kc8oye

it's the end. That's EXACTLY what mine did when the front pump failed. It's going to get worse, and eventually it just won't go at all. my front pump failed, and I had no choice but it drive it home... burned out 3rd gear... then 2nd.. then 1st on the way home till finally there was noothing.. not even reverse.

well.. let me rephase.. I am considering two options.. 1) using the whole housing as-is.. relocating any mounts as needed... 2) taking the posi unit out and putting it in my housing. as for option 2... how is it going to work if I change the whole diff as one unit, setting lash and what not as required... OR... using just the posi 'center section' and possibly finding a new carrier? or am I thinking of one piece as two? it's hard to do this w/o the axle infront of me.. can't wait to have i-net at home again

it's a 70-72 monte.

sweet.. that's what I wanted to hear :0 thanks guys

I scored a posi unit for my monte.. I think.. came out of an '85 buick LeSabre.. it's definately posi (even has the warning tag about using LSD fluid) both tires turn in the same direction and it's a !@#$ to try and turn it around on the ground it's definately a-body-style 4-link, (even tho the lesabre is a T-body (b-body maybe?)) I have two problems tho a) it's a 5x5.00" pitch circle (monte is 5x4.75") the shock mounts are in the wrong place, (they're on the front for the buick, back for the monte) now.. the housing itself appears to be identical to my 10-bolt housing... what are the chances of me taking the posi guts out of the buick and putting them in my housing with my axles? I'd like to totally rebuild the axle anyway, new seals, bearing inserts.. etc etc. I'm TOLD the buick has 3.73's and I definatley don't want those w/o an o.d trans. If I have to buy new 2.73's to fit the buick's carrier that's fine. and my last Q.. anyone interested in helping me tear both axle housings down and rebuild the monte's?

From what I understand.. only '72's have that vent tower behind the rear seat. I took one out my '72 body I scrapped.. and there was no where to put it on the '70 body shell I bought from leo.

kickdown is controlled soley by the cable. Check that cable.. make sure it IS adjusted right. Mine wouldn't kick down at all either.. turns out the 'correct' way to do it.. wasn't really right for me for some reason. (wrong cable or somthing *shrug*) I moved the throttle return springs to hold the throttle wide open and manually pulled the kick down cable out as far as it would go with vicegrips... and then adjusted the cable clamp.. and then from there fine tuned it by trial and error.

Fast hard shifts are better for the trans in the long run. Soft shifts means slipping clutches which is bad. . but yeah. hard shifts are hard on the rest of the drivetrain, I say .. GO FOR IT!! Barkign tires are always cool.

don't bother with an add-on o.d unit.. they're sooo expensive, you can buy two professionaly built 700r4's for that kinda cash. you can rebuild a th350 yourself easy enough.

ya know.. I've never been inside a 200-4r.. not really sure. what's wrong with the TH350's shifting? too early? too late? not at all? lemme know.. might be simple to fix. I run a TH350c in the monte, and it does well. i avoid the freeways tho.. 2800 rpm with glasspacks gets old fast.. lol

Big J: thanks for the info.. I'm problaby going to stay with the hurst right now. if I go back to buckets and console, I'm gonna use a 3rd gen firebird console I think. i really liked it when I had it before.. that's my old monte. my new one is a plain bench (for now) i believe I can tuck the pro-matic II underneath a stock f-body console heheh... and i can get it from the parts store I prefer to take all my business to

Whining from an automatic is usually from the front pump cavitating, or a gear set wearing out badly. i'd bet you have a clogged filter or a front pump going bad. (using L3 or D instead of "(D)" increases line pressure substantialy) 700's use a vane type pump.. hrrm.

it sounds like your torque converter has let go. i would drop your trans. pan and check for chunks. if you find chunks, new torque converter, and I would highly recomend a rebuild becuase the junk coming outta the converter may well have damaged important stuff. if you don't find chunks, I'm not too sure. I'm not REAL familiar with 200's, but I don't believe the band does anything in 1st gear. my next question is.. I don't believe a 200-4r's band is adjustable ( I could be wrong) I know the TH200/Th250 (not the 200-4r tho) is externally adjustable this also sounds remarkably like when my Th350 went out. my front pump went bad.. on the way home I lost 3rd gear (burned it out from low fluid pressure as I found out later) so I kept on going home in 2nd. eventually I lost 2nd. and was down 1st gear with the car doing this *rev*-*JERK* *rev*-*JERK* the last mile or so to the house.. the next morning, I backed it out of the driveway, and that's where it died completely.. in the middle of the road. dont' mean to ruin your day.. but typically when an automatic looses drive, it's bad, and it's not cheap.

