Court1984 Posted July 24 Posted July 24 Front brakes: Rotors Pads Calipers Caliper hoses Inner bearings Outer bearings Inner seals Rear brakes: Shoes Hardware kit Wheel cylinders Drums Belts Front end alignment Exhaust leak: Replace exhaust donuts Rear suspension: Replace rear lower trailing arms Total: $3000.00 Deposit: $1500.00 I asked for: Motor mounts Trans leak differential leak Exhaust manifold connection to exhaust Clank noise when you pull off Harmonic balance check Belts What do you guys think of recommendations and price? Quote
cbolt Posted July 24 Posted July 24 looks pretty reasonable to me. That's a lot of work. That includes parts and labor, correct? I gave a deposit of 1200 for a wilwood brake kit installation kit and 2 new mufflers. 5 Quote
Dtret Posted July 24 Posted July 24 Price isn’t horrible if it actually needs all them parts. The deposit is probably close to the parts price and the remainder would be the labor ( 150/hr 10 hours) 6 Quote
420ponies Posted July 24 Posted July 24 If your out and driving it, as you are repairing it, I'd start with the brakes, most of the stuff you listed you can do yourself if mechanically inclined. Then go to the engine and replace those belts. 5 Quote
Dtret Posted July 25 Posted July 25 Remember too the drums and rotors are real metal and can be turned true( if they have the equipment) if they are thick enough. Don’t forget about the ebrake hardware and cables that’s probably not included in the price but might be an add on “ while they are in there” 6 Quote
Marks71 Posted July 25 Posted July 25 Unfortunately we live in a disposable society now and fewer and fewer shops want to mess with turning when they can sell you a new imported part. 3 Quote
dejh22 Posted July 25 Posted July 25 I just finished replacing the rear drum brakes. All new spring kits, brake cylinders, backing plates, drums and shoes. I figure around $475 for parts. Took a long time to get it done. The guy who did the work (me) is really slow! lol! 8 2 Quote
Wd71MC Posted July 25 Posted July 25 4 hours ago, dejh22 said: I just finished replacing the rear drum brakes. All new spring kits, brake cylinders, backing plates, drums and shoes. I figure around $475 for parts. Took a long time to get it done. The guy who did the work (me) is really slow! lol! Awesome job Dale it must be the time for brake work that’s what I’ve been going through I purchased brake shoes, hardware kit, and hardware kit that came with adjusters,wheel cylinders, 2 front brake lines and rear rubber brake line and going to get rear drums turned. It’s definitely a slow process I’ve not dealt with drum brakes since I was in highschool 26 yrs ago lol. 4 Quote
Dtret Posted July 25 Posted July 25 It’s not bad but only do one side at a time. Lay out all the parts and differentiate parts for left and right sides. 7 Quote
dejh22 Posted July 26 Posted July 26 19 hours ago, Wd71MC said: Awesome job Dale it must be the time for brake work that’s what I’ve been going through I purchased brake shoes, hardware kit, and hardware kit that came with adjusters,wheel cylinders, 2 front brake lines and rear rubber brake line and going to get rear drums turned. It’s definitely a slow process I’ve not dealt with drum brakes since I was in highschool 26 yrs ago lol. "I’ve not dealt with drum brakes since I was in highschool 26 yrs ago" Just like riding a bike? lol New backing plates require pulling the axles,so that was fun. I do recommend getting a brake spring install / removal tool. I use to be able to "muscle" the springs on with a couple screw drivers and a pair of vice grips. But with age and Parkinson's I have found that to be impossible. I found the brake spring tool made it easier to deal with the springs. 8 Quote
Scott S. Posted July 26 Posted July 26 On 7/24/2025 at 9:19 PM, Marks71 said: Unfortunately we live in a disposable society now and fewer and fewer shops want to mess with turning when they can sell you a new imported part. The price for re turning a drum/rotor is almost as much as buying a new one... 2 Quote
Marks71 Posted July 26 Posted July 26 2 minutes ago, Scott S. said: The price for re turning a drum/rotor is almost as much as buying a new one... I would think so, the imported stuff Is pretty cheap, and with labor rates at $150-$200/hr, I get it. Given the choice, I’d much rather have a turned US drum/rotor over a new imported one though. 4 Quote
