Lou
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Posts posted by Lou
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Got it. Compressed assembly until it stopped and gave it a wack with my persuasion tool. Seals are bad.
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Any ideas what could be hanging up?
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Front spring is suspect. Not seeing any movement.
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Upon cleaning and bench bleeding I found the front reservoir is non-operational. Upon disassembly and removal of lock spring I found that the piston assembly will not come out. There's a small bolt in the bottom of the reservoir that I removed but piston assembly still won't come out. It doesn't feel like there's a burr at the lock spring groove.
What am I missing?
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3 hours ago, Rancid87 said:
I use a generic cheap flaring tool and as long as I clamp it in the vise it makes pretty good flares. The hydraulic tools will make life easier though.
That's the one I currently have.....and I also use it in the vice.
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3 hours ago, MC1of80 said:
On my son's pro street 70 Monte we used a combo of inline pre bent brake lines and we made a few. I used this kit from Amazon. Double flaired with no issues.
I was looking at that very kit on Amazon. I still have my original line springs on the car so I'll reuse them.That's how I did my last Chevelle.
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What are the advantages of a 37* angle? Better seal?
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1 hour ago, Rancid87 said:
If you are looking for a direct replacement Inline Tube is the way to go. If you are looking to bend your own you could get some copper nickel brake line and fittings and bend your own pretty easily. I've done that on a few cars.
That's what I'm looking at. I want to change them all but I've read a lot about some of the alloys being so soft they're hard to get a good flare. Especially 3/16th.
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2 hours ago, Scott S. said:
Restoring, modifying, or making it your daily driver ??
Daily driver/driving restoration/quality oriented.
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What's everyone using for brake lines?
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Thanks Jared.
I don't even know if the new one is available yet but I know the amd one is. I'll wait a little longer to see which is better for a first time replacement.
I have other things to do with the car.
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Thanks for the answers.
Can't wait to drop everything from this chassis and clean her up under there. Been an Ohio car all her life and no sign of seeing salt.
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Car has an April of 70 build date.
Could possibly have something to do with the strike and lack of parts.
I'll have to talk to the guy I got it from. His grandparents bought it new in 70.
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I just assumed that the fuel lines were routed on a Monte just like they were on a Chevelle. Then I came across four lines at the front of the gas tank that look like they're routed way different than a Chevelle.
Why 4 lines??
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I was just under the 70 and cleaned of the axle tube. The code reads FK 0415 B. This codes out to a 10-bolt 308:1 positraction out of a 69 Chevelle?
Any ideas what is going on?
And how high can of a gear ratio can I go to?
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On 2/17/2022 at 6:51 AM, JP_AstroMan said:
If anyone knows the best way to get all this glue off, I'm all ears.
I bought my first 69 Chevelle in 1985 from my uncle for $800. It had a vinyl top so that why I'm pretty partial to the look, but it has to be black. I don't like any other colors of vinyl. Anyway I used paint stripper to strip the paint and glue off the the flat section of the roof. Use a light coating on all the sections that you can safely sand without worry of panel warpage then use 80 grit on your sander since your going to have to sand that roof anyway.
No matter what you choose to do prime the roof with epoxy primer to seal it. Then do any needed bodywork.
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Has anybody seen or heard anything about the OPGI roof skin specifically for the monte carlo? (not Chevelle)
Looks to have the same mating surface to the quarter panel sail area as the original.
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Yes, thank you for taking the time.
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On 8/21/2020 at 9:45 PM, Dtret said:
Only one guess on the price. So I’ll give it up. 750 bucks. Cleaned the fuel tank of sludge and drove it home listening to that wonderful am radio. He said it drive ok but the tires vibrate a little. Been sitting 35 years in a barn. He really didn’t want it ( same reasons posted above) but couldn’t pass it up
Wow!
The engine alone is worth more than that.
Good find!
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My wife just bought one the other day. You can order them and pic them up at your nearest Hallmark store.
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I would NEVER destroy a historical peice of history like that. Please reconsider. Pull the original powertrain and set it aside. My opinion. These cars are beyond classics now.
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If Baltimore start their sequence numbers with a 2, then your car would have been the 779th that rolled off the line.
Bear in mind that the UAW called o strike in September of 1969 so full production did not happen until January of 1970.
This may mean that management assembled your car......I'd check all the bolts.😂😂😂😷
My car is F138237 which is the 38,237th to come off the Flint assembly line in April of 1970.
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My other black beauty:
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On 9/21/2020 at 11:16 PM, Rancid87 said:
I replaced the roof skin on mine. Overall, a pretty easy job. You'll have to make a couple small filler pieces in the back but it didn't take very long to do it.
Ha, I've got all winter up here in northern Ohio......
Master cylinder rebuild issue.
in Brakes and Suspension Tech
Posted
I'll work with what I have.
First time I've ever gotten into a master cylinder.