680HPStroker
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Posts posted by 680HPStroker
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I concure about the 2" Hooker Competion series BB headers. Besides relocating the brake proportioner you may need to dimple one of the primary tubes on the drivers side to clear the steering shaft(some do and some don't). For that reason I'd buy the painted black ones, do all your fit up, and them have them coated. Even for a mild engine 2" primary tubes are not going to rob you of much torque(it's a big block and that equals lot's of torque) and gives you room to grow down the road should you decide to modify your engine. Personally I would use the same approach when choosing an exhaust system. A 2.5" system is ok for now, but down the road they might be holding you back. That is why I went with a 3" system from the get go. If you need a recommendation as to a manufacture pm me and I'll be glad to share. Good luck and remember do it right the first time. Taking short cuts and doing things on the cheap will always go bad in the end.
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I use a product called Star Tron from the folks at Star brite. It does the same thing as the Stabil brand. It costs $10.00 for an 8oz bottle at Wally World. Initial treatment is 1oz for every 8 gallons and after that it's 1oz for every 16 gallons of fuel. The only I can tell it works in the Monte is that the car starts easy and runs right even after setting for a couple months. In my bike I can tell a difference in power and I get a little better fuel economy. In my truck I just notice a 2-3 mpg improvement and less less spark knock which means the ecu isn't pulling back the power as much. I will look at the Stabil stuff and give it a try.
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I'll second the NGK R8 plugs. I have straight cut threads in my heads and the NGK's are the only ones that fit my form and function. I can't comment on longevity as I replace my plugs every year no matter how many miles I put on my engine(Off the record a guy at MSD stated NGK's work best with their ignition).
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I'll second a VFN bolt on hood with a 4" cowl is a POS. Came with a bow and massive edge pinholes. Their customer service, well let's just say they don't and leave it at that.
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At 1 5/8" primary tube length for your headers you will be fine for now, but they will become a chock point if you ever decide you want to put out some bigger ponies. I'd just put the duals on for now until you have fresh engine with all the goodies you want in it. Then I'd match my primary tube size to engine output. As far as exhaust goes if you are on a budget having an H, or X pipe system welded up by trustworthy local shop will save you money. If you can swing it I would recommend an exhaust system from Torque Tech. Hands down the best exhaust systems on the market for GM "A" Body cars(JMO). As far as intake and carb goes I agree with others in making them last and once again I wouldn't worry about them until you have a fresh engine. For price and function I like the Eddy Performer RPM intake. I've had real good luch with those manifolds. As far as a carb goes unless you are a real good tuner I'd recommend having a carb built for your combo. No off the shelf carb works for all. I recommend a custom AED carb(starts with Holley cores) Good luck to you.
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Too many receipts for too many mods. I just keep a running folder. If I need to find something I just pull it out.
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Unless you have an all original, nubers matching, trailer queen I'd just cut the dash and be done with it. Folks spend to much time sweating an all original look. You enjoy things more when you do it the way you want and say to heck with everyone else. If the glovebox makes you happy that's cool to. Enjoy.
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Seeing those pics brings back memories of when I first took my 315cnc heads out of the box. I couldn't believe how awesome they looked inside and out. Once again you will be extremely happy when you get your engine/car all dialed in.
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All those online calculators out there should be used for nothing more than a ROUGH gauge. There is is no majical formula that applies to every car. Check out guys with setups that consistantly run where you want to be and go from there.
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Mike you absolutely made the right call in letting AFR do the machine work. They will come to you ready to bolt on and your full warranty to go with them. AFR BB heads are the bomb.
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Once again congrats on purchasing the best cylinder heads money can buy. Your car will be an absolute beast.l
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DON'T BUY YOUR HEADERS ALREADY CERAMIC COATED! Buy them painted black, test fit them, make any required modifications to fit your application, and then send them off to be coated. No two FGMC's are the same. Some folks can bolt the headers right in with no issues, while others have to dimple and otherwise massage their headers to fit them properly.
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I always set the lash on a solid roller cam to the spec on the cam card your cam manufacture supplies with your new cam. There is no one fits all setting. There is a reason why the manufacture gives you the spec they do.
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I'm hopefully getting a GV this year as well. Reading this thread I feel as though I probably won't have tunnel, or crossmember fitment as I have a custom crossmember that gives a lot of room for exhaust and tailshaft clearance. Once I get mine in I'll start going on longer cruises again. I miss out on two 2.5 hour trips to Henderson NC every year that my local car club makes to a massive car show and a drive-in cruise.
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Congrats on buying the best headers money can buy in AFR. Too bad they aren't as well recognized on the east coast as Dart is, but when put side by side they flow better right out of the box.
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Hooker 2" Competition Headers and a 3" Toque Tech X-Pipe exhaust system is what I'd go with. That setup will work well for today and carry you through any modifications you make to you setup down the road. Even if 2" primary tubes are a tad bit big for your current combo who cares, it's a big block. You will still have plenty of torque. All JMHO.
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If you are over powering your chassis on street tires as I assume you are, no drag radial, or dot approved tire will stop you from going up in smoke from a stoplight. I recommend two sets of tires. A regular street tire for every day and a set of dedicated slicks for track times. I currently have BFG drag radials on and can't wait to get them off and go back to street tires for ride quality. I may make it to a test and tune night one day just to know, but I'm pretty confident in what my car is capeable of with traction so I'm in no hurry to potentially crack up $40,000.00 worth of hard work. If I still have my car and it/me holds up till 2017 I figure I'll have got my return on my investment and then start beating it a little.
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You are in the same power area I'm in and there was nothing to gain by going open from my every day closed system. That system is a 3.5" into 3" Torque Tech system. My system necks down to 3" just in front of my Dynomax mufflers. I love it. The power is there, the tone is there when you want it, but when just cruising I don't have to yell to have conversation with either a passenger, or someone on the cell.
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All good points, but all I know is that anyone who is building a serious high power engine of any displacement usually opts for 2340 forged steel H-beam rods from their favorite manufacture.
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Valvetrain.
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Sounds like it's all coming together for you. Reminds me of when my 489 was almost done. I was so excited I had trouble sleeping at night. Makes me think I need to either rebuild my engine, or build a different engine for the thrill of it. Have a blast with the 502. Folks who have never owned a powerfull big block will never understand.
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Thanks Red. If I get them I'll have to drill a pvc hole and a breather hole. Then I'd have them chromed.
Which new TH400 would be best
in Drivetrain Tech
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Get yours rebuilt by a reputable tranny shop. A stock TH400 will hold to 900HP with no modification. Unless you have done your homework the converter you have may not be the right one for your application. There are no two setups that require the same stall speed for optimum performance. Don't forget the Spicer 1350 series u-joints, 4340 tranny yoke, and 4340 pinion yoke(you can pay now, or pay later). Good luck with your project.