Rob Peters

Greg, The discussion of a manual floor shift (3 speed or 4 speed) came up here on the board awhile back and there some here in the club who had factory manual transmissions with bench seats. I know of one here in Pittsburgh which is a factory 4 speed with a bench seat on a 71 so I know they were available. BTW, I saw the build sheet on the 71 factory 4speed with bench seat. As far as a bench seat with a console, that couldn't be done because the bench seat would be where the console would be. Bottom line on a manual transmission with bench seat would be that they are rare but they do exist and as far as them being as rare as a factory SS454 with a 4 speed, we don't even want to open up that can of worms. Until someone can produce a build sheet on a factory ss454 4 speed for us here at the FGMCC, we will assume they don't exist. Now if someone can come up with a factory SS454 4 speed convertible, WITH A BUILD SHEET of course, we here at the FGMCC will be able to go to our graves with a smile on our faces. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Quote: Originally posted by greg72monte: My 72 has the original "Elk Grain" vinyl buckets, an extra cost option. I have no console, which was a separate option. It seems that this was an unusual combination. Does anyone else have buckets and no console? Any feedback? Greg Since the bucket seats and the console were two seperate options, it is possible to see cars the way yours is equipped. I think you will see that combination more often than floor shift with a bench seat. I have seen several combinations as you describe. Rob

Quote: Originally posted by wallaby: Umm...mine has both! I have a full vinyl interior, but as the years go by the stitching in the drivers' seat is letting go, and darned if there isn't the cloth stuff underneath! I thought the vinyl was the original fabric. I have all receipts and show no upholstery work. I don't know if the rear seat is the same way. Is there a way to tell what fabric was used from the trim tag? The trim tag or cowl tag as it is often refered to should indicate the interior type and interior color. Rob

I think originally most were produced with the cloth interior. My original 70 had the cloth bench and my current 70 still has the original cloth interior. This cloth interior held up very well and is reproduced in the original fabrics and colors from many of the reproduction supply houses. Until recently you wern't able to get the interior door panels for the 70 but now they are being reproduced and sold at many of the supply houses. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

I have seen people use Pledge Wipes for this purpose. I use pledge wipes in my engine compartment and they do a real nice job on the plastic without harming it and you get that nice lemon fresh smell. If you are going to try them I would suggest you just try a small area first to see what it looks like. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Mike, I defer your question to those who have vinyl tops and have replaced them. I am responding to welcome you to our second home. You are correct about all the great information people receive here, heck we even learn things in the process of helping others. We hope you will go that extra step and actually join the club and receive our newsletter. I'm not sure where Center Valley is but I am in Pittsburgh, Pa. We have numerous members across the state. Again, Welcome to the board. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Andreas, I like it better than your other one. I think it shows the cars stance much better. BTW.... You ended your post with "What y'all think?"..... Y'all with a German accent is really neat. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

If a car runs on there is a reason and it should be repaired. As I stated above, I would look into the solenoid on the drivers side of the carberator, I have seen these go bad and stick in the energized position. To test this solenoid is easy. It may just be a case of this solenoid being improperly adjusted. I just adjusted mine yesterday and I will try to give a fairly simple explination of how to test if it is working and how to adjust it. TO TEST THE SOLENOID: With the car running, locate the wire plug going to this solenoid. Unplug this wire from the solenoid and the rpm's should drop. To test it without the car running, just turn the key to the on position and unplug and plug in this wire on the solenoid, it should move the bolt head in the end of the solenoid toward and away from the throttle linkage. With the wire connected the solenoid will energize toward the linkage and with it disconnected it will move away from the linkage. If you have someone to help you just have them turn the key on and off without starting the car and the solenoid will energize and deenergize everytime it is turned on and off. TO ADJUST THIS SOLENOID DO THE FOLLOWING: In this adjusting you WILL NOT touch any of the carberator jet screws. The only tow things you will adjust is the Throttle linkage idle screw and the bolt head in the end of the solenoid which the throttle linkage rests on when the solenoid is energized. Now to adjust. Start the engine and bring it to normal operating temperature. With the car running, disconnect the solenoid plug wire. If the throttle linkage comes in contact with the bolt head while the solenoid is disconnected you will need to turn the bolt head in until it is nowhere near the throttle linkage. (you are going to do this so you can adjust the throttle linkage idle screw). If you have a tach meter, adjust the throttle linkage idle screw so the RPM's are about 400RPM's. If you don't have a Tach meter, adjust the throttle linkage idle screw until the car is near the engine stall point. Double check the throttle linkage is still not touching the bolt head in the end of the solenoid. If it is you will have to adjust the entire solenoid away from the linkage. Now reconnect the wire to the solenoid and adjust the bolt head in the end of the solenoid to a normal idle speed. On my car I have found that a nice idle speed is around 650 to 675RPM's. If I go much faster it jerks too much when you put it into gear and much lower than that may cause the car to stall when putting it into gear. I hope this helps someone in adjusting this solenoid. Many people are not aware of the purpose of this solenoid. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

ditto.... Thanks Muchly You are a gentleman and a scholar, your kindness and good nature are only exceeded by your willingness to help others,,,,, I wish there were more like us. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

ditto.... Thanks Muchly You are a gentleman and a scholar, your kindness and good nature are only exceeded by your willingness to help others,,,,, I wish there were more like us. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

