Cam57
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Posts posted by Cam57
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I decided to go with the forged aluminum pistons. They are the Icon +5cc flat top. Sticking with the cast steel crank.
The difference in cost for the forged pistons was only about $80.
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That makes sense. It must have had a nylon faced timing gear. The one that was on it now is steel, so it must have been replaced at some point.
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We are disassembling the engine and when we pulled the oil pan off, we found a bunch of small pieces of white plastic in the pan. There was a bunch of these pieces sucked up into the oil pick-up screen. Has anyone seen this kind of thing before and know what these pieces of plastic are from?
Thanks, Craig
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Thanks. I appreciate all the opinions and info.
I was concerned that the compression ratio was too high. The AFR Eliminator heads come in 65cc or 75cc chambers. If I go with the 75cc chamber and keep the rest the same, the CR will be about 9.6. Would that be more in-line with my planned use of the car?
Also, any preference between the Lunati or Howards cams?
With under 450 HP and low RPM engine and if I lower the compression ratio, I am thinking the SCAT cast crank and hyper aluminum pistons should be ok. Most "experts" say they are ok up to about 600 HP. A forged set will run me about $600 to $700 more. The KB pistons are what come with the SCAT rotating assembly. I would prefer the Mahle. But, I don't think SCAT would put them in their assemblies if they were no good.
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A little more info.
This car has AC and automatic trans.
I will be replacing the TH350 with a 2004R.
Also thinking of replacing the 2.73 ratio standard (non-posi) differential with 3.31 with posi.
Thanks again.
Craig
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Here is the build that my son and I plan to do for our 383 stroker project.
This car will be used for street only. Pump gas. Smooth idle and good street manners.
Block - Stock 71 350 decked to 9.015 and bored to 4.03.
Crankshaft - SCAT Series 9000 Cast Steet internally balanced.
Rods - SCAT 6-inch forged 4340 Steel I-beam.
Pistons - Kieth Black flat top +7cc hypereutectic aluminum.
Rod Bolts - ARP 3.8 cap screw
Rings - Plasmamoly 1/6, 1/6, 3/16.
Intake Manifold - Edelbrock dual plane Performer Air Gap.
Heads - Air Flow Research 180cc intake runner Eliminator with 65cc chamber.
CAM - Lunati Voodoo Hydraulic Roller 270/278 advertised, 219/227 @ 0.05 with 0.515 intake lift & -.53 exhaust lift at 112 lobe separation angle, or
Howards hydraulic roller 266/270 advertised, 213/217 @ 0.05 with 0.485 intake lift & 0.495 exhasut lift at 112 lobe separation angle.
Lifters - Hydraulic roller - Lunati or Howards to match cam.
Rockers - Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnum, 1.6 ratio intake and 1.5 ratio exhasut. The 1.6 ratio rockers should add about 32 to 34 thousands to the intake lift. The AFR heads have great exhaust flow, so don't think I need any more lift there.
Headers - Hedman 1 5/8 inch.
Carburetor - Either will have the stock Q-jet rebuilt and modified for more flow or will get Holly 750 or equivalent.
With this build I should have about 10.7:1 compression ratio.
I am thinking this build will give me about 420+ max HP at 5500 to 5800 rpm and about 450+ max torque at 4000 or less rpm.
I also think (hope) this will be a relatively smooth running, dependable, long lasting engine that will run on pump gas (91 octane).
This is my first engine build. I'd love to hear what you more experienced guys (or gals - are there any gals out there?) think. Especially which cam to use.
Thanks.
Craig
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I extended it out to 1/2 ton. I could have gone one more to 1/4 ton but I wasn't sure if the motor and tranny together would exceed 500lbs.
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Pulled the old engine out last Saturday.
As you can see, I could have used a hoist with a longer reach.
I will post my build for a 383 stroker in a few days and we'll see what you all think.
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Thanks for all the replys and tips. I am thinking I will swap tranny for 4 spd OD. I won't ask if I should go with 700 or 200, I'll just read the threads.
I don't have a tranny jack, so I guess I will pull both together. With the radiator out, there is plenty of room!
I don't have a spare spline, so, good tip to drain it first.
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I am pulling the original 350 engine this weekend for a complete rebuild and 383 stroker conversion. Is it easier to remove the engine and TH350 auto tranny together or separately?
Thanks, Craig
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Removed driver's side door to replace hinges. Bushings completely shot on upper and lower. Will install the new hinges and door this week. Spent most of the day at son's water polo tournament.
Check out the bushing on the hinge detent
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Maybe you guys can tell me what I am doing wrong trying to post images to the message.
Craig
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Pulled gas tank to replace hoses and sending unit. Build sheet was on top of tank but almost totally disentegrated. Tried to piece it together but it fell apart in my hands. Found an orange plastic cap inise the tank. It is about 2-inches dia. Have no idea how or why it is in there. I think the fuel gauge float was getting stuck on it. The fuel gauge stopped at 1/4 tank.
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Thanks Sam. My plan for this summer is to make it a 383 stroker. Primarily street car. Would be happy with about 400hp. Was more curious about the 2 or 4 bolt than anything else. I will find out soon enough.
Craig
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Did a compression test on the old original 350 today. Surprisingly pretty good results. All cylinders at 150 to 160, excepth #3 at 130 and #5 at 170.
Question: Can you tell if the block is a 4-bolt or 2-bolt main by the casting number (3970010)?
What did you do to your Monte Carlo today?
in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum
Posted
Finally finished assembling the engine yesterday (383 Stroker). Ready to take her to Joe Sherman Racing next week for dyno tune and break-in.
Been a slow project since I have included my son in every step. Between school and sports, he is a busy guy. Can't wait to hear her take her first breath.
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