ok, I can approach this from two angles. 1) it shouln't use 3rd at all when it's floored, that's what the kick-down cable is all about. (at least not until you are doing 90-100 or so) 2) if you mean it won't kick down into 2nd when you floor it that could be a mis-adjusted kickdown cable (I went around in a circles a few times with this on my own th350) what RPM are you doing at say, 45mph? w/o a kick down cable working, you may well be shifting into 2nd at about 10 mph or so, and not feeling it (mine was like this) and obviously, it won't kick down. if you don't have a tach, you can get a cheap one for $10-$20 and they only require 3 wires to hook up (4 if you want it to light up)

a 9 second GN would blow a stock 200 r4 apart on the 1st launch.. 200's are VERY weak transmissions.. and require a huge outlay of cash to make 'bullet proof' 700r4's aren't terribly strong either, but were designed to live behind a high torque smallblock pulling a trailer (hence the really low 1st gear and slightly higher o.d ratios) but I agree with MJS.. no magic to the TV cable 700r4's use, and no, as long as it IS hooked up, and not WAAAAAAAY out of adjustment, teh worst that will happen is it will shift oddly. 700's aren't a difficult swap either. they bolt right up to a small (or big block) use the stock crossmember (it must be moved back, and new holes in the frame drilled) and your driveshaft must be shortened, that's really all there is too it. wiring up the lock up torque converter is optional but highly recomended to avoid unnecessary heat build up. Generally speaking, the electric o.d unit is pretty live-with-able.. my pal's 84 volvo has a 4 spd manual with an electric over drive.. you row 1-2-3-4 and then hit a button on the shifter knob for 5th. just my .02 and for the record, I think GV's are way over priced.. cheaper to get a 'built' 700r4

I'm still exploring all my transmission options.. has anyone here used a Hurst ProMatic-II ? the local parts store has one.. it seemed to be real nice on the counter heheh. I specificly want a shifter that ratchets in both directions (up and down) since I want to auto-x / club race with it. (assuming I stay with an auto) but one thing that was difficult to tell.. is how well it ratchets in both directions.. I.e can I ratchet 1-2 then 2-1 thne 1-2 then 2-3 then 3-2 again or any combination there of? or does it ratchet only one way to either end? also.. does anyone know if there's a similar model that can do 3 or 4 speed trans? (in case I go with a 700r4)

well, I planned on gearing it for about 1700 - 2000 rpm @ 70 in top gear... since that's about where just about every gm product runs (most cars anyway)

I mentioned the Tremec 5spd andreas... that's the T5 unless I'm mistaken.. my biggest thing is the t56 has a .5:1 6th gear, I don't beleive the 5spds go that low... that, and just having 6 gears to row thru.. wow.. $3,000 for a 5spd.. to me.. THATS NUTS i can get a brand new T56 thru GM SPO for that. I'm not sure what I'm gonna do.. maybe i'll just do the 700r4 for now... and work on the stick swap some time in the future... 700 is bolt in swap.. just move the cross member back, re-drill the frame, and get the driveshaft shortened...

can someone describe some of the major physical differences between an M21, M22, T5 and T56 trans? I relize that the t56 requires a hydrualic thow out doohickey.. and to me, that seems easier then trying to run clutch linkgages around headers. But seeing as my car is still an automatic, I was contemplating an 'as-would-be-stock' swap to a 4spd... get everything working, then look into what would be required to make a T56 *drool* fit... *drool* 6spd manual.. mppph!

I just want to add a response to this before I send it to the archives Purple wire is the wire coming from the ignition switch, which goes to the 'S' post, the 'M' post goes up to the ballast resistor. 'S' is the nearest to the block. The 'M' post bypasses the ballast reisistor to provide full 12v to the points system while cranking.

leo has got a point there. when I took my bolts out, they turned IN easier and I took them out thru the back.. also the threads on the 'inside' are often clener and easier to turn

i would reccomend having your old trans rebuilt.. unless you grenaded it ~ otherwise, find a direct swap.. it's the least headaches.. and these guys are right.. the chevy and BOP bellhousings are diff.. there are universal pattern cases, IIRc those came around late into the TH350's run.. Gm trying to reduce costs by only manufacturing one case. if you have a TH350 don't scrap it.. they're becoming rare thanks to trans. shops buyign them up and recycling them for scrap metal.

I could swear I used 3/8" brake line for mine.

I did like rob said. removed the unit from the bumper, drilled the screw heads off, removed the lens, removed the screws with vice-grips, then replaced the scrws with stainless screws to avoid this problem in the future.

Chevy hi performance IT hink it was has an article on a company that sells modified Viper T56's for use in 'standard' sbc applications... I'm interested in doing the same, but I must have an O.D since I expect to use my monte as my only form of transport very soon.