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DragCat

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Everything posted by DragCat

  1. Thanks Joe, I'll assume the 72 and 70 are the same lol. Weird its not in the service manuals I have
  2. Just wondering if this is the correct description for the fuse box. I couldnt find it in my service manual and some of the letters are worn off on mine .
  3. Thanks Cody, I ordered a set this morning. luckily I used their "related parts" drop down in the search function lol.
  4. Nevermind, found what they are called and yes I need both sides lol
  5. LOL, driver side is sorta in place, gotta cut some more of the exhaust off. Should have both sides done this week, thats my next step
  6. DragCat

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    Dropped the crate in today, The driver side header was difficult because I didnt cut the existing exhaust pipes back far enough and between that and the trans sitting under the car in the tunnel I was having clearance issues lol. We set the driver side in place sorta while we were dropping in the crate. Looks like plenty of room on the passenger side for the install but i'm glad Paul brought up the #8 spark plug issue and Joe add'd his work around. My next step is to cut the exhaust back some more and drop in the passenger side and bolt them in. I'll post an update and pic's when I get that done should be this week for sure.
  7. Big day today, a buddy of mine and I dropped the new crate motor between the rails and hooked up the rebuilt trans (still more work there and I posted a part help ? in the drivetrain thread) Now i have to organize all my bag'd and tag'd items and start the process of putting it all back together. But its progress
  8. Ok so I pulled the x-member and this part was on the drivers side but there was no similar part on the passenger side. I assume there should be but I don't know what its called so I can find one to order since I also assume it holds the x-member in place All help appreciated
  9. Not wanting to steal the thread, but is the fuse box on a 72 the same as a 70 ? I was looking for a diagram (like below) since most of my lettering has worn off and I couldn't find online or in the shop manual I have.
  10. Hey Andy, sorry for the delay, i'm having sketchy computer issues on the forums again. The reason for putting the brakes on the upgrade was the difference on the measurement mounting holes. GForce and the other similar are very specific on the mounting hole measurements and i'm almost an inch off on my existing and thats why I took measurements from the body mounts supplied. I should be dropping the crate in and putting the trans back in this week (fingers crossed) so i'll get back to this then.
  11. Just picked up the rebuilt trans today, hope to be dropping that and the new motor in this weekend. Then stuffs gonna get very real very fast lol
  12. Thanks Andy, that seemed like the obvious direction but as someone once said the only stupid question is the one not asked. I figured someone here had to have done it before
  13. bumping for suggestions
  14. Ok so I was able to get under the car yesterday, just remember i'm working by myself so I had to put a socket on the body mount bolt, use an extension and tape the ruler to that. Then I had to tape them to the frame so there may be some + or - variables lol. The top measurements are from Tom's sheet the bottom are mine. Note 1 I couldn't do the one because the fuel tank is in the way so it would not be point to point. Note 2 on the rear I didn't see a body mount so I measured from the two holes about 6 inches from the back. Note 3 I wasn't sure on the engine x-member which hole to use. Note 4 the trans x-member 1st bolt forward of the center body mount is 4", and the spread between the x-member bolts center to center is 4 1/2". The weird thing is the center body mount on Tom's spec is 53" and mine is dead on to that.
  15. Just to add to previous, thoughts and prayers to everyone. BJ's put limits on the essentials, bottled water and such, which I have no problems with. I will say in my limited outings to the grocery store most of the public has been courteous and good natured, sort of restores my faith in humanity during hard times.
  16. Hadn't seen this one before
  17. Much more detailed than the shop manual one I was using !
  18. Thanks, I'll work off that sheet. I just measured from the top in the engine compartment the forward point and its 39" so its a start in the right direction lol. It looks like i'm going to have to do the others from the bottom so I'll get on that.
  19. DragCat

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    Hey Paul, my crate is still sitting in the cradle waiting on the return of my trans so I can't answer that yet. I know that doesn't help ya
  20. Hey Joe, me take offense ? lol. No worries But no I taped the metal hook to the middle of the bolt holding the x-member. I was surprised at the number so I started with the forward bolt and remeasured the rearward bolt. Both 54 1/2". Maybe I have a station wagon frame ( body mount spec around 28") laughing. Very strange I'm that far off. Oh well going to need further investigation. And yea I've had many a laugh at myself working on cars. I'd rather someone point out whats obvious to them or slips from their experience. Thats why I joined this forum and ask a bunch of questions.
  21. Ok, all I could find in my shop manuals from what i'm reading adds up to max 53" so 53 5/8" on the x-member would be to big.
  22. Ok, 2 part question here, I'm installing a water temp and oil pressure gauge and i'm looking for the easiest and cleanest way to get power to the gauges. Part 1 is for the bulbs that illuminate the gauges so I can see them at night, so tapping into the lights somewhere. Part 2 is for the "electrical" water temp gauge, I need to get power when the ignition is in the run position. I'd like if possible to not have to pull the dash out to wire these in.
  23. All good points Joe, and I am going to have to dig in deeper to it. I just wanted to update the thread that my timeline got kicked out a tad and where I was
  24. Just an update in case someone comes across this thread in a search mode. Right now i'm not doing anything explanation below. I contacted G Force this am because everything I read said their holes were 53 5/8" inch's apart, and even their website description said to use a 1/2" drill bit on the existing holes to fit. I measured mine yesterday (center of bolt to center of bolt) and its 54 1/2". So with all that information in my question their reply was drilling the holes was NOT recommended but if I was any good at fab work (welding and such) they would send me a procedure. Well unlike Joe and others on the forum I have NO fab work skills lol. And no offense to anyone who's done this and offered their experience to me. Since its not "mission critical" for me to continue on my project I'll revisit it once i'm back on the road. I'm just not ready to drop $300 on a part that the manufacturer doesn't recommend doing modifications to make work. Thanks again to everyone
  25. Thanks Tom, thats what I had read about the bolt holes having to be enlarged. I had considered upgrading the engine and trans mounts to poly so I have those in hand, and yes the trans poly mount has 3 holes. Now that you say the ground up X-member will work i'm going to have to make a decision (laughing) but i'm back to leaning towards the G Force at the moment. Summit has a similar piece but Its about the same price so I will probably go with the name brand. Appreciate everyones help and input.
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