Blake350

Leghome ,given my application resembling a little old lady (you know the type-doctor on Wed,church on Sun-now if i could only find one with an all original 70 MC,lol)-I probably dont need to go that far!! But after seeing Dave's reccommendation, I ordered a Pertronix flamethrower HEI unit. I read that MSD calls the streetfire the first entry into the 'economy' market-with some parts being produced 'offshore' with "periodic" inspection of quality-and if you want true MSD qualiy,all built in Texas,go with the pro-billet or other higher product-not giving me that warm feeling all over... Seems the Flamethrower has 6 models-three cap colors with a cast finish,three cap colors with a polished finish-seems all the bushings,gears and coil/modules are the same?? So we'll see what happens.. Brian

Hey Dave thanks I looked at the 1050 and 1000 pertronix units after your reply-couldn't find the differences between them, but they too look good. Mike, I dont need the 'small cap' OEM look- the regular HEI style is just fine if thats what your referring to. My thoughts out loud on the gear-In an ideal world you start with a new cam and a new dist-both gears to factory drawings,and they 'wear in' together wonderfully. But now with a well worn cam gear and a new dist gear is the MSD,GM,or Pertronix better or worse for any reason? I'm thinking with this application any of these units would be better than the unknown 'smog' unit in there now and could probably sleep on the job-but if anyone else has used one or the other with very good or very bad results(Dave I know you have the 1050 and you put out some performance, I'm sure- so the extra 100 bucks might be worth it for me as well) it would be good to know ahead of time. thanks!! Brian (the reason I looked at the MSD streetfire is the brass contacts,overall perceived quality and that almost all the big HP engines out there i see have MSD equipment of some sort or another handling the spark)

Hey guys I have a generic 'remanufactured' HEI distributor for about 8 years-of unknown quality-the car has been cutting out now and then-rpm drops to zero then pops rite back up ,or it stalls. Thinking maybe pickup coil is breaking down or something-no expert on exactly how HEI system works Anyway,looking at the MSD streetfire #8362 at $133 (jeggs) or the GM performance unit at $147 (jeggs 141-682) The engine is a 350 with a mild comp cam from at least 8 to 10 years ago. It is a sunday street cruiser-all of its life is under 2500 rpms with hiway cruising at 3400 rpms...thats it. Run about 2000 miles a year or so. In reviewing our engine tech forum pls help with the following- a) given the usage,would either of these units be adequate or more than adequate? Dont think I need to go into the $350 or up range unless you guys think so- can go up a bit but not if it wont matter for performance or reliability given the usage b)like that both have adjustable vacc advance-thinking that should be more than enough tuning flexilbility as I dont have any adjustment with whatever is in there now c)is there any concern with gear compatability-again a 10 year old comp cam flat tappet unit-the MSD has same gear ar the pro-billet family("proven metallurgy under the harshest conditions")as the ad reads. The GM unit has a melonized gear-wondering if either posesses a problem with this existing cam. I am leaning to tha MSD unit but wont make a purchase until I get you guys opinions thanks! Brian

Thanks Mike-I vauguely remembered 'under over and square' were in there somewhere-but I had it reversed after all those years-makes sense-the higher rev vs higher torque on the 2 combos- I do find all the theories of operation and the way air fuel and fire react in different mechanical combinations to give such diverse power curves quite interesting-these engine threads always provide great info-so I will step off and let the discussion continue ... brian

I like that listing showing all the various bore/stroke combos-I notice most of them have a relatively short stroke relative to the bore-I remember hearing when the stroke is shorter than the bore dia the engine is referred to as 'undersquare' was this just a local talkin after too many Michelobs? But does that configuration make for a more mechanically sound engine? I would think it would less inertia with a smaller stroke-just thinking out loud-engine gurus please comment/set me straight thanks Brian

Bruce is right about that-especially with carbs-if what you have has worked well and only needs a 'softparts' or 'wearout' items rebuild,probably better to go the reputable shop/your part route. I only paused to comment cause it reminded me of the auto parts store I worked in 30 years ago- Cardo carbs were the worst-the way they were thrown around in shopping carts as cores before even leaving our place was pretty scary. Starters and alternators were just about as big a crapshoot-rumor was our "rebuilder" threw on a coat of paint- set of brushes if you were lucky-and not much else!! Brian

Haha yeah tell her shes got an engine to keep her warm-hands off those covers!!

