B-Man Posted January 30 Posted January 30 The new headlight switch came in from OPGI https://www.opgi.com/interior-accessories/dash-accessories/1964-77-headlight-switch/switch-headlight-1961-74-reproduction-8-pin-KR20063.html I only had a few minutes last night, but I was able to access the switch without dropping the dash by removing the dash pad (already off) and removing the left dash speaker and bracket. Interestingly, I was able to get to the spring loaded button, pressed it in, and was unable to pull the knob / shaft out. I ended up pressing the spring loaded button and putting a pair of pliers on the shaft, but no dice. I will get back at it tonight with some photos of the (likely) OEM switch and the OPGI switch comparison. Quote
Scott S. Posted January 30 Posted January 30 Try rotating the knob while pulling it..... There's a bit of a "keyway" it needs to go through. Quote
B-Man Posted January 30 Posted January 30 2 minutes ago, Scott S. said: Try rotating the knob while pulling it..... There's a bit of a "keyway" it needs to go through. Good to know. I'm very prone to going 'caveman' on stuff like that! 1 Quote
Scott S. Posted January 30 Posted January 30 Just now, B-Man said: Good to know. I'm very prone to going 'caveman' on stuff like that! DIITO !!! lol 1 Quote
Scott S. Posted January 30 Posted January 30 Also, you have to pust that button in as far as possible. If you don't get a good angle on it, it's hard to get it in all the way. 1 Quote
Leghome Posted January 30 Posted January 30 also the knob has to be pulled all of the way out/headlights on before pushing the button 5 Quote
B-Man Posted January 31 Posted January 31 Ok, first place goes to @Leghome!! Once I pulled the shaft out (headlights on) and pressed the button it slid right out. This is sounding very 'porny' again, I know Here are some pics of the old (OEM?) switch and the new one. Looks like I had a 7-terminal connector and now have an 8. Drats! Looks like I've got some research to do. Other than the connector, everything else looks the same or comparable, and of course better. I'm noting that the large, black-wired grounding disc could easily be missed if you're not paying attention pulling the switch out. I'm going to clean it up to make sure it gets a good ground on reinstall. That weird flat head screw thing that the shaft goes through sandwiches the grounding disc to the switch when tightened. I wonder if that was just loose on my dash, causing the initial issue. Hmmm Quote
B-Man Posted January 31 Posted January 31 And a few minutes later, the new switch is installed. No dice (sigh). The dash lights still don't come on (bigger sigh). So, sort of a waste of time and dollars but it was a good opportunity to replace the switch since I have the dash pad off. Oh well. I think I'm going to go ahead and install a relay to get power over to that fuse when the key is on. Or just run a jumper from anything on the right side of the fuse panel (easier). I think I'm just battling with too many PO hacks to get this figured out in a timely manner. Fun fun! @Tonka Man, sorry about completely hijacking your thread. But my content is very relevant! Quote
B-Man Posted January 31 Posted January 31 Ok, I'm not proud of this at all. But it works. It does kill the 'dimmability' of the dash lights via the (new) headlight switch. But the lights are pretty dim anyway so not a bid deal at the moment The fuel gauge bulb doesn't seem to work at all. Speedo and tach are dim. The temp and oil lights don't work either And ... I just pulled the temp bulb / socket out and there are no wires to it. OH MY GOD!!??!!!!??? Are all of the dash lights powered by this crappy plastic white sheet with the hint of electrical traces on it???!!! Holy hell. I'm quitting for the night. This sucks Quote
Scott S. Posted January 31 Posted January 31 Yup.... That sheet is the bane of many wiring issues. It's hard to tell if there are cracks in the circuits, and being 50+ years old, it probably likely. As for the number of contacts on the switch, I reread the posts.... Not sure why I thought there were only 6, but I believe the extra one was added for another circuit for later models. They used the same switch until the '80's, and probably thought it was cost effective not to make two versions. As for the intensity of the lights, I switched to LED bulbs in the dash. Made a difference. Best of luck with that. Quote
72 Monte Carlo Posted January 31 Posted January 31 When I pulled my dash out to install a brand-new heater core and clean the HVAC box, I redid my instrument cluster by adding a Tach, new circuit board, LED bulbs, new headlight switch, etc. If all the lights are dimmer than normal or won't brighten up with the new headlight switch, dim lights are indicative of a bad ground. 1 Quote
