PhatNBad
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Posts posted by PhatNBad
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4 hours ago, DragCat said:
Juan, there are tons of threads here with all the specific math numbers lol. Ive always been a fan of the old Keystones, hold on to them they are hard to get these days
Yeah I read a ton of them earlier but I didn’t come across the factory backspace and offset numbers. Or anything regarding tire width with skirts.
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TGIF everyone. Im changing wheels on my car. It has had keystone classics on it for 37 years. I’m thinking about moving up to a 17 inch wheel when I get the new wheels. I know the bolt pattern 5 x 4.75 but I don’t know the factory backspace or offset. I also plan on putting the skirts on my car. So im looking for recommendations/advice on wheel/tire combos that won’t affect the skirts. If I have to stay with the factory size that’s fine, I just don’t know the backspace and offset to order the new wheels. I’ve just always thought the factory wheel/tire combo looked a little small on our cars. Thanks, I appreciate it.
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14 hours ago, zmanabba said:
Sorry that no one has replied. I will be doing the same swap in the future but not for another year. From what I have gathered so far the stock crossmember can be used by cutting of he mounting tab from the front and switching to the rear. You will probably need to slide the crossmember back also. If it doesn't match up with existing holes in the frame then new ones will need to be drilled. The mounting tab will need to be welded back on. Make sure to keep the 4l80e on the same height as the old set up to maintain the proper drive shaft geometry. Easiest way to do this is to use an angle finder at the back of the transmission. You should be able to download an app for your phone. As a last note make sure that your engine and transmission mounts are in good shape while making measurements, both old and new transmissions. This can throw of the angles and drive shaft vibrations aren't fun.
Thanks for the reply. I did hear that before about cutting the mounting tab off the front of the factory xmember, flipping it over and welding it to the backside. I do have a question in my head about it. Would the new location for the tab be in the same exact spot (height) as when it was on the front, except on the back of the xmember? I guess what I mean is the mounting point on the 4L80E at the same height as the turbo 350 (to keep the pinion angle the same)?
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Hi folks. I’m having a 4l80e built for my 70. Will a turbo 400 xmember work? Or is any fabrication work needed and how involved is it. Thanks I appreciate it.
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Thanks Dennis. I have no idea whats up front. I knew the backs had air shocks, because I installed them and the springs probably 10 years ago or more when I first got the car (although I dont remember what springs I used). It was sitting basically on the rear tires...The shocks and springs were toast. so probably this weekend Ill change out the front springs and shocks and see what I have and go from there. I appreciate all the info from everyone. I took a nice pic in Home Depot parking lot the other night, Im going to post that in a few. Thanks again.
Juan
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Guys...some have mentioned that maybe things will even out once I do the front springs and shocks but wouldn't new springs and shocks just raise the front even more?
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Here's the baby...I tried posting it in here but for some reason it was showing upside down and HUGE even though I resized it and rotated it right side up..
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Steve, yes you will be close....Im 5 minutes from Latham. Hows the ride with the cc501's? I have a couple pics Im going to try to upload in a few.
Juan
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Sam those pics in my photo bucket are a year or 2 old. I just did the rear springs and shocks this past weekend. I just measured from the rocker to the ground just behind the front tire and just in front of the back tire and the rear is up about 3/4 inch to an inch. So that's fine I suppose but I haven't done the fronts yet. Maybe I won't. Lol. I'll take pics tomorrow. It's already getting dark here in ny.
Juan
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Thanks for all the info. Im actually going to take the car out of the garage, and step back and take a good look at it. Maybe Ill take a couple pics and post them, and you can all tell me what you think. Again thanks for the info.
One other question - are there supposed to be the rubber...I'll call them insulators on both ends of the spring; up in the spring pocket and on the axle where the spring sets?
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Leghome, MCfan,
I havent changed anything in the front at all, but I do have the springs and sensa-tracs for the front just havent gotten to them yet. The pics on my photobucket page are a year or 2 old. I had air shocks and different rear springs, I think variable rate, and the car hit hard, felt every bump, and not knowing if it was the fronts or backs, or shocks or springs that needed to be replaced, I figured Id just change everything to factory spec parts, thinking it would sit nice and ride nice. I havent test drove it yet and wont judge the ride til I do the front springs and shocks. I didnt take any measurements before I did the swap this past weekend. I didnt realize it would change so much. Kinda bummed. MCfan, thanks for the compliment.
