NavyCPO

You're talking about the 8.2" 10 bolt or the 8.5"?

This sounds more like facts here. I've also seen several 4bbl 350's with 2 bolt mains. And my 1970 300HP 350 4bbl I used to have also came with single exhaust, so I know that some of the 4bbl 350's had 2 bolt M's and s. exhaust. Would appreciate it if you could ask your brother, we could all benefit from this info! Thanks!

Ok so before everbody says throw away this 8.2" 10 bolt, let me say this. I used to have a '68 Camaro with a 540 BBC (730HP)and it had an 8.2" 10 bolt in it. I put Richmond 3:73 gears in it with all new carrier and axle bearings and a set of Moser 28 spline axles in it (still used the stock 3 series carrier) and I welded the axle tubes to the housing and never had a problem with the rearend. Now, having said that, the car would usually spin the tires and I never did get the car back halfed or 4 linked or ladder bars. Just leaf springs with slapper bars. But the 8.2" held up to some abuse. I've heard on here that folks say the 8.2" rears can only handle about 400HP. Buying a new Rear End is extremely costly nowadays. What I remember as being about 18-2200 for a fully assembled Moser rearend is today 4700+. Not in my budget. I know I can get a used 12 bolt out of a chevelle and I've seen some. But wanting to hear your experience and knowledge with the 8.2". Thanks in advance!

Another Question....... So my car is a 350 2bbl, and I'm wondering what is the difference between the 350 2bbl and 350 4bbl motors? Other than 50HP! Is it just the Intake and carb? Did they use different heads? Different pistons? Do they still have the 10.25/1 compression ratio? Any of you Engine Guru's out there I'd like to know the REAL differences between the 2bbl and 4bbl 1970 350's. Thanks in advance!

Ok so I got my AC Compressor removed and when I pulled the manifold off of the rear of the compressor the large O-rings just fell out. So I'm thinking, you can usually hold O-rings in place with a little grease, but I'm not sure if that would be acceptable on an A/C system...... Can anyone tell me if a little dab of grease to hold the O-rings into the manifold for reassembly would be acceptable? Or is there something else I should use to hold them. I can just imagine trying to hold the manifold and get the bolt lined up right and dropping the O-rings out several times...............LOL

You're tips helped on the msg boards. Thanks again!

Thank you all for your valuable feedback!

Thank you very much! I didn't see the My Activity Tab at the top. I'll give it a whirl and let you know. Thanks again!

Thanks this is good INFO! I was planning on putting Hooker Headers on my '70 down the road and was wondering about that. I wondered if they were specifically for a Monte Carlo if they would truly be a REAL FIT without having to ding them for steering gearbox or power steering or idler arms etc. etc. like you do with so many other headers. I was thinking that Hooker would probably build headers that really do FIT! I've had Doug Thorley, Hedmans and seemed like they were always hard to install and required some banging and denting to get them in. I was hoping Hooker builds them right. Could never afford them before and had to go with the cheapies.

Came back here to the new members forum because I'm having difficulty understanding the message boards in the various forums. As a former member of Team Camaro and Team Nova I'm used to going on to the boards and seeing the last messages posted first, but on these forums here they seem to be scattered all over the place with 2006 msgs in some cases being the first ones I see. I looked at the drop down menu's and selected Start Date from the Sort option and still they are all over the place. Also I don't know how to view my own posts as they seem to be buried somewhere in the mix with all the rest and not in chronological order. What am I doing wrong? Maybe I'm missing something but I don't see many options. Thanks in advance for your help!

So my original thoughts were that the 1970 350 2 bbl engines would have the same heads as the 350 4bbl cars and the engine block would be basically the same except for the 2 bbl intake and carb. But now I'm not sure. My car has 441 heads on it, and all Mortec.com says is that they came on 69-70 350's with 76cc chambers. I was hoping these would be the so called "fuelie" heads but now I'm thinking they are not. So my question is, Does anyone know what size valves came stock in the 441 heads? I'm hoping they are at least 1.94/1.5 and not the peanut heads 1.7/1.5's. I'm thinking that if they are at least 1.94/1.5 they would be adequate to run 4 bbl intake and carb. Also, does anyone know what the intake runners would be on 441 heads? 165cc 170? 180? Less? One last question, I believe the 300HP 350 had 9.5 or 9.8:1 compression. Should this 2bbl build still have the same pistions etc for the higher compression like the 4bbl 350 or is it actually a whole different engine? Your insight will be greatly appreciated.

Hi Steve, so I checked both front wheels and they both spun pretty freely, got in the car pumped the brakes up, got out, left side still spun freely, but passenger side was a little tighter, I could still spin it, but it was tighter than it was before and significantly tighter than the drivers side. This surprises me because the car pulls left so I thought if I had a tight caliper it would be on the drivers side. I'm still working on other stuff now pwr strg pump, AC Comp/dryer/exp valve, Valve Covers, but I'll be pulling the wheels and tires off soon to start disassembling the brakes and replacing front wheel bearings/races with Timken bearings. Glad I got the Valvoline Red Grease because that's what most of you seem to be using. And I didn't know Timken made grease either! I trust Valvoline products too though.

