[A/C R134a Conversion - Problems]

Excellent - thank you - I will try this - I did pull a good vaccum and did replace the drier - but will do so again as directed. Give me a week or so to follow up - Fall baseball isstarting and work - you know the drill....

 

Anyway - thanks - I will let you know

 

BTW - I think also that the shop is not aware of how well the 134a conversion works.

[A/C R134a Conversion - Problems]

The A-6's were pretty tough weren't they?

[A/C R134a Conversion - Problems]

The discussion is interesting on alternative freons and additives, but its not the topic - can anyone advise on issues I might be experiencing to resolve my problem? I appreciate the FGMC team advice.

 

I will verify the heaterhose and any valves are in working order.

 

MJS - I read some of your other posts and see your expertise. I do not think I replaced (or have) an orifice tube. Isn't that on newer model condensors that have a different style tube arrangement - and ultimately coordinate with an accumulator? I may have this info all backasswards.....thanks

 

And on the Old Products POA - they were very helpful - I called them yesterday as recommended in one of your previous posts. If I have to remove the POA to adjust the screw (?) then I figure I should do the new POA and dryer.

[A/C R134a Conversion - Problems]

I updated my 72 MC from R12 to R134a. It blows hot - can't figure out why. It may be the flush liquid or a POA?? I put in new Seals, Compressor, Dryer and Exp valve. It does not blow cold - maybe low 70's. If memory serves me, my pressure at 1500rpm is 225/35. At idle it might be 250/50?

 

I meticulously flushed the system using Intertrans? flush. It looked like chicken broth with milk mixed in. Very Oily - I thought how could this work - but used it anyway. I dumped 1.5 Quarts in only to purge 25% of it. I understand the evaporator has many 'pathways' out - so no matter how much air pressure I blew in - not much came out. I then had a buddy purge it with R22. Again - another recharge. Still no cooler. BTW - I used a new oil too - It had a red label??? Foget the name - Pag?

 

I have read some of the articles to resolve this issue, but need more input. My buddy has a 72 Cutlasss - his works great. I understand it might have a5 degree higher temp - but that is fine.

 

The sight glass is foamy - but I heard you never get it clear with R134a. There are no leaks and the hoses appear so soaked with R12/Oils that they seal well.

 

Now I don't know how a POA works - but could it be bad? Do my pressures indicate a blockage? Most importantly - is that flush kit I used screwing things up - I assume the flush has mixed well with the freon - but I can't seem to purge it.

 

I am open to do whatever necessary - just don't want to pull and clean the evaporator or replace it or the condensor unless i have to.

 

One last thing - out of frustration, I took it to a local shop to have them check it out. Just diagnoze so I could preferably fix. They were kinda irritated but checked it anyway and said that no matter what I did - it would never cool. They said the evaporator was too small as well as the condesnor. The evaporator may indeed be too small, but the condensor is huge!.

 

I read some archive articles and am now aware of the POA tube in Fort Worth - this will be done - can you guys help me out? Thanks - I think it might be the flush kit or POA.

[Where is the High Speed Blower Fuse -?]

Thanks - I am replacing the 30 amp fuse now !

 

Thanks again

[Where is the High Speed Blower Fuse -?]

I can't remember where the high speed blower fuse is ! Can one of you guys help me?

 

Thanks

 

 

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[Rolling Wheel Wells]

Bob - what backspacing are you running?

 

I am using vette wheels - I guess they are 4" BS - but I will have to check. will advise..

 

Also - I checked the body for squareness - the right side has 2" and the left has 1.5". This is only off 1/4". This dimension is from tire side wall to outer edge of wheel well trim.

[Rolling Wheel Wells]

It took me a while - but it finally sunk in - cute !

 

Anyway - when you rolled - did it chip the paint?

[Rolling Wheel Wells]

I recently upgraded to 8" 245/60/15. They look really close to the wheel well if the rear body squats down hard. Any thoughts on rolling the wheel wells? What about gringing the metal rather than bending - as I do not want the paint to chip and ultimately rust.

 

 

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[This message has been edited by kaiserbud (edited 09-19-2002).]