cbolt

Finished hooking up my fuel lines and took the car to fill the tank. New gas tank, sending unit, straps and all the old vent hoses back there replaced. Everything fit wonderfully and works as advertised. No more of that pesky waaaay past full gauge reading.

Yea, I have the one with three vents and no return on the sending unit. Now the question is, which provides better rust prevention, galvanized or zinc plated? Anyone have any knowledge in this area?

My car was equipped with a charcoal canister when I found it and still has it, but it is not hooked up. Would that matter? I will definitely crawl under it in the morning and count lines but I am thinking the only way to be sure I am getting the correct part is to remove the old one first. Thanks Scott and Steve!

I am trying to order a new tank and sending unit and noticed that there are many different options to choose from. Does anyone know which one would go in the '72 or guide me in determining which one is in my car without dropping the tank? I would like to keep my car on the road as long as possible and still get the correct parts on order, if that makes sense. Thanks in advance.

"Leo" being the common theme here. I didn't know about Leo when I did mine so...... they fit not great.

The contours on the patch panels are not even close to the actual fender contours so you will need to do a lot of "massaging" to get them to line up with the doors and all your trim.

The patch panels are terrible. That is what I did and would never ever ever never do that again. Worst part of my car if you ask me.

Doesn't Leo do fenders? Someone chime in here but I thought he did and my plans are to get both of mine from Leo when I do my paint and body again....

I used an aftermarket trunk lid. The fit was very good and the only complaint I had was the key cylinder indentation is larger than the Monte Carlo one. (I suppose it fits Chevelle and MC). When you put the MC badge on the indent is larger so it shows around the emblem, if that makes sense to you. The trunk lid is otherwise perfect however if you are doing a show car I would see if I could find a good condition factory one.

My wipers work fine, they just need to be "push started" when they are unused for an extended period. The little ball the wiper driveshaft rides on has to make good electrical contact to complete the circuit, if that makes sense. The washers work great, when they work. If I let it sit unused I have to prime the pump first, which I have to say is a complete pain in the neck. All that being said, my car rarely, if ever, sees rain (She is so spoiled!) so I have to fiddle with the wipers when I do need them.

I agree with Scott. The first and easiest thing to do instead of just throwing darts at what you suspect is wrong is taking the battery out and testing it. Your local auto parts place should perform this service for free. It continues to run after it is started which indicates the alternator is providing the necessary voltage. My experience has been that the external regulator is the weakest link in the chain so that would be my next test if the battery is good. Don't expect to get a good voltage regulator right out of the box. I went through about 4 of them before I gave up and changed to internally regulated, with no issues since. Good luck!

I will be converting mine early next year, after the holidays. I have all the hardware for a chevelle console, just have to convert to the burlwood. I have to add the extra harness from the dash to the console and finally add a tilt column. It is a bit pricey but I have been collecting the parts slowly in preparation for the actual conversion.

I just purchased two from.... OPGI... and they are a good product and a nice fit. Mine originals were in better shape than yours but still had the pitting and wear.

More than likely, yes. To be sure check this section for past posts on how to identify the different rear ends. The 8.2 and 8.5's are identified by the pinion nut size and the housing "tabs". There are good pictures in recent posts.

I hope it is a simple fix as well. I adjusted it to P, since I doubt I will use 1, at least until I install my console and shifter. The place where I purchased the trans insisted I did something wrong in the installation and I had to have the car taken to a shop to confirm either their mistake or mine. The owner of the trans shop was a total jerk on the phone, talking over me and not able to control himself once I mentioned it was under warantee. Thanks for the info on the cross shaft (I assume you are describing the one that rotates at the frame and in the trans bracket). I will look into that next week, when I have time.

What would it indicate if the shaft and bracket do not line up?

Long story short.. I bought a trans online from a reputable trans place. After approx. 500 miles I lost reverse and every gear, including park, is forward. (It goes into park but if you hit the gas the car lurches forward anyway) Called said trans place on the phone and they informed me because it is a column shift car I have the shifter set up wrong, causing a clip to either break or come off on the valve body and they will not honor my warantee. When I put the linkage together I moved their shift lever to the park position and attached my linkage with the column lever in park. They acknowledge there is a detent inside the transmission when it gets to the park position (I couldn't move it further than park by hand from underneath). Has anyone ever heard of this before? If so, is it possible I actually had an adjustment to make to prevent this failure? (Yes, that is the short version)

I am a die hard Steele rubber products customer. They have some excellent products and even better customer support. When I did my seals I screwed up some of those plastic tabs that come built into the seals. Even though they do not sell the plastic pieces individually, their customer service rep took the time to research them for me, walk down to the factory and grab a dozen for me and ship them out for shipping only. That pretty much sold me for future rubber requirements. Plus I hear they will custom produce any seal you need but have never tried that out yet. Softseal products are also good and I have used them in the past. They are readily available from most of the suppliers. However, I am placing my recommendation on Steele products based on my experience with them.

Just my .02... a '70 Monte will make any hub caps or rally wheels look good. You cannot go wrong, really.

Installed the shorty plugs yesterday but due to rain, only drove it around the block. Todays forecast is low 70's and dry so I am thinking a nice cruise around Crescent Lake....

Changed the u-joints, intake and valve cover gaskets and went for a drive. It looks like rain so it was a short drive but the car runs so smooth with the new u-joints and no more leaks! I also ordered shorty spark plugs from JEGS, should be here in time for a weekend project and nice long drive depending on that silly hurricane......

I think it is because you are trying to overhaul an open differential and I have never heard of that. The posi units are rebuildable and I have a book detailing the process for both factory posi units and aftermarket units. Be sure to inspect the teeth closely on both the ring and pinion gears and be mindful of where the shims are when you take everything apart so you can put them back in the proper place. Good luck!

836-83-1022-M is the part number for the Richmond Gear "mega kit" for the 8.2" 10 bolt from Jegs. It contains shims, bearings, seals and new bolts for the ring gear. Not sure what an "overhaul kit" contains but I would assume it would be new bearings, seals, and shims (Although why you would need shims if not installing a new differential is beyond me) I just went through the same thing as well, but upgraded to a limited slip differential.

I know exactly how you feel. I started this project, trans and rear swap, back in August. I keep running into things that need replaced or just things I want to replace while I am in there. The "snowball" effect essentially. It may be worse for you as I think your driving season is going to end soon, compared with mine here in Florida. on the bright side, at least my car "sat out" the love-bug season.

Awesome. Can't wait to hear all about it.