kc8oye

I'd agree with that, I have a non-air car and I don't have relays there..

The pulley is as easy it undoing the nut, removing the old pulley, putting the new one back on. but I would recomend getting the crank and water pump pulleys from the same 4.3l.. the serp. belt for the alternator only, IMHO is great idea. The brackets.. I *THINK* no, I didn't measure or test fit one, I just looked at it brand new in the box. The Wiring, I'm going to go back up to the library, and photocopy the info out of the 86's shop manual but you will need to visit a junkyard and get a connector, unless you can find one locally. The guy at advance says he stocks it, but wasn't real sure. basicly, the "F" terminal needs +12v at the mininum, that's all u need. I will provide more details on the other wiring shortly. (I'm gonna write a tech article on this one) yes, ditch the regulator, it is no longer neded. Quote: <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Mike Brichta: That's good information. I am currently having probelms with mine now and was considering some upgrade options. Just a few dumb questions: Is the surpentine pulley an easy swap? Do you need to change any brackets to put it on the car? Are there instructions on how the different ways to wire it in? Can the external voltage regulator be eliminated? Please send me as much info as you have. I would greatly appreciate it. THANKS!!! Mike</font>

For those who are considering an alternator upgrade, I have some information you may like.. the king daddy of alternators, the CS-130, charges well at idle.. output of 105-110A.. It can be wired up in a 1, 2, 3, or 4 wire configuration, depending on how fancy you want to get. The application is a 1986 Chevy Astro Van, 4.3L v6 it's got the old-style mounts that will fit an old school v8 like ours.. They are $73 at Advance Autoparts (www.partsamerica.com) $35 core charge. Part # is P7823-11, Lifetime Warranty It does however, come with a serpentine pulley, so keep your old one.

speaking of tires, I have an interesting situation I have 240/55-415 wheels and tires yes I know, they're wierd they're metric TRX wheels 415mm diameter = 16.3 inches roughly, and I really like how the size looks with the car, so I was thinking about a 245/55-16 wheel and tire .. they're reasonably afordable heh think this size sounds like it might look alright:? http://www.bizarreideas.com/panasonic/kc8oye/Outside/side.jpg

just hook it up to the terminal labeled 'tach' on the hei. that's all I did for my aftermarket tach that used to be wired to my ignition coil on my TBI engine Quote: <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by johnbu: If I replace my stock distributor with an HEI unit, what's the procedure to hook up the stock tach on my monte to the HEI unit. Can it be done? </font>

I got an HEI of ebay for $20 put another $20 worth of parts into it, and had a great working hei till a missplaced hammer blow prematurely ended the dist shafts life.. (until I get some mapp gas) heh

or you could consider somthing like I wound up.. the previous owner was going to install a center console from a 3rd gen firebird in the car b4 I bought it.. when I bought the car, he left the console with it.. so I used it.. and it works well.. it's just sitting there at the minute, it's not secured.. but it's functional, and soon the floor **** will be too let me see if I can remember how to post a pic.. this pic was taken just after I got the car... ah here we go I'll post a url, since it's kind large in dimensions (small file size tho) http://home.tir.com/~tknights/Monte/Interrior/interrior.jpg

A M E N!!! I still can't belive that TH350c I built in high school shop class about 5 years ago and stored for that long worked Quote: <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by George Lines: Glad to hear that everything worked out. There is nothing like after having rebuilt an automatic and having it work. There can be some very anxious moments until you put it in gear and have it move.</font>

can you send it my way too please? Quote: <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by stangeba: MONTEGUY, You have mail with a picture. It's all I have about floor shifters. Hope it helps. Bruce </font>

THey're all A-bodies I don't believe the G-body desgination was used until the late 70's early 80's when the simply changed the name from a-body to g-body so that they could use the a-body designation for the new FWD cars coming out.. ------------------ '72 monte w SBC 'nuff said.

IMHO: WORTHLESS.. Absolute junk. Very undetailed, and very much lacking detail for 1st gen montes. This book tries to cover WAY to much material, in way to small of a space. I'd rather spend the $90 on a Factory Service Manual. (these are ok in a pinch) Quote: <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by MarchieB: Does any one have this book and if so is it any good? (good info and what not) MarchieB [This message has been edited by MarchieB (edited 11-27-2002).]</font>

I had that same problem with my monte earlier in the summer.. turns out I was missing one of the screws that hold the plastic cap onto the end of the starter solonoid, and the cap had split into two pieces. $10 for a new solonoid, and an extra $3 for a heat shield, and it was good as new. ------------------ '72 monte w SBC 'nuff said.

hey guys, figured I'd pitch in my 2 cents.. I found a really cool way around this little problem. the previous owner of my car hacked the radio opening in the dash to install gauges, and then very ugily mounted a cd player under the dash.. lets see here.. http://cars.dozer.com/regulars/tigeraid/monte_gauges.jpg that's what it looked like when he owned it.. the center consle I have, is from a 3rd generation firebird :> let me see if I have a pic of that.. http://home.tir.com/~tknights/Monte/Interrior/FrontSeats2.jpg ------------------ '72 monte w SBC 'nuff said.

This isn't in the tech section could someone please send me the instructions too? I'm interested in replacing the clock with another gauge.. a tach perhaps... that, and I've got a few dozen loose screws in the dash. ------------------ '72 monte w SBC 'nuff said.

Man, I wish I had read this BEFORE I started workin on my IP lights.. would have made my day a lot easier! I found only 2 light bulbs that were good imluminating my dash. one was between the clock and speedo, and the other was over the speedo,b ut the one over the speedo was not seated correctly and was not on... just as an update.. I got 7 new bulbs installed today.. and WOW.. I can SEE the dash.. amazing.. put an interrior light in itoo! so I pulled the idiot light for the oil bulb out and stuck it in there so I can see the whole speedo, as it was too late to stop somewhere and get new bulbs. [This message has been edited by kc8oye (edited 09-30-2002).]

<jumping up and down> OOH OOH OOHO OOOH cna I have your Heater and stuff!? someone took it out of my monte, and I want it back (he removed it with a sawzall and large hammer.. nuff said) lemme know. Quote: <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by George Lines: Yes, these are the wires. I'm removing the blower motor/entire heater/A/C system and covering the holes with flat plates. </font> ------------------ '72 monte w SBC 'nuff said.

Quote: <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by wallaby: Agreed. There was a period when specs called for gaps as large as .060 with HEI systems, but it was found that the increased amperage required to fire the plug was destroying the cap, rotor, and wires. </font> hehe, my '94 oldsmobile runs .090 gaps. (DIS Tho)