Juan
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Leghome,
Thats why Im a little confused because they are the factory springs, and are brand new, but I always thought the monte sat even from front to back, if it were new, and mine seems to be sitting a little low in the back.
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Hello everyone,
I just replaced my rear springs with moog #5379 and for shocks I used the Monro Sensa-tracs. The car sits kinda low in the back now. Im not sure I like it. Could it just be the shocks are too soft/weak? Im pretty sure the springs are factory replacement. Any input is appreciated. Thanks a lot!
Juan
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Hi folks.....I had brand new full length headers for my 84ss monte but decided to go with shortys on it because I lowered it. So I took the full lengths and put them on my 70 (small block). The fit was just about perfect but the drivers side hangs lower than passenger side and bottoms out every once in a while. Is this common? Could it be just cause they were for a different car? Or are drivers side typically lower than the passenger side? I'd hate to buy other headers if it's not going to make a difference.
Thanks for the help!
Juan
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footballubet - can you send me pics of the valve covers you have? I used the 383 stroker valve covers from summit, but if they get beat up, id love to have a set of dart VC's cause I used a dart intake and heads. What 3/8 water temp sensor did you use? All the research I did says that they're isn't a 3/8 npt sensor that has the right resistance for our cars. Is there? Id love to have one. Im still confused though. The sensor I took out of my stock heads has 2 spade connectors, I dont have another sensor anywhere. So if that one is for the TSC solenoid (which was in the drivers side head) where is my temp sensor? I didnt have a threaded stud sensor anywhere, so I dont have any other wires, just the 2 spades that originally went to the stock sensor. Confused....
If you want to email me pics of the VCs, send them to superChevy@nycap.rr.com.
Thanks!
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Hi folks....I just put a 383 stroker in my 70. The new motor only has a 3/8 npt port in the side of the drivers side head (dart), so my temp (water) sensor wont fit cause its 1/2 npt. Moving it to the intake is not a problem, but Im wondering why the wiring is 2 wires? Seems most of them Ive seen on montes and chevelles is 1 wire. Since I have the original sensor with the 2 flat spade connections, this isn't and issue but Im curious why? Thanks for your input.
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Well Im still working on it...I have 3 projects going on and just getting back to this. This is what I think Im leaning towards. What do you all think? Thanks for the help!
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David...Thanks for the reply. I picked up a 69 GTO 3.23 complete posi rear end for it last fall after I installed the 373s. The 373s are a little much with no overdrive. So Im still kinda torn between the 373s with a 200-4r tranny and sell the 3.23 or swapping in the 3.23 I picked up and staying with the th-350. Choices choices.
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Hi folks...I have a 70 Monte, that originally had a 273 rear gear ratio. Last summer I installed 373s... Id like to upgrade to a limited slip rear end. Im assuming the existing rear is a single wheel peel (open?). I was wondering if anyone could give me recommendations. Diff 1 and Diff 2 are the 2 that I found on summit racing narrowing it down using their filters. Thanks for the advice!
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Anyone have a bare one laying around they can measure for me?
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How can I check it out since its a bare frame (no rear-end, or front suspension, no cowl)?
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Hi guys....I hope Im in the right area....
Are the chevelle frames and the monte frames identical? If not is there a way to tell which I have? I bought a nice frame from someone (not a member on here), but he mostly sells chevelle stuff, and I just want to make sure its a monte frame before I go and have it powder coated.
Thanks!
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Hey guys...Are there any threads on installing the 502 ramjet efi into our cars? I used the search, but it keeps telling me no results. Thanks, I appreciate it.
72 402
in Engine Tech
Posted
Happy New Year everyone! Debating doing some performance upgrades to my 402 or going 454. I just wondering what y’all have done to upgrade your 402’s to get a little me more HP. I’m not trying to get 500hp. I’m totally ok with 400-ish. Thanks for the advice!