JG72

Well after checking the switch again looks like the oring seal is leaking again. I was going to order another and try again?

Agreed Scott the parts quality for the past few years has been sketchy. What cap are you saying might have a crack? I have it cleaned up and going to run it this weekend to verify if it's the seal or terminals where the fluid is coming out of. Frustrating!

Now that you mention terminals I'll need to verify which one causing it. I just assumed it was the o ring Thank you

Hi Joe, Outer O-ring around the switch. 2 brand new switches and still leaks in that area Thanks

So I had my TH400 rebuilt last season and the kickdown switch on the drivers side has been replaced 2x since then and still has slight leak after sitting overnight. The old one was also leaking and part of the reason I had the rebuild done. Any suggestions or do I just live with it. Thanks guys

Agreed on head temp being to hot. Changed the H.D. clutch fan today and was stunned the engine temp dropped 20 degrees on both gauges. It also really ran a lot better.

Thanks! Yes we we will run into each other again. I never miss your car at cruise nights. Stands right out! Thanks for the feedback. I figured you were running a similar set up 👍🏻

So from everything I've read online this is a very common complaint and it is normal so to speak with the noise with any of the roller cam and roller lifters. Just didn't expect it to be that loud with hydraulics but roller cams are aggressive so...Does almost sound like solid lifters which guys have said are quieter in some cases compared. Even after multiple adjustments etc. no change in sound.

Auto meter sender next to T-state housing in manifold and Running a 180 thermostat. I take it with the motor being a fresh rebuild with bigger cam etc. it will run hotter. The old engine ran at 190 on the factory gauge which is why I ask compared to now. Thanks for the reply's!

My 402 engine was rebuilt and runs great, I have factory gauges which always seemed accurate and also installed auto meter set up for back up. The auto gauge under the dash reads a 190 temp cruising on my BB. The new sender unit in the drivers head and in the dash gauge reads 220-230. Which one should I go by? Concern is running very hot on dash gauge. I used a temp gun to check block and t-housing and both temp gauges match what I'm reading. Thoughts? Thanks guys. Didn't read this anywhere else in the forum.

I ran into the same issue trying to keep my (rebuilt) QJ on the car. Put it on the Dyno and it wont produce the power from the rebuilt engine ( bigger cam etc.) They slapped a Holley750 fuel feed they had in the shop and BAM! Horsepower went way up and motor loved it. Still can't figure out why. They ripped the QJ apart several times to try and make it work by drilling out secondary flaps etc. but to no avail.

Please let me know what had to be done for your system. I'm going to do the same hopefully soon.

Thanks for info. I actually don’t mind the sound as long it’s not damaging anything.

#s matching 402 just rebuilt and installed from the machine shop and I'm a very happy camper Runs great after readjusting the carb. Just curious I've read the Hydro Roller comp cams and lifters 230/236 can have a sewing machine sound (which I have). I have only gone a few hundred miles since build. Anyone else experience this with this set up and is it a characteristic of these cams. Thanks guys

Thanks for the info on the Headman shorties fitment Wallaby

Thanks Dennis! That pics really helped. Appreciate it.

That car looks outstanding! Great buy at 25K

Thanks. Yes I understand minimal power gain will be added with shorty's. I see you drive one of the rarest MC's!

I couldn't find the answers I was looking for about this topic and need feedback from folks who have shorty headers on their BB please. What brand did you get, how was the fit and quality, and does it add to the sound much. I'm under the impression that they bolt right up to the exhaust without modification. I'm changing out the manifolds (leaking) and didn't want the hassle that comes with long tubes. Thanks!

Ok great thank you for info!

It's a thing we have to use up north lol

I was driving around today for about an hour with the heat going and went to touch the display and it was hot. Really hot and so was the lever. Anyone run into this and is it an issue?

Ya it just stays at 10 all the time so gauge must be broken. Thanks for info guys.

Thanks guys that helps!

Stays at +10 on or off. I still have that TCS plugged in sitting on my intake. Do they even do anything? Thanks for feedback