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Posted

Now... Is anyone interested in doing this job for me? lol

Posted
Now... Is anyone interested in doing this job for me? lol

 

Sure. But I'll need to keep it over the Summer for test drive purposes. You gotta make sure it don't leak. grin

Posted

That's the same kit I have Cory....I'm going to follow their recommendations (I was going to do it anyway) and apply small amounts of silicone in the critical areas.......

Posted

just a tiny dab,

and when using RTV is is best to wait until it fully cures before any oil touches it, don't even fill the oil pan for 24 hours

Posted

The crank lobe pointing towards 8 o'clock in this pic, is that the same relationship to the counter-balance weights on the crankshaft? So if I turn the crank so this lobe is at 12 o'clock I should be in good position to remove the oil pan?

P2120184_zpse1d10de1.jpg

Posted

just pull the engine and give it a fresh coat of paint, and while you're at it...might as well clean up the engine bay rofl

Posted
just pull the engine and give it a fresh coat of paint, and while you're at it...might as well clean up the engine bay rofl

There goes the snowball kicking

Posted

You guys sure can get a snow ball rolling...I know you have pushed a few for me.lol

Posted

It is just hanging there! Go ahead lift it out and paint it, I dare ya!

Posted

I can't believe this! It's 70 degrees & I thought I saw a few snowflakes! shock

Posted

Rollin, rollin, rollin, keep that snowball rollin... lol

 

Giant-Snowball_zps0979a65e.jpg

Posted

Replaced the oil pan gasket with the Felpro silicone gasket kit that included new bolts, today. Got my nephew to assist as he had a cherry picker to lift the motor a few inches as I was told that was necessary. Actually, after draining the oil (of course) and the radiator, disconnecting various lines (gas, coolant), removed the carb to install the lifting plate, loosened the radiator shroud, and got the motor mounts bolts out, we lifted about a half an inch and the pan came right out. I was a bit disappointed to discover that this motor is a 2-bolt main block. Was hoping it was a 4-bolt for future projects. ANyway, this gasket kit is really sweet.,we added a bit of RTV in the 4 corners of the main caps........hope that does the trick???

P2150185_zpse940b992.jpg

P2150191_zps18098767.jpg

Thoroughly cleaned the oil pan, no dents to speak of. Sanded and painted.

Posted

don't be disappointed with a 2 bolt main, from what I've learned the 2 bolt is actually stronger, some believe that some don't, if you ever go to a level where it is questionable, put a stud kit in it and be done with it

Posted

Sam you are correct. If it is a SBC 400, two bolt mains are DEFINITLY STRONGER. The webbing on a two bolt block is much thicker. And, unless you are turning over 6500 RPM constantly(race motor), its not going to matter anyhow. A 400 is a torque motor anyway, with TONS of possibilities grin Many improvements you can do to them. Personally , I de-stroke them. I have been building 400's for well over 30 years. I always look for 509 and 817 castings. I love 'em. cool

Posted

Thanks, guys. Once I get a few other projects completed, I was thinking of a 400SBC, .030 over and turn the crank a bit for the RPMs, should make for tons of fun!

Posted

for a street engine, build a torque monster, where all the power is in by 5000 rpm, makes for a much more fun driving car, think about it...how often do you really spin your engine past 5000 RPM while cruising around? having that bottom end grunt for the way most of us use our cars is where it's at shifter

 

I built a monster engine but I love my 454 9.5:1 bottom feeder much better, the car is so much more fun to drive now

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