B-Man Posted February 1 Posted February 1 17 hours ago, 72 Monte Carlo said: When I pulled my dash out to install a brand-new heater core and clean the HVAC box, I redid my instrument cluster by adding a Tach, new circuit board, LED bulbs, new headlight switch, etc. If all the lights are dimmer than normal or won't brighten up with the new headlight switch, dim lights are indicative of a bad ground. This all seems like a giant can of worms! I'm trying to get projects wrapped up for the summer. But man, sounds like I'm going in. I will report back. But yeah, checking grounds will be the first stop. There is a good photo in this thread showing the ground near / under the headlight switch. Quote
70SS396 Posted February 15 Posted February 15 On 11/9/2024 at 6:18 PM, Tonka Man said: One of my rescue cars has an issue with the dash lights. I checked the little 4A fuse and it is good. Even checked the continuity of the fuse because it is so tiny. Any ideas of why my dash lights do not work? Something else I can check? There are several ground connections for the dash lights. Stangeba has excellent pictures below. Note the back of the cluster can on the lower right showing the black ground wire. The other end not seen connects to the chassis . There are also several hex head screws that ground the printed circuit to the can. If the black lead is disconnected or broken your dash lights won't work properly. A good test is to take a jumper wire from a solid connection on the dash framework or emergency brake assembly to the metal cluster can . Quote
B-Man Posted February 15 Posted February 15 @70SS396, thanks. Yeah, I'm still working up to pulling the steering column down and lowering the dash for access. But you're exactly right - seems like a common ground issue Quote
stangeba Posted February 15 Posted February 15 Remember to unhook the shift indicator wire from the column before you lower it or it WILL BREAK!!! Quote
70SS396 Posted February 15 Posted February 15 5 minutes ago, B-Man said: @70SS396, thanks. Yeah, I'm still working up to pulling the steering column down and lowering the dash for access. But you're exactly right - seems like a common ground issue You can do a test by removing the dash pad or access the cluster can from below. Connect a jumper to the emergency brake assembly on one end and touch the can on the other end. Of course turn the lights swith on . Quote
B-Man Posted February 16 Posted February 16 @stangeba, shift indicator cable ... noted, and THANK YOU! Yeah, I had no idea. You've probably saved me a lot of hassle @70SS396, when you refer to the "can", what exactly are you referring to? While I'm very capable, I'm still learning the MC terminology. I will definitely take this advice and check grounds. Has to be a major part of the problem I'm sure. Quote
70SS396 Posted February 16 Posted February 16 4 hours ago, B-Man said: @stangeba, shift indicator cable ... noted, and THANK YOU! Yeah, I had no idea. You've probably saved me a lot of hassle @70SS396, when you refer to the "can", what exactly are you referring to? While I'm very capable, I'm still learning the MC terminology. I will definitely take this advice and check grounds. Has to be a major part of the problem I'm sure. The metal housing that the guages are in. There are several hex screws that make the ground connection to the printed circuit for the dash lights. The housing (can) must be grounded for the dash lights to work. Quote
Paul Bell Posted February 25 Posted February 25 Hello folks, sorry I've been absent, I had a very bad falling accident and really screwed up my elbow requiring surgery. I don't know if everybody's lighting issues have been cured but: I finally got around to opening up a dash harness I have. This verified drawing is the result, I hope it helps somebody: 6 Quote
cny first gen 71 Posted February 25 Posted February 25 Sorry to hear Paul hope your healing well. 2 Quote
Rob Peters Posted February 25 Posted February 25 Paul so sorry to hear about your fall and surgery. Glad to hear you are recovering and able to get some Monte time in. rob Quote
70SS396 Posted February 26 Posted February 26 23 hours ago, Rob Peters said: Paul so sorry to hear about your fall and surgery. Glad to hear you are recovering and able to get some Monte time in. rob Thanks for your concern Rob but I didn't fall. Hope I don't anytime soon. Best, Paul valle/ 70SS396 Quote
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