Kevin Wiles

That is very similar to the Bobby Allison Air Dam that I will need to get fabricated.. The difference is its not rounded and chamfered up at an angle. Instead it has sharp corners, and it looks to be unpainted aluminum or silver sheetmetal.

bumper guards were optional even on ss. the black rubber strip along the rear bumper on 71 was standard on ss

All 71 montes came with the displacement sticker. No matter which engine it has. On the other hand, 72's did not have the displacement sticker at all.

If the 70 monte was made at a "late" build date like may june or even july, it will have the NON halo style top. The non-halo style was probably phased out in mid april of 1970 and was no longer available. It depends on the build date. The top trim's upper section should be painted the color of the vinyl top. For instance, mine is a 1970 Monte Carlo built in June 1970 so it has NON halo style and the trim is painted black all except for the "lip" which is small at the bottom part of the trim. The paint on this trim usually wore off after just a few years. [This message has been edited by Kevin Wiles (edited 06-19-2001).]

Another color question: has anyone tried spraying a gold cadmium looking color on the brake booster? If so can you lead me in the right direction.

Rob, you're not alone there. I also checked that picture. Looks black to me too.

What is the original color for the hood hinges and springs for a 70 monte? I have heard it was a dull aluminum color for the hinges and black for the springs. But, I always thought they were all black. can anyone confirm this? [This message has been edited by Kevin Wiles (edited 06-11-2001).]

I must get one of these for my 72 project. "I like it alot" -jim carrey voice from dumb and dumber

yeah it says "sealed beam" and my monte actually has one still on it. talk about a long life for a bulb!! ------------------

no, not all of them were like that. My 70 did not but my 72 did. My guess is that certain plants did it differently. Or maybe certain plants at certain build dates? Mine is a 70 built in atlanta built in June of 70. It has body color paint on the rockers (black cherry) and since it has a late build date for a 70 model, it has a non-halo style top like all 71's and 72's had. It is also rumored that late built 70's possibly had 71 style hood ornaments.

Yes, that could be arranged. I have a lot of work to do on the site. Many new pics for the photo album and such. This would be good for the tech info section. Now, anyone who has black paint on the rockers, tell me where your car was built and what year it is. thanks

Today I didnt feel like crawling under the car but I did replace the plug wires. When I cranked the car it sounded noisy around the flywheel. (remember there is not any bellhousing or anything) Sounds like its lightly scrubbing something. Perhaps I will have to adjust my starter to comply with the new flywheel?

Thanks Mr.70monte with what you (here) and clock (in the general forum) have told me I still have some hope!!!!

Ok, today I removed the old flywheel and put on the new one. It was quite a pain under the car and in an odd position where it feels like the flywheel weighs a TON! It is a lot heavier than the other one. It was hard to get the holes lined up too. I meant to check to see what size bolts go into the flywheel to hook the pressure plate up but I forgot. Does anyone know? I'm talking about the outermost bolts (6) that holds the pressure plate on. This is the part tomorrow where I'll need the clutch pilot tool to line everything up then put the bell housing on and then the main part. I plan to put everything in and then drill a hole just for reference where the shifter is then use a cutting wheel to cut out a hole in the hump. Once again I could use a little advice. Is this the way you would do this? What size square or rec. hole is this supposed to be. You guys are the greatest! Thanks so much for the help so far. I really could not have done this without your help

Today I got a lot done but found a problem... First of all I had to take out the collar where the steering column goes through. I had to get someone to torch out a bigger hole than the one I drilled. Then I installed it and put the rod through the boot and hooked up the brake pedal to the rod to the master cyl. Then I bolted the column back up. It was nice to see the finished product: Today while working on it I saw the mail lady put a package in the mailbox and it was the frame bracket from Dennis! I continued to work by painting up the bellhousing chevy orange and took the ball joint out of the bellhousing and screwed it in the block of the engine. Then I bolted up the frame bracket with the screws provided. It was a perfect fit. I put the z bar in the 2 ball joints and connected the clutch rod. The clutch rod fork was already attached to the z bar. Heres a pic: Now heres the problem.... the Z bar will not move properly because it hits the headers. This proves my theory that headers get in the way of EVERYTHING. *sigh* Anybody got some shorty headers or high-flow mani's for sale for small block? To see the assembly instructions from chevrolet go here: http://www.firstgenmc.com/assem1.jpg and heres one that shows more of the firewall and pedal assembly: http://www.firstgenmc.com/assem2.jpg Kevin Wiles ------------------

I took it off today. Didn't find it. What a bummer.

