kc8oye

rock on.. the monte is now officially a floor shifter all the column shift stuff is deleted except the collar on the steering column

I've got the shifter base welded into the car !! woo hoo.. now I just need to measure and drill the hole for the cable to go thru, attach the cable at both ends, and run the wires for the lighting, nuetral saftey, and reverse lights... problaby just as well the dragstrip didn't know I didn't have a nuetral safe-t switch in the car b4

90A isn't enough for welding 1/8" stock!?! I had it on Min just now (60A) and i managed to burn a hole thru my floorpan.. WOOPS heh

yah it does look nice.. I guess i forgot to include that in the previous post heheheh

now see, dave told me to turn it down!? and it was on 'high' my welder only has a min/max power setting.. I believe are 60 and 90A it varies the voltage a bit too, but I can't remember what it is.

Here's what i came up with to mount my shifter.. please forgive my horrible welding skills... The base itself... http://home.comcast.net/~kc8oye/shifterbase1.jpg and the base with the shifter on it. http://home.comcast.net/~kc8oye/shifterbase2.jpg unfortunately, the bolt at the rear moved during the welding process, and is out of place.. so I either need to REALLY drill that back hole out, or cut the bolt off and try again. there is a 2nd bolt at the back too.. but until I deal with that misplaced bolt, I can't set the 4th one in place. the four legs hanging down will be welded to the trans tunnel (long ones near the seat) and the red thing underneath is a welding magnet.

i don't have pics yet, but I've started applying the bondo top coat :> WOOOO ok I lied.. here are some pics (the speaker isn't attached yet, so it's not quite centered correctly) click on the pic to see the full res version

my hurst has the switches too.. my only real concern with it at this point is the ability to double-downshift with it.. guess we'll see.. i'll use it for a while.. if it becomes a problem, i'll replace it.

yeah.. Qjets are complicated beasts... I kept after mine for 3 years before I finally had enough and tried a holley.

finally.. he sees the light.... lol j/k

if you are interested in top speeds.. do NOT remove the inner fenders... i think it was when they built project super nova on horsepower they talked with some pro. race car builder and he poitned out the inner wheel wells are nescearry to keep the air out of the engine bay.. i believe they were having problems with the turbulance screwing with the carb.. but it's been a while.

ryan.. that's exactly what I did with my front bumper, but I used a different silver, that at the time was going to be my body color... but since I'm doing the car in Duplicolor's metallic Deep blue.. I'm going to repaint both front adn rear bumpers in Brilliant Silver metallic like u.. the cost of rechroming is outside of my reach. i took all my bolts, and cleaned them up nice on the wire wheel. then put nuts back on them so they'd stand up.. and I primered/painted the bolts the same way I did the bumper so they matched when it was all re-assembled

that's where the QJet really shines.. set it.. and forget it...

hrrm thanks scott.. if this hurst doesn't work out, I'll consider that.

it's the _FAN_ that is causing the problems.. the clutch is a seperate issue. use a thermal clutch if you can spare the extra $$$ if you go that route.. then as the air warms up (heated by the rad) the clutch will slip 'less' and make the fan draw more air thru.

FlexFans can not move enough air.. the Clutch doesn't do much for cooling.. the key is, the FAN.. the factory fan is FAR more effecient then those POS flex fans. the clutch simply lets the fan spin faster then the engine when you are moving the air faster then the fan can.. w/o the clutch the fan actully begins to act like a wall and restrict the air flow. I can assure you before you do anything else, you need a different fan. you would be amazed... if you want to see. take the fan off completely and thread some bolts in there.. go for a ride on the freeway.. I bet you it will run cooler. (just don't sit still for long)

yeah... but i'm not fond of the B&M's use of a second lever to release the meachanism..... just personal preference. live and lern I guess... i'm gonna have to call hurst and tell them how disapointed I am at how crappy their $190 shifter is.

get rid of the passenger seat.. taht will save you about 200 lbs right there!! (depending on the weight of your wife and the seat) LOL

the stock monte carlo crossmember should work.. the holes should already be there in the frame. I use an impala crossmember that doesn't require the rubber bushings to the frame like the monte crossmember does, and I just slid it back and it lined up with the very last set of holes in the frame. the TH350 driveshaft will work. you really should measure to be certain, but IIRC, I had 6" taken out of my driveshaft when I did the swap. If I could find the machine shop receipts i'd tell you for sure you will even want to use the TH350 yoke, as it's stronger then a 700r4 unit, plus it saves on headaches when it comes time to change the ujoints. everything else should fit fine, the cooler lines should be the same, the shift linkage fits about the same. I have a column shift car and the shift gate is all shot to Heck so I don't knwo if that makes a difference, but my stock column shifter lets me hit all 4 forward positions L1 thru OD. my gear indicataor in the speedo has never worked, so I didn't even worry about that I'm going to a Hurst ProMatic2 ratchet shifter too...

well doesn't this just suck... there's no way to attach my aftermarket popper to my non-electric release.. . the release has to turn a full 1/4 turn to relase.. the popper can only pull in a straight line about 5/8" .. i drilled thru the outter shell of the latch to get access to the inner workings.. figured out a great way to attach the popper.. but wouldn't u know it. .the steel is so dang hard I cant' even touch it with a drill.

my shifter is explicity for the 700r4 or 200-4r no other trans.

so far, i'm dissapointed... Hurst doesn't even include the correct directions with the unit.. my 383-8511 came with instructions for the 383-8510... so did summit racing's website.. Hurst's Website is useless.. providing only a 1-800 # to call. 8510 is the 3spd, 8511 is the 4spd. and so far as I can tell, this shifter is defective... from Overdrive, you can pull the stick back right past 3rd and into 2nd.. then ratchet back into 1st.. AND you can't mount it to a flat surface.. the ratchet mechanism has to swing past the bottom of the unit for low-1... none of these problems were there on the 3spd model. in the event that it's normal operation to be able to skip from 4th to 2nd... i guess it's nto really a problem, since I really dobut I'd be using 4th gear on an auto cross track anyway LOL

it is sort of the backside in a way alan.. it's the bottom most layer first. allan.. I didn't re-position the speaker any.. it is angled towards the cabin yes.. they won't just point straight in.. i've got just one awkward angle to deal with.. right in the corner by that vent knob.. once I get that taken care of I should be in business. as for the wooden ring, it's exactly the same size as the speaker grill.. I was afraid fhat if I round the corners off too much it will create a gap under the grille and look tacky. when this round of resin drys I'll post a pic with the grille in place.

and rob.. naw... i won't get a swelled head.. i wast just surprised.. seems like i've been eating a lot of foot just lately

Terry.. heh.. I don't even use it.. honestly I don't really know how.. I'm spoiled by digital VOM's these days.. the only thing I really use it for any more is checking TPS sensors on modern cars cuz the needle shows more clearly if the action is smooth or not.