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Posts posted by JP_AstroMan
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1 hour ago, MC1of80 said:
Sorry, forgot to quote ya..
On Big Red, can you adjust both ride height and make it super stiff independently? So here's what I'm thinking IF I can adjust both...these are rated for 1900-2100lbs. Which is an estimate on my front end. Stock iron headed BB is 2128lbs.
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On Big Red, can you adjust both ride height and make it super stiff independently?
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These coils are for 68-72 A bodies...with no info on spring rate.
Question on the coilovers...they adjust for height but do they also adjust for stiffness?
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With no shock it sits crazy low. One issue I'm having is the spring-assisted shock (pic below) is too wide to slip up from the bottom. So I have to take everything apart to try any combo with that thing. Anyhow, I'm thinking in order to achieve the exact same height as the rear, I need adjustability.
The red BMR springs came in a kit I bought a long time ago for a different project... I'm certain they aren't big block rated but my thinking is this big block weighs about the same as a stock small block.
Any thoughts on these adjustable Coil spacers?
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So I'm having a hard time believing this but wanted to see what you folks think. I installed the two inch drop spring + the new KYB shock. It dropped about 4" and was hideous (see photo). Then I tried installing the old spring assisted shock with the 2" lowering spring and now it's sitting higher than ever before (see second photo). What the heck am I forgetting here?? The previous setup had the spring assisted shock plus a coil that is several inches taller. So how can the car be higher now? I've bounced the car and it feels normal...but not settling.
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Yep, I read that.
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Alright folks...I did some research and listened to your advice. But I went with a cheaper option MAINLY because I can test them out and return them if needed. Made in Japan https://a.co/d/5zh7dde
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I should have mentioned that I have 2" lower springs going in. Not just for the reason above, but I wanted the stance a little lower before the engine change. But I'll keep the shock out with the shorter spring and see how it looks.
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What made you choose the Bilsteins if I may ask?
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So I have changed my '72 from a stock iron 454 to everything being aluminum except the block. My car sits up too high in the front now. So I think I should do away with the spring assisted shocks that were there. I have never purchased front shocks. Seems like an important choice. I live in the mountains and do still need a stiff ride as it's curvy everywhere I go. Does anyone have a recommendation?
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31 minutes ago, Scott S. said:
Nothing wrong with trying to save money..... It's just that some used/cheap parts wind up costing more in the end.
Especially a piece of rubbery plastic!
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7 hours ago, Rob Peters said:
Jeff,
For as much of a pain in the butt as they are to change you would be better off buying new. No, they are not cheap but why put a set of old ones on that may be almost as brittle as the one you are taking off.
rob
I was having a rare "let's save money" day yesterday. I'm back to normal today....
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It's the last thing in a long restoration. I refuse to pay what companies are asking for such an inexpensive part. I just need the outer sweeps for my '72 Monte. Mine are cracking. If anyone has any or knows where I might find some used, please lemme know. Thanks!
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11 hours ago, Dtret said:
A lot of weight on them doors. You have to adjust a little high to allow for the length and weight. If the other door is good then you would have to adjust that to allow for the edge guards. Kinda defeats the purpose. Unless you are only putting on one.
Good point. Definitely don't WANT door guards at all, but after spending all the time and money painting it, I just have to roll with the pizza I've burnt. No going back. I guess I am going to try adjusting this door once again and hope for something miraculous to happen.
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I don't believe any panels have been replaced but I wouldn't know for sure. I painted it because my dream Monte is black. It just looks so damn good on that car. My mistake came when I removed the doors AND hinges. Didn't even mark where the hinges were. But I was able to get the passenger side perfect without damage. But the driver side door wants to sag like the hinge needs a new pin but I don't think it does. There is zero movement in the hinge. I need to find some old photos and zoom in on that gap. I BELIEVE it's always been there...but could be wrong. I do know the door sagged before I removed it because it doesn't line up with the rear fender until it closes and lifts up onto the whatchamacallit. I might just have to move the door forward and put door guards on
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Yeah, the "after paint" part is killing me. I could have added some metal to the door when I had it stripped...but I figured an adjustment would be nothing. I'm likely going to go talk to someone in person...as suggested! Thanks everyone for the honesty.
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Hey folks. My '72 has always had an annoying gap between the door and front left fender. The gap behind the door is good, would not want it to be any larger though or else I would need door guards to fill the space! Anyhow, is it possible to loosen the fender bolts and get it to move maybe 1/8" back? Thanks for any help because I have no idea what's involved with adjusting a fender...
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Shock replacement recommendation?
in Brakes and Suspension Tech
Posted
Ok, thank you sir.