Chevy Dave

I would think that the portion of the blower that would be inside the spacer and outside of the air stream would not increase the air flow very much, if any.

I was mistaken when I said that the feed to the blower relay came from behind the battery. A black # 10 wire goes from the horn relay to the inline fuse and then it becomes a orange #12 to the relay. I will change the orange wire to a # 10 , the purple wire to the blower to a #10 and the ground wire to a # 10 based on your results. After much research, I don't think any of the 60s through the 80s blower motors turn any faster than the original ones on the 1st gen Montes. The increased performance from the 80s Suburbans comes from a longer blower wheel. I don't think we have room in the blower housing to install a larger blower. If anyone has been able to install a longer blower wheel please let us know.

I have researched trying to find a more powerful blower motor without success. It looks like the Impala station wagons use the same one as the Monte Carlo. If anyone finds one that fits our cars, please post the model number of the better one.

On high speed, on a factory AC car, the blower motor is fed by a #12 purple wire from the relay on top of the evaporator case. A # 12 orange wire feeds the relay directly from the battery terminal behind the battery. The short run of #12 wire has very little resistance. You should have full battery voltage to the blower on high, unless the relay has corroded contacts.

Scott, Can you give us a Brand name and part number.

If anyone finds a better motor that will fit, please let us know.

A great suggestion, but I researched the part numbers and all Impalas, Chevelles, and Monte Carlo use the same part number. I wonder if the Suburban unit would fit?

I installed a new Four Seasons blower motor from Rock Auto in my 70 A/C car, because of the same issue. The new motor is also slower than I would like. I also wonder if anyone has found a more powerful motor that will work in our cars?

I always use grade 8 lock washers even on lower grade bolts. I think that they retain their tension better. Using Loctite and the lock washers would give you more reliability.

An SS would have a rear sway bar. I agree that nothing about this car indicates that it was ever an SS.

When I purchased my car last year it had been converted to R134. I am not very happy with the reduced output. I have read that a parallel flow condenser can restore past R12 performance. Do any of you guys have experience with installing one?

In 1972 a 454 came with a 3.31 rear axle as standard equipment. The 3.31 Posi was an option.

Thanks Ron, for the photo, I think you are correct. Dave

2.56 was standard in 1970 on the SS 454. 3.31 was standard in 1971 on the SS 454.

My 70 SS is a numbers matching 2.56 posi. If you research all of the SS build sheets published on this site, you will find that most 70 SS cars are 2.56 and many are posi.

What is the correct place to mount the decal on the evaporator housing under the hood? Mine is a 1970.

Besides hand tools and spare parts, I carry small aluminum racing jack from Harbor Freight. I was warned that the bumper jack could scratch my bumpers. One think people often forget is to make sure your spare tire is fully inflated.

This "field demo" is highly optioned, but it seems odd that it did not include Positraction.

Rob, How many miles and how many years old were on the hose that failed? I like to change my hoses and belts at about 10 years or about 50000 miles and carry the old ones in my trunk for emergencies. I am curious when they actually fail.

Thanks Scott!

I have 70 SS 454 without the evaporative emissions and no charcoal canister. My fuel pump has a return line. Should I be using a vented gas cap?

Positraction Wasn't Standard with the F41 option or the SS option.

How many days after shutting the engine off engine off, before you have to prime your carb for a cold start?

Which is rarer , 3 speed manual or 4 speed?

Nice info, but I can't print it.