Wd71MC Posted July 30 Posted July 30 On 7/25/2025 at 4:32 PM, Dtret said: It’s not bad but only do one side at a time. Lay out all the parts and differentiate parts for left and right sides. Thanks for the advice Dennis and also thanks for posting some pics of the rear drum brakes from Jan 2021 really big help. It actually showed that whoever put the rear brakes on my Monte put them on wrong they had the shorter shoe facing the rear of the Monte. So thanks so much Dennis for the pics. Wes 3 Quote
Wd71MC Posted July 30 Posted July 30 On 7/26/2025 at 10:40 AM, dejh22 said: "I’ve not dealt with drum brakes since I was in highschool 26 yrs ago" Just like riding a bike? lol New backing plates require pulling the axles,so that was fun. I do recommend getting a brake spring install / removal tool. I use to be able to "muscle" the springs on with a couple screw drivers and a pair of vice grips. But with age and Parkinson's I have found that to be impossible. I found the brake spring tool made it easier to deal with the springs. Thanks for the advice Dale yep before I got started on the brakes I took a trip to HF and got there brake tool kit very very helpful. Thanks Wes 4 Quote
Jared Richey Posted August 1 Posted August 1 Rock auto. Save a fortune over the parts store prices. 1 Quote
RON T Posted August 2 Posted August 2 On 7/26/2025 at 4:14 PM, Scott S. said: The price for re turning a drum/rotor is almost as much as buying a new one... case in point, just replaced the rear brake pads on the GMC this past week, a little late I might add after pulling a camper home.. everywhere I took the rotor to have it turned wouldn’t do it.. it had 3 thousands of an inch before it was considered non repairable but they all said according to guidelines we can only take so much off which will still leave some ridges . So , pop was pretty much forced to buy a replacement.. which seems to be doing ok so far… as far the tool to collapse the cylinder, you gotta make do with what cha got :).. 8 Quote
Marks71 Posted August 2 Posted August 2 There you go. Great idea! Necessity is the mother of invention. 6 Quote
Dtret Posted August 2 Posted August 2 Newer vehicle rotors cannot be turned. They are made that way to reduce weight. If you did get them resurfaced and they cleaned up to spec they will warp really quickly. 3 3 Quote
Scott S. Posted August 2 Posted August 2 4 hours ago, RON T said: case in point, just replaced the rear brake pads on the GMC this past week, a little late I might add after pulling a camper home.. everywhere I took the rotor to have it turned wouldn’t do it.. it had 3 thousands of an inch before it was considered non repairable but they all said according to guidelines we can only take so much off which will still leave some ridges . So , pop was pretty much forced to buy a replacement.. which seems to be doing ok so far… as far the tool to collapse the cylinder, you gotta make do with what cha got :).. Interesting idea !!! I've usually just used a large "C" clamp and the old pad to push the piston back. 5 Quote
stangeba Posted August 2 Posted August 2 Here is some information about changes to the stock ft end alignment specs. I rebuilt my ft suspension years ago with red bushings, not black stock rubber bushings and after 8 years or so, they started squeaking. Someday when I rebuild them again, I will go STOCK!!!! 2 Quote
Scott S. Posted August 2 Posted August 2 "Red" ??? As in poly ???? Yeah, they give you better suspension feel, but eventually the price is the squeak. Quote
stangeba Posted August 2 Posted August 2 Yes, POLY, NEVER again, I don't remember any improvement! I also (years ago) went to a 1-1/8" ft anti sway bar and added a 7/8" rear anti sway bar and don't remember any big improvement. Best thing I remember was changing my 71 Monte from, stock in 71, BIAS tires to Radial tires. 1 1 Quote
Rob Peters Posted August 2 Posted August 2 1 hour ago, Dtret said: Newer vehicle rotors cannot be turned. They are made that way to reduce weight. If you did get them resurfaced and they cleaned up to spec they will warp really quickly. 👆👆 ☝️☝️ DITTO 👆👆 ☝️☝️ 3 Quote
Scott S. Posted August 2 Posted August 2 21 minutes ago, stangeba said: Yes, POLY, NEVER again, I don't remember any improvement! I also (years ago) went to a 1-1/8" ft anti sway bar and added a 7/8" rear anti sway bar and don't remember any big improvement. Best thing I remember was changing my 71 Monte from, stock in 71, BIAS tires to Radial tires. Many years ago.... When I was younger and foolish, and "frugal", I needed a set of tires for my '80 El Camino. My uncle had a set, on rims that fit, so I bought them and put them on. About 5 miles later, I couldn't figure why the car rode so strange. That's when I took a closer look at the tires and found the words "Bias Ply" on them. Lesson learnt. 3 Quote
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