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John Burns

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Posts posted by John Burns

  1. I have looked at both the Be Cool and Summit Radiators. I plugged in my 72 Monte 402 CI to get applications/specs. Looking at the ones supposedly for my Monte, they have 1 1/12" & 1 3/4" dia. outlet openings depending on the model of radiator looked at.

    Now it has me wondering why the 2 different sizes. Do you have A/C in yours? Might make a difference but nothing I saw while looking suggested either or.

    The upper inlet is 1 1/2" dia. and would expect the lower outlet to be equal with that. But without knowing the theory behind those inlet/outlet diameters, I cant be certain. I believe the thermostat housing is 1 1/2" dia. And my water pump inlet is 1 3/4" dia.

    Had you checked to see if you can get a factory fit 1 3/4" dia. outlet and 1 3/4" inlet lower radiator hose for your application assuming your water pump inlet dia. is the same? I actually bought my upper radiator hose from a guy on eBAY who makes/forms them. I am sure he could make you one if all else fails. I believe his eBAY handle was pacecarjeff as I remember.

     

    Here is a pic of the one I bought and installed. Both upper/lower openings are 1 1/2" dia. I was able to purchase the lower hose from a local auto parts but couldn't find the correct upper.

     

    getthumb-2.jpg

     

    Doug

     

    Thanks Doug- I sent a message to pacecarjeff!

     

    (Love this site! Two possible solutions for a crazy problem!)

  2. I was able to slip the 1 1/2" hose over the 1 3/4 outlet, but I know that will break much sooner than later. Unless I can find the right hose, I will get another hose with a 1 3/4 end and splice it with my existing hose. A short piece of steel 1 1/2 tubing at the splice is my plan- I'll hide the extra hose clamps under the plastic anti-collapse sleeve.

  3. Hi all-

     

    I just purchased one of those stock-looking aluminum Be Cool radiators and the lower outlet is 1 3/4". Does anyone know if this is the standard outlet size for a "factory" big block radiator? The hose I have on the car is 1 1/2". I made it fit, but it is too stretched for my comfort. Will a hose specifically for a big block fit the 1 3/4" outlet?

     

    Thanks!

  4. ...cracked the 11s!!! yay

     

    Ran 11.9 at 114. Density Altitude: 1386 feet

     

    Not sure how that happened as the tires I ran are 2 inches taller than the ones from a couple weeks ago. That, coupled with the drag-unfriendly 3.31 gear and 2200 converter somehow didn't phase that 502.

     

    Nice! I disagree though that the 3.31 and 2200 converter are drag-unfriendly! Big blocks make gobs of torque low in the rpms- more converter and gear throws it away. My 454 w/3.31 / 2400 converter / 275/60-15 MT DRs has nipped the 11's with a 1.69 60'. That 502 was moving upstairs with that 114! Play around with your launch and get that short time down and you'll see a .7. What is the whole combination?

  5. who says you can't teach a old dog new tricks, why can't they just sell them for what they really are confused

     

    Completely agree. It is ridiculous. Maybe they are stuck between the continued damage to their reputation and just coming clean and admitting they are wrong. I bet a lawyer said "if you change the description, you'll open yourself up to lawsuits".

     

    I spent a lot of money on that first carb and then a lot of time trying to understand why my car wouldn't run with it... I've stuck with Holley, but this still leaves a bad taste. The Holley trailer tech guys cringe when you bring it up to them- which I have done on more that one occasion.

  6. a holley based 950 actually flows less than a 850, that monster needs a minimum of a true 1000 cfm or more, that why you are picking up when you take off your air filter, a 950 flows 830 if my memory serves me, you can't go by the advertised CFM,

    Sam, a little clarification on the Holley "950": you are correct that the 80496 (950 4150 HP) is really an 830 cfm carb. It has a 1.375 venturi and a 1.75 throttle blade.

     

    Holley also has the 80805 (950 Ultra HP) which is a completely different animal than the 4150 HP and does actually flow 950 cfm. It has a 1.59 venturi and a 1.75 throttle blade (even the info on the Holley site is friggen confusing). It is the "true 950 cfm" according to Holley. Funny how they don't say it is in reference to their own non-950 950!

     

    I have one of each... the Ultra is on my 540 and is awesome. The 4150 was bought about 10 years ago- slowed down the 540, and has been sitting in a box ever since. I recently found out it is supposed to be an excellent carb for 454s. I am going to try it eventually in my Monte.

  7. If you go electric, you might want to consider this Aeromotive Stealth Fuel system:

     

    http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/new-products/18302-70-72-chevelle-and-70-monte-carlo/

     

    Says it is good to 1000hp for a NA carb engine. Not cheap and definitely unconventional. It uses an in-tank pump with high pressure and a regulator that reduces the pressure down at the carb. The high pressure and return line keeps the heat-gremlins away and you don't need to run huge lines (-8AN). I have this on my 10-second Camaro and I love it.

  8. If that was my ride, I would go with a 3:31 gear- but changing gears in a 12 bolt is not easy at all. Even if you have all of the specialty tools, getting them "right" is not a straightforward thing. I'd find a mechanic you trust that has done it a few hundred times.

     

    Quieting the exhaust is easy and relatively cheap, but the absolute first thing I would do is get rid of the manual valve body. (I've never understood a manual vb- it isn't "reverse" is it? Why shift if you don't have to? You can always shift an automatic if you really want to.)

     

    Do those things and then see how if the converter is too annoying. B&M's 2400 is inexpensive and they work very well.

  9. Dang... these 950HPs have huge jets out of the box:

     

    Primary Jet Size: 92

    Primary Power Valve: 4.5

     

    Secondary Jet Size: 92

    Secondary Power Valve: 4.5

     

    As much fuel here as most of the biggest dominators. Crazy

  10. Scott- I think you are talking about a thread I started. The pressure regulator is a cheap, quick way to reduce the twitchy feeling. It does make a nice difference.

     

    That said, really the best thing to do is to get it aligned with as much caster as possible. You want to find someone that knows what they are doing, not a "toe and go" shop!

     

    Here is the kit- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRG-899001/

    It is really easy to install.

  11. It looks like this thread is officially hijacked.

     

    Hijacked in the best way! I too have always just dialed a carb in by feel and the rare trip to the track. Are these wideband O2 sensors worth the effort & cost? Is there a sensor set up that anyone would recommend?

  12.  

    you made a great choice...the Ultra's have already gained a good rep for being pretty spot on right out of the box...just get to the track and play with the jetting a bit.... you should be good to go.... cool

     

    Can I send the car to you to dial it in at the track for me? smile I know, I just need to make the time to do that properly. My biggest concern was that it had to stay fun to drive on the street. I am amazed at how little I needed to do to dial it in for that. But it has always gnawed at me that my Frankenstein 850 was limiting the car at the track. Although I have severely limited the car's potential to put up big numbers in many ways, at least I think I have the right hardware on top of the motor now!

  13. He wants 'fuel economy'! kicking

     

    I'm getting at least 8 gallons to the mile now!

     

    And I'm desperately trying to shift the thamn ding at 6500, but it gets to 7000 much faster than I can anticipate yet. Time to touch up the trans probably, but the 850 got me well into the 10's, so this can't hurt!

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