I like to get out on Sundays for a bit of a drive-as others around here have had to deal with,the searing heat followed by a nonstop wet September put a drag on things-BUT then came October- on 10/2 took my girl out with me for an afternoon and had a great time-beautiful day,sun dancing thru the trees, car purring, great tunes,nothing but gleaming Monte hood ahead of the windscreen-total bliss!! Then,last two Sundays-out alone-and a great time ,but to expand on Tony's thought-for me taking my girl with me is great but running alone can also be great-man music and machine-the tunes are louder,cigar smoke a bit thicker,right foot a little heavier...ah what a joy to own a first-gen Monte...seven years now,and it just doesn't get old...and yes sometimes its nice to forego stopping at an event when just driving is the order of the day! Finally,as its been a while, I got out there and waxed her up on tuesday-going to one of the last local cruise-in/shows this Sunday-will be seeing some of the folks that were at the 9/11 tribute show at the American Legion(that was moving-American pride in the parking lot and at the podium). So,about the waxing,I always start at one fender and work my way around-and end with the hood-I'm thinking,damn this thing is huge-when does it end!-being like most machines owned by men, she's a woman-and i figure if exhaust pipes could talk and not just sing,it might go like "Well Brian you didnt seem to mind my hood last Sunday when we were driving,so just deal with it,and keep polishing!!" Its alot of fun and I hope to get a few more runs before the weather shuts us down!! "Happy Monteying to all" Brian

There are a couple of good threads in the engine tech forum that might be helpful-I just did the core,AC delete,and inner fenders last winter. The core like many other jobs takes care and patience(unless you do them every day)but it is not THAT bad. Remove the dash PAD-it takes just seconds and makes peering in and dealing with the air ducts so much easier. There is one bolt that holds the core casing from the INSIDE-remove all the bolts off the studs on the firewall side and one can go nuts wondering why the darn thing still wont break loose. Carefully lower the case onto the floor as vaccuum lines and a bowden cable are attached. After 5 years,it is great to have heat again for those beautiful autumn and early winter drives!! Keep us posted-good luck!! Brian

Seeing both those cars in the same image is really cool...Davey seems to be pulling that wheel higher and higher...thats got to be a good thing-I know that if ANY of my 4 wheels ever leave the ground,it only means I'm in BIG trouble!!(or I'm fixin a flat)

I think Sam is onto something-if it was fuel it might not be so abrupt-more like a sputter-this happened twice with me-first time it was the pickup in the HEI distr-then again a few months later cuts out and back in just like that-a loose connection in the 12v supply to the replacement distributor-those three connectors that plug into the coil are hanging vertically as you know-subject to vibration,etc... i cleaned up the contacts,and 'snugged up' the terminal connectors a bit-and have been rock solid so far...

Andreas,thanks-I checked out parts place and it says the speedo end is a clip-type arrangement-is this true-if so,out goes my plan. Bruce,the unit looks like it has been there forever-if I recall there is a button built into the end of the turn signal lever-I am guessing at this time it is OEM--how difficult is it to gain access to the rear of the speedo?? Your original owner sig caught my eye the first time,and every time-I was also cutting lawns,delivering papers,etc right after that time but never turned it into a shiny new first gen-thats fantastic!! Lastly,Kenny guys like you, Jared,and others DO have exceptionally good taste in autos( altho we may be a bit biased in providing that opinion,of course)-it ensures a new generation of stewardship over these fine machines that have survived so long- I bought mine when she was 36-how would that have even been possible without all the previous owners acting as protective guardians-sort of like 'passing the torch'-in this case a very large and heavy one!! Ok,end of rambling-if anyone can shed some lite on pulling that cable it would be helpful thanks Brian

Here's one I haven't seen discussed before-I am ready to change out the left inner fender and in the process want to delete the cruise control unit mounted atop it(sort of reminds me of the 'lunar module' used in the Apollo moon program-wonderfully functional in its day,no doubt- but not the prettiest choice to adorn one's shiny new inner fender) Problem is the speedo cable-or cables as it is now.The input to the unit from trans(TH350) has a 5/8" dia threaded retaining nut,with approx 3/8''of inner cable exposed-the output to the speedo itself has a 7/8" dia nut with approx7/8"of inner cable exposed. What is the fitting size at the speedo?Can I simply swing the cable from the input to the cruise right into ther speedo?(the casing looks long enough if the fitting is compatible). If I need a totally new cable assembly,you know the next question-where to procure a quality unit? Lastly,can access to the rear of the speedo be obtained by only removing the dash pad,or is there more involved? Thanks,as always-I would rather know whats involved and have proper parts ahead of time... Brian

Oh no Andy you had to remind me-LISTEN!! Oh you mean I should START listening now??How bout I STOP right about now!! Yes,very annoying-almost as bad as "YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN" thrown in after every few words-no,I dont think I do-can ya repeat it another 17 times...just too funny... Brian

In the winter 2010 issue of Hagertys magazine theres an article titled 'steering wheel revival' with a bunch of vendors listed. This may be of interest or helpful to you.

thats the one thing I overlooked as well-GASKETS!! I had Hedmann headers put on a couple of years ago(they fit and are holding up great) and didnt know any better-the thin fiber gaskets didnt hold up too well-I am putting some mr gasket 'ultraseal' units in there which should be much better-such a cheap item-but who knew the first time in-live and learn!!

