Lou
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Posts posted by Lou
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Yeah Scott, that's what I'm talking about with the 200-4R or the 700-R4 (which I already have). It may be better and more cost efficient to just go with the Gear Vendors OD which bolts onto the existing th350.
But, haven't gotten that far yet. Just forward planning at this point/talking to people for info.
The first thing I'll do is find a stock console and horseshoe shifter to put in in place of the one that's there now which is a mid-seventies something. So, my considerations now have a lot to do with what I end up with.
My son already told me when he gets the car he's putting a manual in it anyway.
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I've heard that the TH350/200 4R is a straight up swap beside the TV cable setting and pressure checks required for the OD. I'll end up doing something like that or even better and way more bullet proof, stick with the TH350 and add a Gear Venders OD to it. I think the 350 is original to the car so there's that consideration also. Haven't gotten into it yet.
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I probably saw that but thought it was just a junction block. I replaced the rear driver side line.
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Yeah, I think I need LED's.
At least I'll now be able to see how fast in going at night.😎
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10 bolt. Plans are a pleasant weather weekend street/parkway cruiser. Plus local shows.
My last Chevelle had 3:73's, my current daily 96 Silverado has 3:55's, my 90 silverado which I still have has 3:73's. But the trucks have OD tranny's.
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Yes. I have both.
Are you saying there's a third one back by the rearend?
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That's actually good news. I planned on changing the gears to 3:55 or 3:73.
The car is drivable as it is but as far as launch, forget it.
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Manual transmission guy.
And yes, I only have an issue from a dead stop. I need to build rpms to get moving. I can mash the peddle in 2nd and will drop down to 1st normally. It's just an issue from a dead stop.
Stock converter, 3:08 posi, 225/70/R15.
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Next on the inspection and repair list will be the TH350.
FYI, I'm a manual guy so go easy on me.
When I start from a dead stop the car gradually increase in speed. when 2nd and 3rd kick in you can feel it good. Before going the rebuild route, I'd like to know if there's anything to check without pulling the tranny in order to eliminate it. The guy I bought it from told me before I even test drove it that he had the tranny rebuild and checked for the same issue and that "It's not the transmission".
I know it's not the brakes dragging or the tranny fluid level.
What else can I check? Modulator? vacuum lines?
What would cause the issue?
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Done!
If you listen close you might be able to hear that vintage 'click'.
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I used Gorilla Epoxy to set the gear on the rod.
Fingers crossed.
Tried to polish the lens, cleaned it up (glossy) but still has a fog to it.
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It's kinda' cool just watching that clock work......
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53 minutes ago, MC1of80 said:
Pull
Makes sense. Thanks!
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Senior moment.
Do you pull or push the adjustment rod to adjust the clock on a 70?
I have the clock apart for cleaning and attempted repair of contact point and adjustment rod.
I have a spring, gear, rod, and a pocket where I think the spring should go which would necessitate pulling the rod to adjust clock. Just want to be sure before I press gear on the rod.
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Sweet! Thanks!
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23 hours ago, kpcsgasp said:
Thanks for all the suggestions. fortunately, the problem was the park interlock switch. I ran it through the gears a couple of times and it started right up. Again thanks for all the suggestions.
Sounds like a good excuse to put a 5-speed in. All I know about automatics is the fluid level. I'll be learning more about them soon enough.
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Can I use led bulbs in my cluster without changing/adding circuit update? If not, what are the brightest 194 bulbs available for our cars?
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34 minutes ago, MC1of80 said:
Depends on the build date. I have had a few 70s, built at the Baltimore plant, that did not have the extra valve.
My 70 SS, Big Red has the valve and was built at the Flint plant Sept 69.
My 70 was built in April at Flint.
How do you bleed your brakes or could the valve be the problem?
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Thanks for posting this, Grant!
l think mine is torn in the same area. And my clock adjustment rod was bent but even though I straightened out I can't find the gears.😂
I had one rebuilt years ago for my 69 SS but I don't remember where. Oh well, at least it will be right twice a day.😎
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Sounds like no power to solenoid.
Check ignition fuse?
Try giving the starter a couple whacks with a persuasion tool. If that doesn't work jump across the solenoid. If the starter comes to life check your ignition switch.
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Small victories, yes.
But time to think big as long as I have people in the know........
From left to right:
Headlight switch ground, gauge cluster connection, 2nd ground, clock connection.....
Is it safe to reconnect battery to test these connections with a voltmeter and test light and how do I do it?
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No button on combination valve.
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Apparently, this is a 'hold off' valve?
That's the valve im talking about.
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I got to 20 psi gradually when I didn't get any fluid at lower psi.
I tried depressing the 'button' under the rubber boot of the prop. valve but it feels solid so I didn't force it.
Could it be stuck?
TH350
in Drivetrain Tech
Posted
Hmm, sounds fun.
I don't want to be cutting up original sheet metal.
So, maybe I'll just stay off the highway and stick with the stock trans and a 3:73. Yeah, that's the plan.
Like I said when my son gets it, he can put in his manual.