Priming oil on a SBC 350

[Srender88]

Just installed my oil dip stick tube. Going to try to prime the oil pump. I have an oil pressure gauge attached. Will this oil priming tool work ? and is this oil ok? Will the position of dipstick clear headers? 
 

Looking for any tips and tricks 

[Scott S.]

Now there's a tool I haven't seen in a loong time.

Most rebuilders usually just use an old distributor shaft, but this tool should do the trick. The nice thing about it is that it has the bearing and sleeve at the tip so it won't slip off the pump connection. Makes it a more stable process. 

As for the oil, everyone's going to have their favourite. 

This stuff should work, but remember to change it as recommended.... 500 miles ??? i believe ??

The dipstick looks O.K...... But depending on who's headers you install, there "might" be issues ??? 

I don't think you'll have an issue, though. The master cylinder would be more of an issue. 

[DragCat]

The tool should work fine, I used something similar. Did you build the engine or someone else? ( I noticed the AFR heads) 😁 Most engine builders have their own "recommendations" on break in procedure. I had to do 2 break ins with my crate, never remember in the past doing more than 1 Below are recommendations from my crate motor just FYI 

The engine should be primed with oil prior to starting. Follow the instructions enclosed with the tool. To prime the engine,
first remove the distributor to allow access to the oil pump drive shaft. Note the position of the distributor before removal.
Install the oil priming tool, part number 141-955 from our licensed partner www.factoryperformanceparts.com. Using a 1/2"
dill motor, rotate the engine oil priming tool clockwise for three minutes. While you are priming the engine, have someone
else rotate the crankshaft clockwise to supply oil throughout the engine and to all the bearing surfaces before the engine is
initially started. This is the sure way to get oil to the bearings before you start the engine for the first time. Also, prime the
engine if it sits for extended periods of time. Reinstall the distributor in the same orientation as it was removed.

5. When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow the oil sump
and water temperature to reach 180°F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration runs.
6. Once the engine is warm, Double check the total advance timing is 32° at 4000 RPM if using the deluxe engine
configuration.
7. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle
(WOT) or sustained high RPM accelerations.
8. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
9. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
10. Change the oil and filter. Replace with 5W30 motor oil (not synthetic) and a PF454 AC Delco oil filter. Inspect the oil and
the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.
11. Drive the next 500 miles under normal conditions or 12 to 15 engine hours. Do not run the engine at its maximum rated
engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load.
12. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning
properly.

 

[420ponies]

The big question, did you build it or did machine shop do the machining and assembled it for you. They would have a "break-in " procedure for the engine if any warranty. Getting it "primed" is a big deal especially if it has a flat tappet grind camshaft/hydraulic lifters. Mark's write-up is a good one to go by.If you need help on the run -in of the motor,we're her to help you. I just did a break-in of my BBC427 not too long ago.

                                                                                                          

Almost forgot, I think I need to send you that bracket for the power steering pump you see in the picture from Scott S. that bolts to the header. I do have it if you need it.

Edited February 23 by 420ponies
added content

[Srender88]

420: I had a machine shop do all the main work. (intake, lifters, pistons, rods, heads, rings, bearings, cam, oil pump, etc ) Im just installing the accessories. It is a hydraulic flat tappet cam 🫣. I’m nervous about this break-in. 

Also 420, I have a power steering bracket installed. I attached a picture. Do I need another one ? 😅

DragCat :  I want to do the beak in on an diy engine stand. Do you think I should take it to machine shop and let them do the break in? 

[Dtret]

I’d be careful with doing that on an engine stand they are awful tipsy. If the machine shop put the engine together and they have the means to run it , I would let them do it. I know it’s an added cost but if anything goes wrong they can’t blame it on you and void any type of warranty. 

[Srender88]

Sounds like a plan @Dtret

[bob 71]

looks like a healthy motor. what h/p and torque? as stated if the machine shop will run it that would be best. a few xtra dollars is worth piece of mind

[DragCat]

X2 what Dennis said about the engine stand. 

I would definitely ask the machine shop "their" recommendation for the break in procedure. If they also have a dyno that would be a plus for me having them do it. 

Doing it yourself with it in the car isn't a big deal as long as you follow all the steps. But there are other things to keep in mind. You didn't mention the carb, the dizzy, where you need to set the timing and possibly adjust the carb. 

Another my .02 if you do it yourself. Have a knowledgable friend with you at start up. You need to be able to check all you gauges while someone else is checking for leaks or vice versa. Remember all your connections/lines are new, FUEL being primary (don't want to start a fire) and all the other fluid related lines. Wouldn't hurt to have the rear tires off the ground (jack stands) to test the trans shifting while you're at it. 

 

 

[420ponies]

20 hours ago, Srender88 said:

420: I had a machine shop do all the main work. (intake, lifters, pistons, rods, heads, rings, bearings, cam, oil pump, etc ) Im just installing the accessories. It is a hydraulic flat tappet cam 🫣. I’m nervous about this break-in. 

Also 420, I have a power steering bracket installed. I attached a picture. Do I need another one ? 😅

DragCat :  I want to do the beak in on an diy engine stand. Do you think I should take it to machine shop and let them do the break in? 

Hi Shawn, the A/C brackets I sent you will have a bracket placement for the power steering pump on the outside (driver's side) bolting to it. I'll get that in the mail ASAP! I noticed it in my box of brackets, and after I sent the others to you I thought "that bracket is for the small block chevy"  The Motor looks great. Lot's of suggestions on what to do next. Like I said, we're here to help in anyway. Keep us posted on the progress!

 

[rsorg]

hi, with the distributor out i would get an old screw driver cut the handle off, or get some round stock heat up the end to be like a flat blade screw driver and put it in a drill and turn the oil pump to prime oil thru the motor

[stangeba]

I was trying to remember how I did this back in the 90's when I rebuilt my 350.

I wonder if you run the drill motor clockwise or counterclockwise?

[jft69z]

1 minute ago, stangeba said:

I was trying to remember how I did this back in the 90's when I rebuilt my 350.

I wonder if you run the drill motor clockwise or counterclockwise?

Clockwise

[Scott S.]

4 hours ago, jft69z said:

Clockwise

Like an Orange ??

[DragCat]

2 hours ago, Scott S. said:

Like an Orange ??

Thats a reach 🤣 

[420ponies]

The reason that you use an old distributor housing is that it directs the oil thru the lifters. With just a " screwdriver" , no oil goes through the lifters( galley).