but the rods should be just at the point of not being able to be rotated while running.....

NOT tight, they need to rotate while running, but they shouldn't spin freely.

If they are all close to being set, a little extra snug may point out which lifter is squeaking. The noise will go away. 

But if they're too tight, the noise will get worse. 

Hope that makes sense to you.  

I think I get what you're saying. So if I get it warm, let it idle, pull the valve covers and physically inspect each pushrod that oil is getting out of the top adequately and if it's no that's indictive of it being too tight and needing to be adjusted. At that point shut the engine down and adjust accordingly. If you are saying to do it while it's running I would be comfortable doing that I just never have. Do you have a youtube link instructional that you trust you could point me to? 

I've never adjusted the valves since I put the motor together so whatever the engine shop adjusted it to is what it has been. 

Is there anything to my theory on the oil pickup screen and/or the type of oil I am using? I've read 20-50 high zinc lucas is better but also read the one I am running is fine I don't know how to sort out the truth. 

2 hours ago, Marks71 said:

Are any of the pushrods rubbing against their respective guides?

I don't know honestly I wouldn't know how to look for that. When I had the intake off everything looked fine as in no unusual wear marks etc.. 

[Dtret]

Old school valve adjustment. Get the engine at operating temperature, pull a cover and start engine, preface—- they sell an oil deflector kit that clip on the rockers to keep most of the oil in the head, you will still want some rags to set on the exhaust manifold to catch any loss ——-  grab a ratchet, extension and socket. Start it up and go one by one.    Loosen till it ticks, tighten till the ticking stop and go another 1/4 turn. Repeat until done. The guide plates  will be between the rocker and the head, if you have them. 

[curtish57]

Ok I can do this with a valve over that has the top cut out of it too right? Do I need both sides off at the same time to adjust or can I do one at a time?

 

[bob 71]

one side at a time. if there is room and oil doesnt pump/spill out sure

[Marks71]

I can definitely see the guide plates in the video.

[420ponies]

If it was me , I'd contact the shop you bought it from and see if they make house calls ($$), to come out and check it out for you. Is there any warranty on the build? Looks pretty stock to me.Has to be something simple in my mind.

[curtish57]

11 hours ago, Marks71 said:

I can definitely see the guide plates in the video.

Is there a way to check that these are set correctly? Or adjust them?

4 hours ago, 420ponies said:

If it was me , I'd contact the shop you bought it from and see if they make house calls ($$), to come out and check it out for you. Is there any warranty on the build? Looks pretty stock to me.Has to be something simple in my mind.

It is pretty stock yes. The problem is I bought it from a guy who had it built at the shop so any warranty would have been for him not me. Also that being said and for reference according to the paperwork I got. The receipt from the engine shop is paid for May 2023, I bought the engine from the guy in April 2024 and broke in the cam in late June 24. 

[Scott S.]

19 hours ago, Marks71 said:

Are any of the pushrods rubbing against their respective guides?

Never thought of that.... Good call.   

[Scott S.]

1 hour ago, curtish57 said:

Is there a way to check that these are set correctly? Or adjust them?

It is pretty stock yes. The problem is I bought it from a guy who had it built at the shop so any warranty would have been for him not me. Also that being said and for reference according to the paperwork I got. The receipt from the engine shop is paid for May 2023, I bought the engine from the guy in April 2024 and broke in the cam in late June 24. 

The guides are machined fairly accurately, but you can see by just looking if there's any contact with the rods. There might be some play in the mounting, but usually you can tap them over. 

As for oil, zinc is always good, but unless you're really working/racing the engine, a 10w30 oil is most likely all you would need.

With 60 psi of pressure, the clogged pick up doesn't sound likely..... What kind of gunk did you find in the break in oil when you changed it ??

 

 

[curtish57]

Just now, Scott S. said:

The guides are machined fairly accurately, but you can see by just looking if there's any contact with the rods. There might be some play in the mounting, but usually you can tap them over. 

As for oil, zinc is always good, but unless you're really working/racing the engine, a 10w30 oil is most likely all you would need.

With 60 psi of pressure, the clogged pick up doesn't sound likely..... What kind of gunk did you find in the break in oil when you changed it ??

 

 

I didn't really find any gunk in the break in oil honestly it look good when it came out. I will look at those guide plates and look for wear marks. 

[Scott S.]

16 hours ago, Dtret said:

Old school valve adjustment. Get the engine at operating temperature, pull a cover and start engine, preface—- they sell an oil deflector kit that clip on the rockers to keep most of the oil in the head, you will still want some rags to set on the exhaust manifold to catch any loss ——-  grab a ratchet, extension and socket. Start it up and go one by one.    Loosen till it ticks, tighten till the ticking stop and go another 1/4 turn. Repeat until done. The guide plates  will be between the rocker and the head, if you have them. 

Easiest way I've found..... Considering that the internal spring rate in the lifter can vary from one to the other, and clearance specs are usually "within a range", this method makes sure everything is working together happily.  

[Scott S.]

4 minutes ago, curtish57 said:

I didn't really find any gunk in the break in oil honestly it look good when it came out. I will look at those guide plates and look for wear marks. 

Old trick.... (taught to me by an old mechanic) is to put a liter/quart of diesel fuel in the oil and run it for about a minute, watching that the oil pressure doesn't drop to far, and draining everything out. Let it drain for quite a while, making sure the diesel drains out. 

It's cheaper than those "cleaning" additives, and does the same job. 

But like I mentioned, with that kind of pressure, I don't think there's anything clogging the pump. 

[dejh22]

Maybe something going on with the Harmonic balancer?  

 

[420ponies]

Did you ever find out what the noise was?

 

[72-CLASSIC_RIDE]

On 7/5/2025 at 7:43 PM, dejh22 said:

Maybe something going on with the Harmonic balancer?  

 

I had that problem once except the Harmonic Balancer made more of a erratic clicking sound.  It had slightly loosened and once Torqued down, the clicking went away.....