kc8oye

my monte tank is only 16 gallon.

i put a drain plug in my stamped pan.. it was well worth the effort I just want no leaks!!!! I'm tired of leaks!! My monte Leaks EVERYTHING!!! TRans fluid, engine oil, brake fluid (I think I stopped this one) it used to leak coolant till I replaced the heater core.. I think the diff fluid doesn't leak.. it never seems to be low when I check it. oh yeah.. it leaks gas too.

What's wrong with a little rain? You get the car wet to wash it don't you?

that's what I wanna hear

anyone use a cast-aluminum pan on a TH350? I have a TH-350*C* (lockup converter) and I've done everything I can short of using a whole tube of RTV to make the pan seal against the case, (teh pan was badly warped when I got the trans and rebuilt it) so I'm thinkin about going to a cast aluminum pan to help with the leaking, also gain some fluid capacity, and extra cooling (deeper pan also gives me room to add a trans temp sensor)

a larger one might respond better to an engine with low vaccum (big cam) from the larger diaphragm area. generally speaking tho, there is only one adjustable type that I know of, mine does not have stripes. best thing to do, is just jump in with the new modulator and see how it shifts, if you don't like it, change it. there's room enough to get to it with it installedd when I installed mine, I turned the screw all the way in, and back out two full turns... it shifts like a MUTHA! it will burn the tires going into 2nd @ full throttle if I manually shift. and gives me a very satisfying bark most other times at full pedal ..and extremely firm shifts at part throttle. the only mods to my trans are .. well you can't know about them. suffice to say, the only thing that would matter in this discussion is very slightly higher line pressure

i agree.. th350's are tough monsters.. usually what breaks the 2nd gear sprag is nuetral slams or reverse-hole-shots :> the TH350 in my monte .. when I got it "ran" i use quotes.. cuz when I got it open.. the clutches were GONE.. it was just steel-on-steel.. but according to the guy I got it from.. it drove ok "it just slips a little bit" heh..

do you have the right intake gaskets? as I understand it.. vortec heads/intakes are different.. also.. did you put a small smear of RTV around all the water ports before you put the gaskets in?

ooooooh ok in that case.. I suggest you call Leo Koniks Klassiks - 810-329-6868

Bussman makes one... check with your local auto parts store. Advance Auto carries smaller ones, but the packaging lists up to 30A models... but they can't order any of them (I want one too.. for my electric fan) this link is the catalog.. it's about 5.26mb so it could be a while if you aren't on broadband! http://www.bussmann.com/shared/library/catalogs/Buss_Auto-Fuse_Cat.pdf scroll down to Page #11 in the PDF (it's #8 in the cat you want the CBc-C type ... here's a link to a CBB type which is a replacement for ATO (blade) type fuses http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetai...tegoryCode=3061 you can also try LittelFuse (http://www.littelfuse.com)

I put a home made shift kit in mine ... a couple of tweaked springs while it was being assembled... a piece of broom handle in place of a spring...adjustable modulator.. and I can SPIN the rear tires going into 2nd @ 60 mph. (2.73's)

I stumbled across this article... kind of interesting reading.. http://www.2quicknovas.com/vortecheads.html

Techniclly.. there are 4 4x4, short, medium and long. 4x4 is basicly just a plate bolted to the back of the trans as the speedo unit is in the transfer case.

woo hoo.. bought an edlebrock performer rpm (not airgap) off ebay today.. $106 including shiping.. theyre $142 at the local parts store.. and $135 from summit racing.. so I guess i did ok.. only problem is it's a square bore type.. .guess I'll ahve to get me a qjet-squarebore adpater

according to my rebuilding SBC's book, yes, the increase in rocker arm ratio effectively increases duration by a small ammount.. can't remember what off hand.

I'm actully kinda shocked at how cheap forged bottom end stuff actully is... I figured I'd be spending $1000 for a crank, and $700 for rods.. etc What do you guys think of the Scat chevy 4340 Forged crank? it's $550 from northern autoparts.. http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=16495 $170 for forged rods.. http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=3023 $235 for forged flat top pistons I think I've got a good recipie here for a very solid bottom end (one that I can throw some nitrous at if I want to)

I used a crossmember from an Impala.. can't remember which year.. bolted in just the same.. only problem I ran into was that the exhaust 'humps' are in the wrong place and required a little extra pipe bending to make everything fit ..

Thanks for the info Don.. . I think this weekend I'm gonna investigate some local machine shops.. maybe get the crank in to get it posilished and or turned as the case may be.. make sure it is straight yadda yadda... I heard on one of the car shows over the weekend that laying a cast crank on it's side can make it sag from its own weight.. is this true? or is this somthing that would take _YEARS_ to happen? cuz both my spare cranks have been laying on their side for at least a year now..

I was planning on taking it up to 6k don.. is that maybe pushing it too hard on a stock bottom-end? or am I just being over-hopeful on how far out I'm gonna be making usable power?

cuz an all-forged bottom end is way beyond my budget right now.. and I need a new engine _now_ ..

Thanks for the info Don... what about the bttom end tho? all o.e-spec cast components ok? my main question is pistons... will hyper's survive some nitrous? also... one of the guys on here.. is running the XE272 cam... do you think this cam would still make for a good street-driver cam with the vortec's? and maybe make a lil' more power? one last note.. on teh intake.. I specified NON-airgap because I've been warned by a few people that the air-gap manifolds don't work well in cold air.

oops.. my bad.

one other thing to keep in mind.. *IF* you have a Qjet... while the choke is on.. the QJET should keep the secondaries LOCKED out.. so they can't function... if that lock isn't working.. it will very definatly bog and stumble when it's cold. it will also be a slug from not having the benfits of the secondaries working... I'm also inclined to believe you have choke problems.. becuase my qjet even with my sickly engine.. and my TH350.. I can start the car with one pump on the pedal and turn the key.. and give it just a minute or so.. then drive away, and it drives JUST fine.. no bogs.. tho if I drive away right away, it will stumble just a bit on the 1-2 shift cuz my trans shifts HARD and fast. cuz my carb is so lean right now.. it actlly drives far better on the choke

flush some electrical contact cleaner through the switch... or even some light lubricant oil. I did this at Leo's shop to get a Th400 kickdown switch working again.. it was sticky... dont' use brake cleaner tho cuz it'll damage the electrical parts.

Yep.. the Kickdown cable on a TH350 does _NOT_ control 'line pressure' in ANYWAY whatso ever. the kick down cable controls 'kickdown pressure' to the modulator valve circuit, which also uses pressure from the modulator and govener, to allow the downshift valves to move, or stay put. you will find veyr early upshifts w/o the kickdown cable tho.. part of what it does, is hold the trans in the lower gear until late as possible when you have foot burried in it