Arvizu9618

Want to convert my bench to bucket but dont want to spend a small fortune on correct a-body seats. thanks RT

Stupid question but what compression readings should i see on a used (but still running, not abused) stock 350? thanks Art

I'm thinking of building a '71 with an LS1/T56 combo...anyone else done anything similar? Any tips or gotchas to look out for? Thx RT

Also having trouble with new rear yoke and existing rear u-joint. So much for A-body compatibility Nic

I bought and installed a 4.11 posi diff from a 1971 Chevelle on the Black Dragon. It also included a rear disc setup. Problem is, rotors do not fit over the "axle Flange" or "rear hub", it's too wide in diameter. Bolt pattern is PERFECT. Any suggestions in finding the PERFECT rotor that would fit on this rear hub. thanx Nic

You idle in gear at 830 RPM? Hears my setup: Have since added lean/rich gauge, not pictured but there are the oil and water temp guages

700's RULE Could be the spring inside the valve connected to the cable is the incorrect length or maybe it's not there. ART

I'm unable to locate any stamped info on my rear axle. i know I have a "peg leg", is it likely that I have a 2.73 rear? Is that what was most common for the 1970 MC? I'm trying calibrate my digital speedo (which I can do onboard) to coincide with my new 700R4 tranny. thanx, ART

I had the DS shortened 3".

I know the CM will have to be moved back, but my question is Do the wholes already exist in the frame? I have several factory holes on each side, but are the correct one's for the 700R4 already there from the factory???

It can be done guys and I'm sure that some of you have. I didn't know a thing about the inner workings of a transmission, alls I needed was the overhaul book and determination. I'm kind of glad that i had the junk tranny from craigslist, it helped me for reference and I needed a couple of hard parts off of it, especially for the front pump, namely the drive gear, because I chewed up the last one when I installed the torque converter incorrectly. thanks, ART

Anybody here have any tips on getting seal of front oil pump to drop in smoothly? I'm pretty sure all the internals are as far down as possible, just getting hung up at the front pump seal. thanks, art

Thank you all for the words of encouragement and the tips, you guys are the best, but hey, we are what we drive, "Unique, unap preciated, underestimated, misunderstood but classy" I got the Haynes GM Auto trans overhaul techbook and the overhaul kit today at Autozone. So far I'm into it for ~$115. Like i said, a shop already tore it down for me for free and I have the other Craigslist disaster to reference if I get stuck in putting it back together. The original front pump is definitely toast, but I'll try to salvage the Craigslist pump, if not Dacco Detroit has a rebuilt one for $60 and they are local. Is there any objection to soaking the valve body in a cleaning solvent just to make sure all the paths are cleaned? thanks again, ART

yeah i meant tailshaft, I now know it's a 6" tail

My transmission saga continues, I got burned with a Craigslist special. Seller promised it was good, well it was for about 150 miles. Now i have two bad trannys. Anybody here ever rebuilt their own? What especially do i look out for? Front pump gotchas?? Any reliable on-line sites? Going to use a Autozone kit. Having original tranny disasembled now for free. Wish me luck.

I know our rides take the 6" tailshaft, I have the opportunity to get a TH350 with a 9" tail. My question is: can I swap the transfer case??? Thanks, ART

After engine swap, assumed I had proper fluid level, was going into gear on jackstands. Took off stands and car needed alot of gas to get going. I added more fluid, may have been two quarts too much, now car won't go in gear on or off jackstands. TH350, what are the possible problems. I checked and rechecked all connections, tranny was in excellent condition before swap. ARRRGGGGHHHH! One thing leads to another, BOOOO HOOOO HOOOOO! Have since drained a couple of qts, still no go.

Well I have the crossmember out and sure enough it has a slight bend. It's true that the E.S. mount sits a little higher but bent Xmember bould make it sit highter, I'm going to temporarily install the member upside down and lift car the car on it to take the warp out, I'll let you know how it out it all comes out.

Hey All, I'm using the Energy Suspension tranny mount which is a two-piece mount. My U-joiunt/drive shaft hits the "shift tunnel" when I use the flat plate provided, but not when I have it out. Is it possible that my cross-member is warped or could it be my pinion angle is out? I pounded on the shift tunnel to reduce the knocking, haven't road tested it yet and I hate to have to cut the shift tunnel to allow clearance. Any Energy Suspension horror stories? Thanks fellers, ART

I have a console from a 2nd Gen Camaro that came with the original shifter and cable, that I want to install in the MontSter. The console sits a little low, but I'll live with that. I'd like to keep/install the shifter. Has anyone here ever installed one of these?? Are there any diagrams available? Does anyone know where I can get detailed instructions/pix??? All replies are greatly appreciated

When I select "vent/norm/max" or "defrost" the air constantly keeps coming out of the floor as if "heat" has been selected, I have checked all vacuum connections and they appear to all be intact, the only way to get air out to the top is to manually chock the door on where the core is located. Any suggestions???