Murphy

Great comparison! I like the FlowMasters personnally. I've just installed a set of Flowmaster 44's on a SBC355, I'll try to do something similar to give everyone listen......

MOST SBC350 have an additional mounting hole (towards the block) and is visible without removing the starter. But......you have to slide under the car and look straight up at the starter mounting position, you will see another hole inline with the outward most bolt. This guys name escapes me now but he was really nice & accomodating to questions. I had called other people (retailers) to ask questions before I purchased and NONE called me or emailed me back. Guess who got the business!

Way to go Vince.........persistance is a virtue. When do we get to see the front of that Monte with the new bumper??

I know the front fuel inlet were mostly used on Buick, Olds & Pontiac and that the Chevrolet versions were side-inlet due to the thermostat housing clearance issue....my question is, has anyone used an front inlet version and used a 90 degree elbow on the inlet to make clearance for the thermostat?

Further update...after closer inspection, the plastic connector on this solenoid DOES have 2 vacuum ports! It was turned downward so the ports weren't visible. My apologies! I turned the key to test voltage and the solenoid pops out immediately, there is 11.4 volts on tan, when AC switch is turned on I then see 3.7 volts on green & blue side. Nothing is connected to vacuum (obviously or I would have noticed). I'm going to finish with exhaust install so I can fire the old girl up without waking up the entire neighborhood, I then will report further operation/voltage at that time......

Thanks, Joe..........Half the fun of restoring old cars is the detective work IMO. I'll check out its functions tomorrow once I've finished installing the exhaust system. Later, Murphy.

That's probably correct (TCS solenoid) that explains the different plastic housing but it is about the same size as mine even tho it's label on ebay as "idle Stop" I just found mention of another device called an "Idle Speed" solenoid and I have cut a portion of that doc and pasted it below...... Some air conditioned vehicles with the Quadrajet carburetor use an A/C idle speed solenoid mounted on the carburetor float bowl in place of the idle stop solenoid. The A/C idle speed solenoid is electrically energized only when the air conditioning compressor is engaged (air conditioning “On”) to maintain proper idle speed when the air conditioning is in operation. Normal curb idle speed (air conditioning “Off”) is made using the idle speed screw on the carburetor bowl. This is where I got the notion that it was only on AC vehicles. This document was found on a corvette forum.

Thanks for the additional info 'Topless', I've been researching this as well then your post popped up and you are correct in that the TCS is a different animal as there are NO vacuum lines, only a 2 prong connector which consists of 2 Tan wires on one side and a green and a blue connected to the other spade connector. As I previously mentioned, earlier research I stumbled upon this corvette site discussing the same issue and it was mentioned that this idle stop solenoid was new for 71 and is not mentioned in the manuals until 72. My 71 chassis manual, Haynes manual show nothing! My car build sheet is dated June 28th. I just found the part on ebay "of Course" the only difference with mine and this photo is the plastic connector is shaped differently.

Thanks Joe, great break down. If a carb were replaced, I then assume that the solenoid should be moved over to new carb.

I'll check it out tonight & let U know...I beleive there were 3 wires?????

After reading Cliff's book on Q-jet rebuilding, it has me interested in my on Q-jet. I then discover this really odd solenoid on mine...... This Monte is a 71, SBC350, TH350 with AC. Going thru Cliff's book & website, my Haynes manual and internet searches, I finally found mention of an idle-stop solenoid for AC cars only! Anyone have any more insite?? One comment I found stated "New for 1971" this was on a corvette site....

Excuse my ignorance, when a conversion from auto to manual trans takes place........do you need to make modifications to the Q-Jet also??

After removing the lower access cover on the TH350 it gave me a great visual of the meshing of these components. With the additional shims that came with the starter (in my previous post)and the instructions for precise measurements at the flywheel/flexplate, it was a piece of cake. Even an Iowa farmboy like me could figure it out............

I just installed this mini-starter, http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HEAVY-DUTY-H...b68&vxp=mtr It spins over my SBC350 like it was a Briggs & straton.....It gave me the extra clearance needed with my headers and its less than half the weight.

Did you get your rally's sold?

Outstanding! Thanks David.......off to Radio Shack.

None of the mini-starters I've looked at have the 'R' terminal for power to coil as I still have points-style distributor. Found a note on Summit that mentions adding a diode to coil wire???? I'll be adding HEI soon but I'm in a "pickle, Dick" as entire exhaust is removed, no plugs,etc. Can the coil operate OK without this connection so I can get the new starter/headers-exhaust installed to do test starts to confirm the shimming of the starter?

Hey guys, continuing with my header install, used set of Hookers (2451's) which look new, their really tight against the stock starter (SBC350). Going to definately use a starter heat shield I found at Jeg's. Was wondering if a thicker gasket on the head was an option or do they even make such an animal?? Plan B, I guess) would be a mini-starter.....

That was my 1st thought also, but thought I'd ask anyway.....

Got it, alittle twisting n turning she came out! Next question?? The power steering bracket that attached to the manifold obviously doesn't matchup as the old exhaust manifold was 1.5" thick & the header flange is 1/4" thick. I can't seem to find a p/s bracket spacer on Jegs or Summit. Any suggestions on a spacer??

Test fitting headers on SBC350 w/AC & PS, installing from the bottom on drivers side and can't get the header over the dipstick tube! Is this tube threaded as I can move it side to side but it hits the steering shaft. Or is it just pressed in?

Don't know what I was thinking when I said 15 of 16???There's only 12! Anyway, got the entire exhaust system off, man those manifolds are heavy!! Using new ARP chromoly header bolts, why aren't washers used/included or even locking washers? Is it due to the heat issue?

As I recall, the ticking sound developed after the engine was warmed up and coincided with the RPM's. He must have adjusted/checked lifters 3 or 4 times before he stumbled on the issue. He had Edelbrock aluminum valve covers.

A buddy of mine had a similar problem with a new motor and it was a lifter hitting the valve cover and was only noticed after he was cleaning the inside of the cover and saw a wear mark in the metal.........I think he then installed a thicker gasket??

Well, Sunday I got 15 of 16 out. The old wack it first with a hammer, then try to tighten (just a fuzz) then attempt to loosen did the trick. The last one is closest to the firewall/drivers side..........I'm babying this one as I really don't want her to snap!