2 cents

This should help http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=119379

Monte 70 car, all wires were soldered & heatshrink, I solder for my job daily & am very good at it, all old ends were heatshrinked. For easy dash removal I used male/female connectors. Don't believe I pinched anything, but damn man somethings up

No Sam, none blown as confirmed visually & with test light. Headlight problem solved

Thanks wallaby, I found the headlight problem, my ground wire itself was bad, I replaced the wire & my headlights are , I don't know if the shop that swapped the motor & Trans stretched it to make an internal break or what, but thats the only issue that was solved. I will pull power to the guages & see if I get my blinkers domelight & other stull back but I don't see how that's causing my acc ports on fuse panel to go out

Thank you darren, but no, it's a fully modded stock dash, with all autometer gauges, I eliminated all stock gauges & idiot lights, heres a Pic http://m.flickr.com/lightbox?id=8109217387 I had an electrician friend verify I had wired it correctly. Circuit board is long gone. Is there possibly a bad relay? I'm not sure where I would look.

okay I don't know exactly how to say this but I'm having a terrible problem with several of my wiring systems after installing gauges, after installing gauges my turn signals worked for a short amount of time and then stopped completely, my brake warning light is no longer working, and I lost both Accessory ports in the fuse panel and after a little bit of working lost 1 of ignition Ports (always on) on the fuse panel. also my headlights turn off and on. sometimes quickly, they don't dim. just like they getting shut off and on sometimes quickly sometimes kinda slowly in between, but like cutting out, not like dropping voltage, like a loose connection. Have good ground. when I lost my accessory ports it wasn't as soon as I installed the gauges, I lost 1 at a time and about a half hour later me and an electrician friend were working on the car we lost the ignition port, the always hot. he worked on car electrical systems before and has not run into this problem. I am at a loss. car has a new motor, new transmission, new dash and new gauges I really don't want to put in a new harness at this time because of the cost of everything I have already done. new alternator too I should mention. am I missing something a relay possibly?

Thank you so much sir, can't wait to install!

Thank you sir, pm sent. Anyone w a 72, is pink seatbelt warning light? Believe this was the first year of this option

Oh yeah, 72 monte

Ok, new custom dash ready to drop in. dash side is wired with plugs now I need to wire in the plug for the car side. Here's apic of the dash. http://m.flickr.com/photos/shop2cents/8109217387/lightbox/ can't tell but the color is black cherry, like the rest of the car will be. Question is can someone tell me the wire colors that enter the plug at the circuit at the back of the gauges? What I have & correct me if I'm wrong. Tan- gas gauge dark tan- brake warning light Pink-seatbelt warning light Brown-gen warning light Green-high beam Light blue pair-left turn signal Dark blue pair-right turn signal Dark blue single- temp warning light Dank green-? gray-dash lighting Not worried about any of the idiot lights, new sensors & all that but I want to eliminate all the useless wires while I'm there. I have searched online&the forums but perhaps I'm not using the proper search terms. Any help would be helpful. Thanks!

Thanks

Ok, blew the rear end in my 72, a friend of mine has a 80 elco for parts he can give me, question is would it be compatible? Or how about the guts if the widthis not the same?

Yes. I know a little bit about cars. But not alot.the last post of 'alternator compatibility ?' I stated I found the regulator behind the vacuum canister on the coresupport. After calling the manufacturer today my mistake was using the jumper wire. There were no instructions on converting a system. They assume it is sold as a replacement for a system which has already been converted. Instructions on conversion come in the 'conversion kit' sold separately. Thanks to everyone who helped!

and this site right here shows an alternator conversion but from what I can tell from the original diagram the jumper wire goes to the opposite post what do you guys think alternator conversion link number 2

and if you look at this diagram I found online, I know that's a buick site but it still a gm vehicle it mentioned nothing about jumping from the post to the hot prong on the alternator like in the diagram in my last post alternator conversion

okay if you see my previous post I'm having a new problem. after connecting everything the way that the link had showed me my alternator gets hot when everything is connected. anybody have any ideas? I followed the diagram exactly. Sorry to be such a pain in the b*** but I think that I did everything correctly I just don't know what to do at this point.

And done. All is good thanks guys!

Nope.behind the vacuum canister on the driverside of the core support. Thanks all. Anyone wanna tell me what the other lil box I described is?

Thanks mike, Jason by the way! My 72 regulator looks to be mounted on the AC suitcase not the coresupport is this correct? I understand the diagram I just want to make sure I'm looking at the right part.

Oh, I forgot to mention, internet purchase, so one week no car due to msil & charge my battery every night. from everything I've read online it seems like it should work together but I don't want to fry 100 dollar alternator that's brand new

Yes, but I need my car tomorrow, so im thinking if it does not work together I will just have to put in the old alternator and charge the battery and let the battery go dead again

if there is a moderator on here can you please move this electrical my mistake

[img:right]http://m.flickr.com/lightbox?id=7665386738[/img] This work?

hi I am a long time lurker on these forums but a new member and I have a question that possibly I could get some help here with. I recently ordered a higher output alternator then came stock in my vehicle because I had installed a stereo and amp and was having trouble with the charging system. since I've only on the car about 6 months I figured it was time for a new alternator anyways and see if that would help my problem ias the battery is new as well. So my new alternator arrived but the plug is different. I actually have the other kind plug in some spare parts I have from a different project. The alternator that came on my vehicle has a plug with two parallel prongs as well as the post on the back of the alternator. The new alternator has a different type of plug where the prongs are in line with each other instead of parallel. My question is if I swap the plugs is the alternator going to be bad for my electrical system. Is there a difference in the alternator itself besides type of plug used. how do I determine which wire goes to which lead on the back of the alternator, assuming that I can just swap plugs and use the new alternator.

Had the same problem. de compressed the springs. moved down the compressor in the spring (more toward center) recompressed the springs lowered the a arm w a floor jack a bit & removed the spring compressor