I bet y'all think I got lazy with the project! Well, I'm currently waiting on a few parts to arrive in the mail so thats my update for now. More to come.

When looking for the build sheet over the gas tank: Is it visable without taking off the tank or can i put my fingers on it........or would i have to take it off to be completely sure.. i'm about to have to give up on finding my build sheet PS. i want it baaaaaad.......

This post is very coincedental because last night I spent 1 hour on my 70 trying to find my build sheet on it. Its not under any of the seats or in the door panels. I changed the carpet about 5 years ago and didnt see it then. I really want this thing bad......I think i'll pull my gas tank.cross your fingers I also heard that if you know the original owner of the car you can find out the dealership it was purchased from and they may have documented info on it. just a rumor I've heard.

Day 5 of my mission: Very cold. The 3 flywheel bolts were VERY hard to get off with me working by myself. First I tried to insert a screwdriver in the belt at the pulley to keep the engine from turning. That didn't work. Then after a while of trying that I tried jacking up the flywheel so it wouldnt move but the jack just rolled right along with the flywheel. By this time I was pretty aggravated so I put a ratchet on and hit it with a big 'ol hammer and they loosened. I had to kick the ignition several times to get the bolts into position so i could put the ratchet on and smack with the hammer. Finally it was all disconnected BUT the tranny fell onto the headers and wouldnt come down all the way. So, I had to jack up one side and hit the other side with my trusty hammer to get it off of one header. Then I just let the jack down slowly and put the tranny down on the garage floor. WHAT A JOB! WHEW! I went to the parts store and got a splined clutch pilot tool (its plastic) From this point on should be the fun part....

Godsavethemonte: YearOne, OPG, and Paddock did not have them in stock, so thats why i chose partsplace. Didn't want you to think i was ignorin' ya or somethin.... I'll have to get one of those clutch pilot tools, and I'll see if I can find one with the splines. This is a Borg-Warner 4 spd. so where can I get a boot for the bellhousing for that? Is it the same as a muncie? Is that part completely mandatory? I dont have an assembly manual, but i'm getting one soon. You'd think I'd have such a useful reference as that, but I dont. Dennis: thanks for the help with the bracket. without that i'd have to pay an arm and a leg for one. I'll let you know how well it works

Day 4 of my mission. First of all I supported the engine and then removed the driveshaft. easy stuff.. Then I took off the crossmember. Very hard to turn the nuts, but finally got it. Then i had to get a large hammer to knock it out of place. Then I started taking the transmission to engine bolts out. I took all of them out except the top 2 (i just loosened them) I also took off the flywheel cover. I ordered the shifter rod boot and boot retainer from PartsPlace www.thepartsplaceinc.com $25 for both tomorrow when I have some help, I will take out the 3 flywheel bolts and remove the top 2 trans-to-engine bolts and take the old auto out. Hopefully tommorow I can also get the 4 spd bolted up. I'm not sure how to set up the pressure plate and all that stuff. I have a chiltons book and it shows an exploded view, so I hope that will do the trick. Any other advice on that would be helpful. thanks! KEvin

day 3 of my mission: nothing accomplished.. went out of town. I'll be back for day 4....

Day 2 of my mission: I hope I drilled in the right place. I found the metal collar thing that goes around the column. then i saw the three screws and a plain bare place in the middle of those three screws. So i figured that must be the place. After drilling a small hole i saw that it comes out right in the middle of a hole that is already in the firewall and that hole is surrounded by foam rubber. SO then I was pretty confident that I had the right spot . I continued to drill until I had a hole big enough for the rod to go through and have some playing room. I hope this is the right spot! Pictured above is the inside part and now this is the firewall shot: Where can i get one of those firewall seals? Should be smooth sailing from here now.. only time will tell.. I think the pedals are from a 68 chevelle. [This message has been edited by Kevin Wiles (edited 12-27-2000).] [This message has been edited by Kevin Wiles (edited 12-27-2000).]

Alright now, I am taking the old components off the old Z-bar (grease fitting, fork rod) and I also took the little clip out so I could take out the old ball joint and use it on my new z-bar. After taking out the clip with a screw driver I figured I would be able to remove the ball but its still stuck in there. I can see where there is a ridge around it which won't let it come out of that end. (On the new one I see the valley where the clip goes but I do not see the ridge that holds the ball) I tried banging it through the other end but to no avail. How do I take this out and use it in my new Z?