kc8oye

take that flex fan and THROW IT AWAY!! THEY ARE JUNK.. _THEY DO NOT WORK_ put a stock fan with a clutch on it and your problems will go away. or better yet... electric fans.. and the high flow t-stat won't hurt either.

i keep my sender in the side of the head.. because when you get down to it.. that's what matters the most.

no, this will be the front. this is just the first layer.. that establishes the general 'form'.. once I get this done, i'll add a couple layers of mesh and resin.. and then a thin coat of bondo, sand it smooth, paint it.. should look great

i decided to stretch the glass out to the top of the vent controls to make for a smoother transition.. otherwise I'd be trying to pack fiberglas down into a tight area that just wouldn't loook right.

here's an update of the progress

that's odd that you are running 190 with a 160 t-stat tho... i'd maybe take a couple degrees of timing out of it.. and the high flow t-stat might be a good idea.

What kind of fan are you running right now? clutch fan? stock fan w/o clutch? flex fan? sounds to me like you just need a better fan, or an electric fan.. I don't think a high flow waterpump is going to do anything for you. in fact, it could make it worse, by increaseing coolant flow, you reduce the time it has to absorb heat from the engine.

i'm not going to fuss over an extra 20 or 30 lbs in a car that's in full street trim anyway. it's a street first, strip 2nd car.

i like my DynoMax UltraFlows. dead quiet on the freeway.. sound really nice when I get on it

sam, yeah, the one I ordered will.. I didn't relize I grabbed the 3spd model at the parts store.. I returned it and ordered the 4spd from a local speed shop.. the parts store wanted 7-10 days to get teh shifter i hope to have the monte on it's way to the trans shop in the next few days :>

you don't understand what's happening rob. the shifter sits in a center position. LEts say we're in 2 nd(L2) on my 700r4 if I grab the stick and push it forward thru the ratchet mechanism, it will go up one gear into L3 (drive) OR, if I Pull back thru the other ratchet Mechanism it will ratchet down one gear. it can only go one gear at a time in any direction. on the drag strip, from L1 it woule be Push foward, release (2nd), push forward, release (3rd) but the shifter is exactly what I want. it's a sequential shifter. I want to autocross the monte so being able to shift in both directions is awesome the promatic works with either forward or reverse valve bodies since it ratchets both ways at once.

i guess my other post never made it due to my connection problems i picked up a Hurst Pro-Matic ][ shifter from the parts store, and finally got to check out how the ratchet mechanism works... and lo and behold.. it's what I want.. it's a fully directional ratchet shifter! 'sequential' shifter is maybe more accurate. i've seen a couple of B&M ratchet shifters that only ratcheted one way.. ie.. from PArk you pull up on the release lever, pull the shifter all the way back to low one, and let go of the lever. you can now bump up to 2nd, and up to 3rd.... if you wanted to 'downshift', you had pull up on the release lever and 'aim' for the gear you wanted. the hurst promatic is different.. you pull up on the handle and pull back till it stops, that's reverse.. ratchet backwards once and that's nuetral. from there push down and then pull back.. that's drive... then ratchet backwards, that's 3rd etc. once down in low 1.. you can push fowrad and release that's 2nd gear. now from second gear you could push forward and release for 3rd.. or you can pull back and release, and it drops back into 1st. it might seem kind of obvious to people who have had ratchet shifters b4... but no manufacturer makes it very clear if this is how their shfiter works or not! it seems like a well bit unit.. but this poses another question now.. do I Want a full-manual, reverse pattern valve body... this also opens up the option for a trans brake.. .hrrrmmmm...........

heh yeah.. i had that in mind.. 'glass was easier to type: )

i'm not going to add any more material between the ring and the kick panel. I do not want the speakers projecting out into the car any more. I'll setttle for a trade-off in sound to avoid them being in the way. they are going to be basicly in 'free air' because they are going to be hanging out the back of the kickpanel and into the cavity behind the kick panel.. so i guess if all else fails.. stuff it full of fiberglass stuffing

what? I WAS right? *sits down in shock* lol... i've been down that road.. I found out those VOM's from harbor frieght that were on sale for $3... were that cheap for a reason hahah awesome tho... when i'm checking values and they're 'almost' intolerance.. I like to try a couple of different VOM's.. I even have my Grand-dad's analog VOM that was manufactured in 1942 just in case

when /where does it overheat? when you are sitting still? is it ok while you are moving? my mild 350 used to overheat all the time when I was sitting still, or rolling at very low speeds. (I got the engine up around 300^F on woodward first time I went) then i had a POS FlexFan. I pulled the shroud off, junked the fan, and installed an electric fan, and all my overheating problems went away.

i've been having so much trouble with the club website just lately... hit post.. and it just sits there for 20 minutes doing nothing.

well.. here's my start on kickpanel speakers. and yes, I expect them to project backward into that hollow space behind the kickpanel.. I might have to remove a bit of sheetmetal. but that should be no problem The Speaker is a new for '08 Kenwood Excelon 6-3/4" round 2-way

see the other post. stupid internet.

not to speak against the manual.. but I don't really see 3ohms being a problem vs 4-5 ohms.. that could easily be a discrepancy in the ohm meter.. I've seen some VOM's with crazy wide tolerances in the past. I had one that read 3 ohms even with the leads shorted together :>

Why concern yourself with GM parts for stuff that is going to wear out? Unless you are trying for that 'perfect' 100 pt score in a car show for originality, you are better off buying Moog/TRW.. in my Expierence the Moog/TRW (same people) parts are HIGHER quality then the O.E GM ones.. often they are subtly redesigned to improve design flaws. change 'em and drive it!!! it's sure not safe driving on worn out joints! if one of those joints seperates.. it's going to cost you a lot more to fix it! my car is wholely assembled.. it's more like that johnny cash song about the 70-71-72-73-74 car so I just do as I please, and Idon't worry about it.

Thanks for the heads up!

oh.. well I think my small block heads are 049's too!! lol maybe my old heads were... heck I don't know.. it seems the heads I'm using now are 387348's :>

i think that's what I'm using on my monte.. pretty decent heads.

I thinned rust'o'leum with laquer thinner (which they say not to do) and sprayed the underside of my hood with a basic gravity feed gun from harbor freight ($14 on sale) came out great.. it's standing up a lot better then the krylon spraypaint I used on other stuff!!!!! i used 'satin black' for the underside of the hood, and I don't use a pad at all.