wallaby

The reason it's desirable is because it works...many aftermarket units don't. You have the good thermal clutch and it's not cheap to buy a new replacement. IMO, you have the ideal setup.

The stainless pieces around the windows and drip rails, etc are flash chromed. It's a quick process they used that makes them bright and makes 'em last. You can do a soak in 50/50 mix of muratic acid (sold in the pool section at the box stores) and water and it removes the flash chrome in minutes. I made a large plastic tube with a cap at one end to do mine, so I didn't need a giant container full of acid. When you are done you can neutralize the acid with a baking soda/water mix. Neutralize your trim parts the same way. Once that flash chrome is gone, the pieces polish up nicely without any sanding (unless you are doing dent repair). Don't try this on aluminum trim parts. It works for window trim, drip rail trim, and the big trim at the base of the windshield, but that's about it.

Wow, you don't realize how involved it is until you see it. I bet with the AC compressor mounted it's a real bugger to change the plugs on that side. ...and where in the world would you find something like a new dash pad for that thing? Were Chevelles common in RHD? I've seen other cars that were made from the begining to be fitted either RHD or LHD and they tend to use either linkages for the conversion like early Hondas, or a dash layout that is mirrored from side to side...but this Monte has a handful of specialized parts and the underhood layout is changed. Just amazing.

Wow, I bet you were surprised to find that the new cheap tank was made of carboard! LOL Here's a Pinto vid for ya Bruce. LINKY

We used to run diesel Ford trucks as tow trucks, and those had a simple OD on/off switch. It was recommended that the OD be turned off when towing to avoid damage to the lockup converter. It probably wasn't such a big deal on level ground once you got up to speed, but for average driving while towing it was obviously hard on that lockup converter to be shifting in & out all the time. Maybe the tow mode switch on yours does something similar...raises the fluid pressures, raises the shift points, and aids in engine braking. I don't know if it disables the converter lockup or not, but I understand that the lockup mechanism is not a heavy-duty piece.

That stock filler neck was the issue I had with getting a replacement sending unit. The stock neck extends way forward in the tank, clear up past the sending unit. It works great at keeping the fuel from pouring out the back on acceleration. The replacement sender I got had the float hung on the wrong side and had a conflict with that filler neck. I'd rather have the well designed filler neck than settle for the universal sender.

yay! My new sender arrived today from Autozone and it looks like a perfect match. I did the electric test, and it reads as it should on the dash. It looks as if I'm set for a reinstall this weekend. Thanks Autozone for doing what OPG couldn't. I'm in the middle of California and it was sent from the warehouse in Tennessee. I guess these things aren't as common as they once were.

When I installed my hydroboost system I had to remove the pump from the reservoir to add a second return line, but I didn't go any further than that. It's amazing how crude they really are. Good info, as I was wondering what was inside that pump unit.

I thought I got grey, but it is the 7213 silver. It IS very close to the natural galvanized color...in places where the tank was really clean, it was hard to see where the paint was going on. The Hammered effect is very subtle. It is quite pronounced with the first coats, but less so as you build up coats. It is quite shiny...more so than most silver rattle can paints that tend to be flat. It would be a good choice for painting wheels. Now I just need to wait for my sending unit to arrive, and my fingers are crossed that it is the right part. Today was a sunny day and I'm stuck in the garage.

I have decided to go with a "hammered" finish in grey. It's more like a darker shade of silver, just a tad darker than my rally wheels. I think it'll look ok without making the surrounding parts look too old. LOL I guess if it doesn't work out, I'll always think it should have.

Seems normal to me.

Fun stuff. I went ahead and having Autozone send one to me. They only charge 5 dollars shipping, and if it isn't right I can return it to my local store for refund. I just hope it's the right part. I found one from Year One as well, and that's plan "B" if this doesn't work out. It's not exactly being a quick fix. The only good news about this is that I found the remnant of a build sheet on the tank. Yhere isn't much left of it, but it shows the LS5 454 option listed. Sadly the car ID portion is gone. Now while I'm waiting, I'm cleaning back there. What color is the fuel tank supposed to be? Is it supposed to be the natural galvanized finish? I don't know if I've ever seen one that way. I'm not sure if I want it to stand out like a sore thumb back there. There is some light rust on some areas, so a coat of paint is in order. I guess the question is silver or black? thoughts?

I saw that, but it isn't available unless you have it shipped direct to your home. I'd feel better if it was known to fit/work. NAPA sells the exact same part, but they won't send one to a local store unless I pay for the shipping. It's just getting expensive to have these things shipped. I'm out already for the shipping of the wrong Summit part.