Yes,it is just for bolts and two hoses-once you get everything else out of the way!!-just like with anything else,proceed slowly,note how everything came apart so you can reverse it later without making yourself crazy,and keep track of all the nuts and bolts. Just 'crack' the pump bolts loose carefully in case they are weak(a sheared bolt here could be a horror show),and (if I remember correctly)two pump bolts are into coolant-make sure they bare cleaned and resealed before reassembly-have fun!!

Something else came up after i posted-would the formula have to be adjusted depending on tranny used,as I would assume there are differences between the various automatics,not to mention 3 and 4 speeds??

Yes,thanks Allan-why didn't I think of that -AARP is already after me(I thought they had the wrong address till I checked a calendar-is it THAT late already!?) So if by some miracle I'm still above the lawn grass 40 years from now,the second one will be remembering where the car is,getting in and running the heat-even if the core is leaking,I'll never know!! The parts are en route-wondering if the core is dust like the bottom third of the radiator was-i'm gonna try and make it nice,and maybe my kid will even help with some pictures-so you know it happened!!) I figure just cut out the wiring till just before the blower motor stops working,then we're good to go!!

Luke if you have a tach there is a simple formula based on RPM,MPH ,and tire size-just if you want to confirm your findings...

Al,thanks for that-I will contact parts place for the plate-and ,yes I have fond memories of at that trip as well(at least I remember most of it lol) We missed you at the GM Nats this year altho the NY faction was well represented as usual-get out there next year and refreshments are on me!! I'm figuring if heater cores are anything like appliances and car batteries,there are only a few manufacturers under many brand names so most of them are equal.But since it is such a chore to extract,if anyone knows of one that has superior mat'ls or workmanship it is probably worth the extra cost.I guess you were happy with the Napa unit?? Once its all out hopefully I can get some input with regard to the electricals that need to remain. Tim if at all possible you should try and come to Carlyle as well-if you remember Greenburg,next year should be a huge turnout if history is any guide... Oh,Al remember- hands in lap,feet on mat, no sliding around on the seats-and no unicycle racing once refreshments are served -we want you and Rob to remain in one piece each...

After a couple years of taking short cruises till the fingers go numb,its finally time to turn contortionist and deal with the core.I also want to complete the ac delete and install one of those small pan covers that I've seen on so many of our cars at the meets.Just want to get an overview of any things to watch out for from you guys that have already been in the thick of it... a)The all brass core from autozone-a good choice,or is there a better one? b)if theres a difference,which core do you go for in a 'used to have AC but not any more' 72? c)where can one get the delete pan? d)From previous posts,remove or not remove the dash pad?Seems its been done both ways-I need a bit of education as to which method is better. e)I am just about reconciled to getting under there and carefully pulling the hoses and duct outlets to access the box,with a bottle of Advil nearby so I can stand back up later. f)lastly,will want to preserve blower motor operation-can address this in elec. forum later,but please help with the 2 connectors(pass side front and side of case)as well as relay mounted to top of case-what can be capped and deleted,what needs to be spliced thru,what needs to stay,etc. g)The biggest hurdle seems to be getting motivated to begin(its been a couple of years,and summer seems to come around again just in time)but not cruising on a beautiful clear(but COLD)day is getting me down! Thanks for any help and encouragement you guys can give!! Brian

I'm also glad to have made it there last minute-some new faces,some familiar-a great time from beginning to end and as usual over way too fast!! Now how did Rob even find his computer let alone type early Sunday morning!! There's always a thought at the start of these long summer trips that the old bugger(the car)will get hot and tired at some point-and it never fails that the 'old bugger' does get hot and tired at some point(the DRIVER!!)-the car thinks we're going to California but the body behind the wheel thinks otherwise!! Brian

Rob we'll take that forecast!! You got any conections in the right places to lock that in?? Beats the 98 degrees for Carlisle 05 -and is welcomed over the nail biting rain storms in Greenburg!!

Yes that would be me! "Car 15 reporting for duty!" NAME:Brian Den Bleyker CAR: 72 black smallblock Custom ARRIVAL:scheduled for Friday early afternoon PARTY:2 adults max(I'm rolling either way, even if its just me and the 'ole gal'!) I also registered the car on line and have the receipt-notes "FGMCC"on the order. Rob and Steve thanks again for getting back to me to answer questions-5 years since my last trip to Carlisle and didnt think this could be pulled off last minute! Cant wait!We'll give her the 40th annivesary party she deserves even if some 'professionals' think otherwise!