This problem you are having is called dieseling. There is a solenoid on the left side (drivers side) of the carbarator. This solenoid has a bold head on it which the throttle linkage rests on. When the key is turned on and you press the accelerator to start the car the solenoid energizes (The bolt head moves toward the throttle linkage). I should say when the key is turned on the solenoid moves the bolt head toward the throttle linkage to be more accurate. You adjust this solenoid, I think by adjusting the bolt head or the position of the solenoid with the bolt head against the throttle linkage for the specified RPM, with the car in gear, when the solenoid is energized. This is the idle speed. You then leave the car running and disconnect the wire from this solenoid. When you disconnect the wire the solenoid should disengage and the RPM should drop. The problem comes in when the solenoid does not disengage from the throttle linkage to allow the rpm to drop when the key is turned off, thus supplying the car with fuel and if the engine is hot enough the fuel mixture can ignite in the cylinders just from the heat and compression, thus the term dieseling... If working properly this solenoid prevents the fuel from continuing by limiting the throttle position and allowing it to drop below the idle speed. Rob I hope this is not too confusing ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

This sounds like something we need to post in the technical section... I would like a copy also since I would like to do this too. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Jadob, First off I would like to welcome you to the First Generation Monte Carlo web site. I am sure someone will be able to help you but I have not done this to mine yet. I know there were some earlier posts on this very subject within the past year. There were posts on 4/30/01, 8/13/01 and 9/22/01 but right now we are having some problems with our web server and some things are not working properly. If I remember correctly it is not the easiest thing to do and you must take great care in removing the instrument cluster. It is easy to break mounting tabs and damage the printed circuit board. I am sorry I can't give you more information but the above is what I remember. I would hold off until someone who has done this can give you the pointers you need. If you don't get any response in this section of the board I suggest you repost your request in the General section. We hope you will also consider becoming a member of our club, there are a number of members from the California area. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

As soon as I get a new tach/dwell meter and get the dwell set I will want to set the timing. According to the specs it should be set a 4 degrees before top dead center. I cleaned off my indicator gage on the engine and noticed it has the marks but the only number it has is the "0" so there is no way of telling 4degrees. It has been a long time but if I remember correctly each hash mark is 2 degrees which would mean I need to go to the second hash mark. Now, also on the indicator gage on the engine is the letters "A" and "R" which I assume would be "A"dvance and "R"etard. So, keeping this in mind would 4 degrees before top dead center be toward the "A" or the "R"? I would assume it would be toware the "A"dvance rather than the "R"etard. I also thought these indicators on the engine had a saw tooth at each mark but mine has no saw tooth, only a flat side. Rob

Allen, If you can get a complete NOS set for $250 I would do it since the cheapest reproduction set I know of is $249 from Muscle Cars Only and the clip kit is another $50. Here is the link to the moulding Jim has at Muscle Cars Only. http://www.musclecarsonly.com/7072MCMOLDINGS.html And here is a link to his web site: http://www.musclecarsonly.com/ by the way, It is my personal opnion the reproductions are not as nice as the NOS. I hope this helps. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

Listen to our "TIN MAN" offering help to another member. You know the TIN MAN in the "WIZZARD OF OZ" didn't have a heart but I would have to say our "TIN MAN" has one that is huge.... Thanks Carl for everything you do, you are great. Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

BlackCherry, To the best of my knowledge the all First Gens came with the front plastic inner fender wells.Mine are in very nice shape with no cracks. The only thing I would like to do is get them and the shroud to look a little brighter without painting them. Does anyone know of a product which will bring a little luster to them without painting or leaving a film which will just be a dust magnet? Rob ------------------ Go Car or Show Car, it doesn't matter, you are welcome here

First of all welcome to the web site. I hope you will join the club. We have a great group here, a very nice newsletter and fantastic Club Logo thanks to member Dave Mau. I know the 70 350 had one and I would assume the 71 did too. Most of the good parts suppliers will be able to tell you. I am sure others here will know for sure. Rob [This message has been edited by Rob Peters (edited 06-30-2001).] [This message has been edited by Rob Peters (edited 06-30-2001).]

Yes there is but I can not tell you what the difference is. I am sure someone here will be able to fill you in. Rob

Does anyone out there know if the Halo vinyl/two tone paint roof trim was available on all three years of the first generation. I have the two tone paint and my car has this Halo style trim. I have seen both but don't know if it was available all three years. Also, does anyone know what percent had the halo type and what percent had the trim going all the way to the windshield moulding. If nobody knows these percentages maybe people could respond with their year and what style theirs has or had. Rob

Kevin, I don't know for sure but as a reference I looked at the photo album at Art's SS and they look black in the picture of his engine compartment. It looks like he tried to get that car as close to original as possible. Just my 2cents worth but not sure. Rob

If you have ordered the restoration package from GM by calling 1-800-222-1020, all the option codes are listed in this restoration package. It is a free package. Rob

Yes they are, also the cutlass. I don't know of anyone who sells them aftermarket so the junk yards are your best bet. Rob

Jim, I know what you mean about the Snow. A week ago this past Sunday it was in the 70's here in Pittsburgh and now SNOW, SNOW SNOW..... Since we are to the south west of you, our weather will more than likely be heading your way. Tonight at 5:30 the weather man here said "The snow has ended for Pittsburgh today" I looked out my window and it was snowing to beat the band and we have gotten almost 2 inches since he said the snow was over for us... I live within 2 miles of the TV station. Rob

As Andreas said above. Just to add, Andreas mentions the clip you must slide to remove the one part on the drivers side. This is the smaller arm which is called the articulating arm. Be very careful removing this that you do not damage the small stud it sits on because if you do you will have to replace the entire wiper transmission assembly. When prying the large portion of the drivers wiper arm you may notice a small locking tab on this which if you have someone release some of the pressure from this locking tab while you pry with the large screwdriver you may find it easier. On the drivers side, I would remove the small articulating arm from its stud prior to the large to avoid damaging the small arm stud. For the passenger side, It should come off much the same as the drivers large portion with the locking tab. Just a note, The one on the passenger side is keyed so it can only go on one way on to the stud but the drivers side is not keyed. Rob