Anybody here replaced their fuel sending unit? Mine went bad and I ordered up a new one from OPG (sold through Summit), and it is wrong for the application. The float arm has the float on the wrong side, and it can't rise above 1/4 tank because it runs into the filler neck inside the tank. The original sender extends 1/2" deeper into the tank than this new one also. I have to return this part, but now I'm looking for a replacement again. Anybody here been through this before? mine has the 3/8 line with 1/4 return.

That's interesting. So I guess if you're looking for a part, it could be one of several different numbers depending on it's origin? I like the part number that shows it for $12.20

When you buy a headlight switch, it comes without the knob. You have to reuse your original. My SS (71) has all rubber knobs with the intl symbols. I understand that another clue is the color of the steering column. The SS had a black column no matter what interior color. If you have black interior, that won't help you any.

I had heard that the side post battery was created for two reasons: It wasn't as tall and needed little clearance allowing lower hood profiles, and I heard it was for the new Chevy Vega which had a unique shipping requirement. They would drive the completed car onto the sides of a boxcar, and fold up the sides for transport. This meant the car would be positioned nose-down for extended periods, and they had to develop a way to keep the batteries from draining in this position. I did some Google on the subject, and see that some GM models had them as early as '69? Maybe the thought of shipping was to extend to all models of GM, but who knows. No other MFG'rs caught on to the idea.

I have the Mk VIII in mine as well. The V-6 Taurus uses the same fan and it's easier to find and remove in the junkyard. Chrysler cars have a neat "fuse block" under the hood near the brake master that holds several relays and a heavy duty diode for electric fans...but it's yellow. I used a fusible link wire instead of a standard fuse, and it holds up well against the current surge when the fans start. I ran my power from the regulator buss bar. You'll also need a temp sensor that pushes thru the radiator fins to tell the fan when to run...those can be bought new from the auto parts store. Here is a wiring diagram for a fan setup with dash light, AC switch, manual switch, and all. There are simpler ways if you don't need all that.

The problem is that some of the waterspot is a buildup of calcium deposits, and part is an etching from acids in the water. I've had pretty good luck using a single-edge razor blade and water to shave off the calcium that is stuck to the surface of the glass...but you risk scratching the glass this way. There is a product called "Barkeepers Friend" that works wonders. It is similar to a can of cleanser and is used in the same way, but forms a mild acid when mixed with water. It is aproved for use on glass cooktops. The collectors of antique glass bottles and insulators swear by the stuff. I have used it with a magic eraser, and it works great. I didn't find it at my local Wal-Mart, but the grocery store had it. I think home depot has it also.

I did the 8ga alternator to buss-bar upgrade, with good result. I have electric fans and wanted to make sure everything from the alternator was getting to that buss. I have NOT converted to the relay system for my headlights; those seem plenty bright to me. I have thought about it though...I like the idea of gaining power for the dash lights and ignition circuits.

D'oh.

Welll, it sounded easy. LOL It looks as if I have an open circuit somewhere between the trunk connector and ground. My mechanic says it's common for the "wiper" to break off of the sending unit inside the tank. If I hook up a test light to the feed wire, it shows voltage and the resistance in the bulb sends the fuel gauge down to about 1/4 tank... seems like everything is in order except the sending unit. I did a quick search for a replacement sender, and it looks as if they are all a 3/8" fuel line....but there is one listed that also has a 1/4" return line. I'd bet I need the one with the return, what with California smog and all...and it looks like there are more than 2 lines going to the tank. One of those might be a tank vent and not related to the sender, but I haven't pulled the tank to look. Right now I'm just trying to find a replacement sender to hand to my mechanic. What's your vote? Get the one with the return? 1971 SS454. CA car.

If only it were that easy. Changing the pressure won't change how much the engine consumes. Your carb is just like a toilet tank: you can turn down the water pressure at your house, but it won't change how much water is used per flush....it just means you have to wait longer for the tank to refill. The idea behind fuel pressure is to be sure you can keep up with demand from the engine when you have the throttle open. If you are trying to pass a truck on the interstate, you don't want the carb to run out of gas halfway through the manuver ( you need to refill the carb as fast as the engine is draining it). turning down the pressure might let the carb run outof fuel and cause surging or even stalling when the engine is under load. The carb will shut off the flow of fuel when it doesn't need it, just like your toilet stops when it gets full. If low pressure was the ticket for good MPG, everyone would want a clogged fuel filter. LOL

Have you switched to a different style alternator? Sometimes the internal regulated type aren't as good at low speed charging. The other concern is where the power feed for your amp is hooked up. Is it connected direct to the battery? It might behave better if it's hooked up at the buss bar near the drivers side headlight. maybe speed up the idle a bit?

Just when you think it'll never happen to you: my fuel gauge has gone kaput. It worked fine yesterday, but today it's pegged beyond full...it's pointing at the 3 O'clock position. It doesn't matter if the key is turned on or off. Before I start tracking this down, maybe someone else has been through this before?