wallaby

Should be offset in, center out.

That makes it about as clear as mud. "unless I'm wrong, I'm never wrong". But to be honest Rob, I couldn't remember either. LOL

Hmmm. I have never seen one of those. At least not factory installed under a Q-jet. I know they are available as a GM service part (as is a starter heat shield) but don't know about them coming that way from the factory.

OK, I thought you were wrong so I set out to prove it, and found that it is indeed the fuse and connector for the underhood light. There was an old fuse firmly stuck in the end I was looking at, so the round shiny thing WAS the fuse! I feel pretty stupid, but thanks to your help I can sleep again.

It does look original. It is connected to a terminal on the horn relay that has a bunch of stuff going to it. The way the relay is positioned, it is the terminal closest to the radiator, and the wire is about 18" long. That funny end doesn't look like it has any grooves or tabs to lock it with something else; it looks like a pure push-on fit. There isn't room for a fuse in this thing, (it might be the male end), as the shiny terminal is barely covered by the cone-shaped boot. It might help to mention that my car is a 71 BB/AC.

I have a small (18ga?) black wire hanging off my horn relay (I think) and it has a funny end on it that looks kinda like a miniature sparkplug boot. Inside the end it has a 1/4" shiny round terminal that looks like maybe a fuse should be against it. I can't find where the wire should connect....can't find the other end. Anyone have any clues?

Rice, I just LOVE reading your posts. It's nice having you on our side

Sounds to me like he's trying to go the other way.

Good advice so far, but the hi-speed blower uses a different power source and fuse. I'm not sure if the blower wiring is different between A/C and non-A/C cars. The blower might have some leaves in it keeping it from turning even. You should be able to feel heat coming thru even without the blower running. If you have a heater control valve connected to the heater hoses between the firewall and engine, then having it in the "off" position all summer can cause sediment to collect in the bottom of the heater core. Pull a heater hose off at the engine, and use a garden hose to verify that water will flow through. The door to control heat temperature is cable opperated.

And it's held together with more bolts.

OK, they are 1". I was guessing. With that weird spacer/sleeve that runs through the center, you need a bunch more space than that to get them in. I thought I could just push them in from the side and drop the bolt through, but it is a little more involved than that.

The body bushings that hold that core support up are about 1 1/2" inches tall. I'm guessing, but I recall they were tall and I had a heck of a time getting them in there.

I couldn't tell from your post if you are trying to remove the hitch, or the weld that is left behind. If you are just trying to remove a giant lump of weld it might help to anneal it so a grinder will have an easier time of it. I anneal sheet metal from time to time because too much hammering makes the metal too hard to shape. The method works for me on steel and aluminum and should soften the weld for you. I use a oxy-acetylene torch and set the flame rich in acetylene. There should be slight smoke from the flame. Run the flame over the area you are working and cover the metal with a layer of soot. Now adjust your flame to neutral and begin to heat the area evenly just until the soot is burned off. Keep the torch moving, and kind of warm the entire area. Let the item cool by itself until it is 200 degrees or so, then you can cool it the rest of the way with a sponge or rag and a bucket of water. That's all there is to it. As you grind and work with the metal it will tend to harden again, and you can just anneal it again. Rinse and repeat.

The holes in the head gasket aren't big enough to let an intake bolt go through, are they? Anyway, that sucks. I have no problem with the chewing gum (intake or exhaust), but knowing that bolt is in there would drive me nuts. I would have to get the darn thing out. Even if I could convince myself that it couldn't do any harm, it would still bug me.

a matchbook cover works well as a feeler for .016

Yea, I picked it up from the body shop on friday, and when I washed it on saturday water flowed from the rear window into the trunk. They were supposed to fix that. Today I took it back to have their repair repaired. He seemed to think it was just bad install of the glass, but whatever it turns out to be, he'll fix it. Other than that it looks STUNNING. I still need to get the rear-end rebuilt, but then I'm goin' to be cruisin!

I see that I can get Chevelle door edge guards from Year One, but anyone know if they will fit the Monte? I have my original pieces, but they have been bumping things for 30 years and I'd like to put on some new ones if I can find them.

Are you sure Marchie? I believe you have pictures, but are the mirrors legit? I have never seen a passenger side sport mirror, nor have I seen a build sheet showing the option. I have no idea; I just thought they didn't exist. Maybe they only came on Montes with the LS-6 option?

That heater resistor is mounted to the heater box ductwork and is mostly flush on the outside except for the terminals that accept the 3-wire harness. The bulk of the resistor is on the inside of the heater box. The resistor gets hot, so they placed it inside the ductwork where air circulation will cool it when the heater blower is running. The resistor is the gizmo that provides different voltage outputs so you can have several fan speeds for the blower. The high-speed blower is a different circuit, and does not use the resistor.

I have a 2 car garage. That was how my house was advertised. I don't know what kind of car they used to calculate that number. Maybe the contractor had an Isetta, or a Cooper, but he didn't have an American car! I don't think there would be room for 2 Corvairs even. And they consider a Monte Carlo to be a "mid-sized" car? Maybe it's just me, but it seems pretty large when I'm trying to squeeze into a parking space at the mall. Even on the most busy of days there seems to be about 10 acres of unused parking lot, yet they still insist on painting the lines just 7 1/2 feet apart. I become a human feeler-gauge when I walk between cars.

The Monte is just big enough to make your newly-cleaned garage look REALLY full . Those long doors have to swing well away from the car to be able to get in & out of them.

Is it possible that the Z-bar needs to be turned around? I mean, could it be that the end of the bar that should be against the frame got put against the transmission?

A bad ground is going to be the most popular answer. The voltage sounds good at the battery, so things are probably OK in that area. It is normal to see some drop in voltage further down the line, but if you want to chase the problem, I'd start by hooking a ground wire from the frame to the body just to see if your voltage readings improve. Prime areas that tend to give problems are the ground cable from the battery to the fender there by the battery, and missing or nonexistant ground leads between the engine and frame, and between engine and firewall.

it could even be the headlight switch. The first notch turns on the running lights and the second notch turns on the headlamps. I tried to figure out the circuit from the factory wiring diagram, but they drew it poorly and must have used different artists for each section of the drawings. Here is what I DO know: The side markers and the tail lights (front & rear)and the license lights all get their power from one source. Each of the bulbs has its' own ground. Odds are good that you haven't lost all eleven grounds at once. Start by confirming that you have power on both sides of the fuse in the fuse box. You may need to pull on the headlight switch to get power to the fuse. From there, the diagram pretty much shows a single wire going forward, and a single wire going rearward. They get to the corner area of the car and then split to service multiple bulbs.

My original heads needed valves & guides, and while we are at it, let's put in bigger valves...right? The machine shop told me they could put in the larger valves, but then they wouldn't be able to install hardened seats. By the time we figured what was involved with parts & labor, it was actually cheaper to buy a set of aftermarket heads. I wanted to keep the factory heads, but my pocketbook had the final vote.