Mr70Monte
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Posts posted by Mr70Monte
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close ratio Muncie's were used on higher hp engines that had lower rear gears (3.55,3.73,4.10&4.56), the main purpose of them was to keep the engine in the upper rpm range after shifting gears.
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high hp V8 engines got a Muncie, low hp V8's, 6's & 4 bangers got a Saginaw.......what do you think you should choose!
also cars with 2.73 to mid 3's got a M20(wide ratio)
3.55 & up got a M21(close ratio)
also there was a M22(aka Rockcrusher) that was available in very high hp engines.
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I had a 200-4r in my '70 for years, it was column shifted & I had all gears, manually selecting 1st gear was a lil bit tricky, I could just barely get it with the column shifter, never had any other problems with the stock 350 shifter setup.
The detent inside the transmission is what selects the gears, the shifter just moves the detent...I find it hard to believe it could go in between two gears.....I have had mine apart several times, I stopped using it after a pressure problem, due to the pump.
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A 350 with the 3.75 stroke (400 crank) is a 377 with a .030 overbore, or a 383 with .060 overbore.
huh? a 383 is a 350 block bored .030 with a 3.75" stroke
388CID with a .060 overbore
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years ago, I helped a friend start up a 396-375 in a 68 Camaro, I didn't know he reused to old solid lifter cam, fired up 2500 rpms for 30 minutes, great oil pressure during this time, then I found out the cam had already been broken in, dropped the rpms down to an idle.......no oil pressure, called my friend that built the motor, his first question was what oil filter did he use......FRAM....changed it to an AC Delco....not a problem then.
just a thought1
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either check the pinion nut or the ring gear bolts.
8.2" has 1 1/8 pinion nut and 3/8 ring gear bolts with 9/16 heads.
8.5" has 1 1/4 pinion nut and 7/16 ring gear bolts with 3/4 heads.
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its probably one of these 2 cams,
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-01003/
or
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRO-00904/
both have your same specs.
looks to be a decent cam.
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The difference is at the rear of the base it has no threaded hole for vac fitting for brake booster
My 7040202 carb has no port on the back of the base, I have a hard steel line coming off the vacuum tee on the intake manifold, then a rubber hose going to the booster.
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Originally Posted By: Mr70Montethe throttle arm would be different, no need for kickdown linkage on a manual trans.
My guess would be the quantity of vacuum ports because a manual trans doesn't have a modulator. Just a guess.
The transmission modulator hooks up to the intake manifold on an automatic transmission.
so, what is the correct answer?
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the throttle arm would be different, no need for kickdown linkage on a manual trans.
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Sam,
counting off my memory, I think there are 11 pieces total, thats counting the 2 rear (chrome) corners.
if you talking about the piece that rises from the quarter panel, up to, the roof, it just slides inside the other piece.
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How did you arrive at that conclusion w/o knowing my rear tire height?
If you used my 3rd gear rev's.. that might explain it.. I had the wrong #.. it's about 3300 or so in 3rd gear. I have no idea where I got 2800 from
I don't need your tire height, if your running 3300rpm in drive, then 70mph in OD would be 2310rpm.
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right now, my 355 makes about 300hp.. pushes me thru the 1/4 in the 14.2's @ 96ish mph.. and gets about 13mpg hwy @ 70mph @ 2800 rpm with 3.55 gears. (no overdrive).. IF my o.d worked, it'd be 2250rpm @70mph
this is kinda getting off this topic, but at but in OD you should only be turning 1960rpm @ 70mph.
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Larry,
at both the monitor or the sender there is a slot that can be pried open slightly to release the fiber optic cable, just insert a small flat blade screwdriver in it & gently twist while pulling the cable out. The cable has a metal retainer at each end that snaps into either the sender or the monitor.
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here is a guy's website, http://www.ptsnctb.com/ that knows what he talking about when it comes to building a 2004R, on his site, top center of the page, click on "Strenghtening the 2004R".
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Figure out how far your tire size rolls in 1 revolution...
24560R15---245 / 25.4 x .6 x 2 + 15 = 26.575" dia tire, x 3.1415926 = 83.488 / 12 = 6.96' per revolution
60mph x 5280'(feet in a mile) / 60 (minutes in an hour)/ 6.96 (distance that your tire rolls) = 758.62 (axle revolutions per minute) x 3.36 (axle ratio) x .7 (OD ratio for a 700r4) = 1784 (engine rpm)
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if you are using a torque convertor that has a lockup & it is locked up when in OD, your rpms would be,
3.36-------1785 rpm @ 60
3.90-------2072 rpm @ 60
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If my memory is correct, there is only a very small pin hole where the hose connects to the filter, it is a return line to the gas tank....supposed to help against vapor locking by returning a very small amont of gas back to the tank.
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Kevin,
only '70 models with a/c used this filter.
they are hard to find, if you do find one, be ready to pay a good penny for it.
the original AC part number is GF-432
search GF432 on ebay
P.S. I forgot that they repo this filter now, google GF432
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yep, 350 4 bbl (L-48), 200hp w/auto trans.
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Just a quick note here, the Chevelle & Monte's used the same remote mirror, but the base gasket is different, a NOS remote mirror includes both gaskets, I know this because I purchased the NOS unused Monte Carlo gasket from a kit that a guy bought for a Chevelle.....I can't remember if a Chevelle gasket has anything on it or not, but the Monte gasket has "Monte Carlo" on it.
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Rob,
I'm just using the tire you gave me for show, its stored safely in the trunk, I just put the 2 tires on 1 side of the car with the fender skirts to take pics of it only.
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here's what would have been on mine,
One of these tires is the original spare out of Rob Peters '70 Monte, the other I found in a '70 Caprice. They are both G78x15 tires with dual WSW (white side wall) one is a Firestone & one is a Uniroyal.
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Carl,
I'm running a basic 350/300hp with a 278 Crane Cam, I did have 3.73's, but last summer I put the 2.73's back in for better gas mileage. It cruises right along without any problems.
Power door lock switch - troubleshooting
in Electrical Tech
Posted
there should be 3 terminals on the back of the switch.
kinda like this
( lock) o o (common)
(unlock) o
using your meter (analog or digital) on the lowest ohms setting, black wire to common, red wire to lock.......move switch on front, meter should move....
then move the red wire to the unlock terminal......do the same with the switch......meter should move
I've disassembled the switches before, but never had any luck with getting them to stay back together, new switches for '70 are now available. hope this helps.