Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

OK so I changed the springs thinking it would raise the body a little more and stop the rubbing issue on one side, it did not raise it as much as I thought it would.. But I think there might be a different issue. On the left side I can stick my hand between the tire and the edge of the fender, but on the right it is like a small finger width.... I have put all new rear suspension parts (BMR with polly bushings) and rear disk brakes from Right Stuff Detailing. I have not replaced the body bushings, yet. I do not recall there being this much difference in the space before moving to AR. Thoughts?

Posted

Hi Ian, to confirm the problem, try measuring from the ground to the base of the rear bumper below each tailight.

 

I don't think it is that unusual to have an old car not being perfectly straight. From what I have seen, the higher you raise the rear, the more the differences between the sides show up. When I first got mine I had a similar issue. I changed to stock springs, which lowered the car back to stock and the difference is virtually nil.

Posted

That's a common issue Ian. When I changed my rims and tires this year I had one side with good clearance but the other side rubbed. I had to bend in the quarter panel lip to fix the issue. My buddy with a 71 had a similar issue with his but more severe.

Posted

I just went down and checked mine. Im assuming your talking about the rear . The space between the front of the rear tire and the quater panel. Mine is 2 1/2 on one side and 2 1/4 on the other. you may want to get it on an alignment rack and check the thrust angle see if its off.

Posted

these cars were anything but perfect when they came off the assem-line lol

 

you could loosen all your body-mount bolts and straighten her up but!!! you stand a good chance of opening up another can of worms whistle

Posted

I was also thinking that it could be how the rear 1/4's were put on. It had the one on the right replaced way before I got the car, and the left one was replaced when I got it painted back in 01... But like I said I do not remember it being this pronounced before... I went with CC501's for springs, so it is stock height.. I guess I'll have to either bend / cut the fender lip on that side. I was thinking maybe the axle had shifted or something when I put the new parts in. Not having a garage where I can jack it up and look it over sucks frown

Posted

Ian our car has never been in an accident or had the quarters replaced...that's just the way most of them are. On ours I just trimmed the lip up to the WW molding trim screws....that will clear a 28x10 slick on a 8" rim with a 4.5 backspace....

Posted

Buy two new rally wheels with a greater backset. Thats what I did.

Posted

do to design of rear, the axles's C-Clip govve on the axle wears away. jack up car and move tire in and out. amazed on how much lateral play u find----

Posted
They are new axles smile

How new? Did you notice this difference before or "after" you put the axles in?

 

If so they could be different lengths. Did you measure them before you put them in? I know it sounds like an interrogation but I'm curious now... smile

Posted

Couple years Bill, I got them when I was having the vibration problem...

Posted

actually the differance is designed , your angle of your driveshaft cannot be straight or it would bind the differance side to side is that way on most all vehicles , we built a 1970 z28 and replaced the entire rear body with new sheetmetal we spent days measuring prior to final weld luckily we were able to obtain an orignal body print it was designed to be off 1/2 inch by design , mopar offset their motors 1 in in the front to accomplish the same result , when you run stock tire there is no problem , try to stuff fatties under your car then you find the differance

 

 

Leo

Posted

That's interesting. It makes sense, but there are other ways to engineer the driveline so the offset result isn't seen from the outside...shifting the engine to one side is pretty clever, or even using two different axle lengths and having the gear carrier not exactly centered would be another way.

 

I assume then that the RH and LH axles are the same in our cars? Maybe when it comes down to cost analysis, having both sides use the same axle was the cheapest (cost saving) method, and offsetting the entire axle assembly was the easy solution.

Posted

What Leo says makes sense. I've had the same issue with both stock and aftermarket axles and springs with 275/60/15 tires with wheels that have 5" of backspacing. I only rub once in a blue moon if I get real crazy in curve/corner and it's very slight so it doesn't cut the tire and I can't see it.

Posted

I have the same set up and i lost clerance on the right side.I figured that the rear rotors are thicker than the drums are where the wheels seat.I think thats what messed up mine,but a saw fixed it all!

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...