I did a 489 and it couldn't have cost but a few hundred more than staying with the stock stroke. I needed a new crank any way. Old motor spun a bearing.
Your rear hieght is what I'm looking for. I want the top of the well to sit even with the lip of the rim and it should be close as I have the same rim and tire combo as you. What do you have up front?
When I installed my set the system was dry. The "adjuster shaft" did go in as yours did. If I remember correctly I put a flat washer on it so it would only go in so far. I kept turning until the pad was tight on the rotor then went the opposite direction and the puck stayed out, reassembled.
My instuction read that if the ratcheting method didn't work, remove the cable bracket and use a wrench to move the puck/pad out against the rotor. I had to do this on one of mine. Go to 6:40 on the video and it explanes what to do.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJpC0W6CP78
Tremec has an app for smartphones that tells you if your angle is set correctly, check it out. I also had this problem years ago on a car I owned. Turned out It had a broken motor and trans mount that allowed the drive train to shift and hit the side of the tunnel as you described.
looks like I'm in the neighborhood with 3" pipes running around 650hp. I'm just going to have to hit some more car shows and hear what others have. I think I'm going to pull the trigger on the flowmaster 50s for now. Thanks for posting the Tech info, very helpful.
This question is aimed at people who were looking to tame their engine sound a bit. My 489 is a little loud and I was looking at the 50 series flowwmasters and wondering if anyone else was using them or something similar. I currently have some old 2 chambers that sound great but as I stated they are a little loud for cruising. I have installed v-band couplers so I can swap the mufflers out for different occasions. So let’s here what you guys got.