Mr70Monte
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Posts posted by Mr70Monte
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in a 200R4, the speedometer is driven off the governor gear, you access it by removing the pan & governor housing,
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My '70 (350-300hp) has 2 lines from the tank, (fuel & return). The return line comes off the metal fuel filter (AC GF-432) right above the water pump, its the same setup that was used on '69 Chevelles. If my memory serves me correct, this was used on the L48 (350-300hp) when air conditioning was ordered.
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mine are as Rob described (they are even dated A 70). These are 2 piece rotors, they have a replaceable disc that is bolted to the hub (disc is not available now), maybe someone replaced the disc while they were still available. This type of rotor was also used on '67-'69 Z28's and are very pricey.
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break your other one, its the perfect time to do this simple power window upgrade........https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gadOiOarQI
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there should not be any dash lights come on with the key in the "Accessory" position. They will come on with the key in the "ON" position.
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Ok this might sound stupid, but is the rotor going around when you crank the engine? Pull the cap and actually look as the engine turns over.
As for the coil, it's common to hook them up backwards: the positive (+) side should be hooked up to the power supply, and the neg (-) side goes to the points. Make sure your points are adjusted so they both open AND close. When the points close, it triggers the spark. You can unhook the points wire from the coil and replace it with a length of wire that will reach a ground...with the key on, the coil should throw a spark when you touch the temp wire to ground. The coil basically fills up when the points are open then fires a spark when the points close. The points are just a simple switch that turn on/off that wires' connection to ground.
no wonder I could never get my car to run right, I always thought that the coil fired when the points opened!
also, please explain how "the coil fills up when the points are open"
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depends on the cam, if you have a roller cam, no break in is needed.
but if you have a flat tappet cam, as soon as it fires up, get the rpms up (2000-3000) & keep them there for 30 minutes (no idling) if you have any leaks or other problems, shut it down , fix them & then continue the break in process.
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I guess it pays to be in the HVAC field, I've got about 45lbs of R12.
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if you don't want to worry about the chrome ones rusting, Pypes make them in stainless steel, here's the part number, PYPES EVT54
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if your referring to the lens at the top of the float, it just plastic, I redid mine, repainted it with a translucent paint I found at a craft store. You will also notice the repair I had to do in the middle of the float itself, heat shrink tubing worked fine.
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As said before, when the fluid is low, the float drops & the red part of the float is placed between the light & the fiber optic cable, when the fluid is high enough, the float is raised & the green part is between the bulb & fiber optic cable. The float internal piece is plastic, it is very fragile & will break easily, the top part that changes the color from green to red is plastic also, its just tinted enough to change the color.
Here are a few pics I just took of an extra float assembly I have. Years ago, I was lucky enough to find a NOS one at Super Chevy Indy, for the amazing prize of $5.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0016/83/21/16063812_large.jpg
http://carphotos4.cardomain.com/images/0016/83/41/16063814_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0016/83/51/16063815_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0016/83/61/16063816_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0016/83/91/16063819_large.jpg
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BTW, here's a Hurst Competition Plus T5 S-10 shifter.
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Sam,
I just did some measuring on my T5, from the front of the transmission (not the bell housing) to the center of the shifter is 21", it starts at 19" +/- & ends at 23" +/-. The overall length of it is 24.5"
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I do know that the T5 is 3" longer than a 200r4, which is the same length as a TH350. All factory T5 bell housings used a 10.5" clutch & tilted the T5 towards the driverside, I have seen a T5 installed straight up using a standard bell housing, the only problem doing it this way is the mount is tilted 17 degrees to the passenger side then. If you were to use a standard bell housing, the linkage would be the same as a Muncie. Also, if a standard bell housing was used, the shifter would be on the top, dead center of the tunnel. Hurst makes shifters for T5's, I have a Billet Plus (NIB) & just yesterday bought a Competition Plus, they are both designed for a Camaro & compensate for the 17 degree tit, so when installed they are straight. But Hurst does make one for a S-10 (T5 is not tilted) shifter base is straight.
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non WC & WC's have the same ratios, WC's just have better bearings. I just got my T5 last weekend, '92 305 Camaro, ratios are 2.95, 1.94, 1.34, 1.00, 0.63 & a 2.76 reverse. I doubt the shifter would be in the same location as a Muncie, the T5 is tilted 17 degrees to the driverside, but everything I've seen shows the shifter location being slightly off center in the transmission tunnel, not on the side like a Muncie.
I know that the 78-81 Malibus, Montes, & El Caminos had 3 & 4 speeds, their shifter location was on the side of the tunnel like a FGMC, but when doing a T5 swap in one of them, the T5 shifter goes to the top of the tunnel, under the console.
if you need any measurements from the T5, just let me know.
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I'm currently doing a T5 swap in my '87 SS, its all original, stock 305. A T5 transmission isn't the strongest thing out there, the non WC (before '88) were only rated for 280 ft. lbs of torque, while the WC ('88 & later) are rated for 300 ft. lbs. They were never installed behind a 350, 305's were its max.
now if you were to use a Tremec TKO, thats a different story.
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wow, sounds like you've been busy.......
how about some pics of the new motor, we all love to see pics....while your taking pics, show us the hole in the old motor.....
like they say "no pics, it didn't happen!"
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did this all take place last week, when you supposedly raced it & blew up the motor?
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unless thats a roller cam, your killing it letting it idle......
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I always adjust them by tightening the nut until there is no more pushrod movement up & down (thats zero lash) then 1/4 turn tighter, never have had a problem.
btw, you better get it right, you want that engine to fire up as fast as possible, it doesn't take long to damage a new cam. then 2000 rpms for 15-20 minutes, no idle time (unless its a roller cam)
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I used a greenlee hydraulic knockout when I did mine years ago, it did a much smoother job than a holesaw, also alot smoother edge.
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I've used this starter for several years, its an exact fit, right down to having the R & S terminals on the solenoid.
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looks to be a GM HEI with a Mallory coil on it, you don't need a ballast wire or resistor on it.
does that distributor have a vacuum advance on it?, by the way it's installed, it would have the advance pointing towards (or hitting) the firewall.
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Mallory Unilite requires a ballist resistor or wire, unless it is controlling a aftermarket ignition box like an MSD.
if he would post a pic of his distributor, it would be easier to tell if he needs the resistor wire or not.
M21 Crankshaft Pilot Bushing ...
in Drivetrain Tech
Posted
why use the old bronze bushing, use this instead https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-ct1078?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-acdelco&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1LTHnJXE1gIVQ1mGCh1wwAvYEAQYAyABEgINavD_BwE