I am looking to replace fender trim on both front fenders as they have some minor dings. I can only find replacements for Full Sets which include both front and rear for around $200. I am only needing the front pieces and hate to pay $200 for 1/2 of the parts I don't really need. Does anyone have a good source for buying single fender trim per piece or by pairs of front or rear? Also is the stock trim made of aluminum or stainless steel? I have not removed them yet so I'm not sure. Thanks in advance for any assistance!

Too late Dennis, I've already got the engine disabled and the car up on Jacks. I'm going to pull the tires and wheels soon and do the front wheel bearings and I already bought new brake pads for the fronts. I planned on replacing the rubber hoses but haven't ordered those yet. I wanted to get a look at the ones on it, but I'll bet they are the original lines and may be cracking. Don't know about Calipers yet, either, but I will check the things you mentioned while disassembling and see if I see evidence of the problem. I'm changing the power steering pump and the AC Compressor so she is disabled for now.

Ok so I needed to move my questions from the NEW GUY section to the proper forum now that I'm getting more familiar with the site. So when I hit the brakes the car pulls hard left. I've had this problem before on a truck I owned and I can't remember what I did that solved the problem. I just got the car and I'm going through some basic maintenance things and bought new Front Wheel Bearings and races, brake pads so I know where I'm starting from and don't know if the front bearings have ever been serviced or not, so I'm starting with brand new Timken Bearings. My thoughts are that maybe the drivers side caliper is grabbing harder than the passenger? Maybe there's something loose on the front end that when braking and shifting the load to the front wheels maybe something loose on left side i.e. ball joint??? I don't know yet and haven't been able to check all the front end stuff but the car drove fine on the highway when I drove it home a 2 hour drive. Any thoughts?

I'm afraid if I take the pinstriping off it will mess up the paint. The paint is 53 years old and still original paint. I WILL pull the back seat and look for the build sheet though. Maybe I'll get lucky and it will still be there.

I took the belt off this evening and the pulley spins freely, but the clutch will hardly budge. I can get it to move about an inch or so. I shot some WD 40 into it last night in hopes it might free it up, but it's still extremely tight. I'm at a loss as to whether just try a new clutch and hope the compressor is not froze up or if the clutch is hard to turn means the compressor is bad too. The disc seems to have some slack in it so I don't think the clutch is pulled in, but I'm not sure. The belt was on and the car runs fine with the belt on, I guess the pulley is spinning freely like it's supposed to. The car has a replacement compressor on it so someone has already changed the compressor on it at least once. It has a 4 seasons compressor on it.

These are the only pics I have of the car right now and these were at Dusk when she first arrived at her new home in McAlester, OK on April 11th 2023. White vinyl top (it's more cream colored but it may be due to aging, but body tag says white) but in perfect condition and not a bubble anywhere in it. Car has been garaged it's entire life and completely unmolested "SO FAR"..............

First Dumb mistake. Yes the AC belt was on. DUH. I thought the front of the clutch was supposed to turn even with the belt on, but I'm glad you asked the question because now I know. Like I said, I'm not an AC guy. I've owned several classic cars in my life, 1st Gen '68 Camaro w/540 Big Block, '67 Lemans, 71 Nova, 76 Corvette (worst car I ever owned, couldn't give me another one!), 63 Ford Pickup, 68 Mustang. Most of them did not have A/C. I'll double check the Compressor in a few days. right now I'm going through some of the basics, new thermostat, (so I know where I'm starting from), new valve cover gaskets to stop some oil seepage, and man I mean to tell you, it's been a long time since I changed V/C gaskets on something with so many accy's the drivers side was a real bear to get the cover off, remove A/C bracket, remove brake booster line and you know that thing had been on there for 53 years WD40 helped finally get that off, thought I was in the clear then the Bracket for the booster line was in the way too and had to bend that bad boy out of the way, gonna be a bear to go back on too I think. Passenger side was a piece of cake, as it should be! Next comes new shocks front and rear, fix power steering leak, not sure where that's coming from yet but I have 2 brand new p/s lines ready to go on if it's not the pump. I have new front wheel bearings and races coming and new pads. Again, I like to know where I'm starting from, haven't looked at the rotors yet. Tomorrow she'll be coming off the ground for my first REAL look underneath. I have never seen a Chevy 350 with a Metal Plate between the carb and the intake either but that thing sure does get in the way!!!! LOL Must be a 350 2bbl thing. I had a '70 Impala and don't recall it having that but it was the 300hp 350 4bbl. Oh yea, I also owned a '68 Impala and a 71 El Camino. Thanks for your help and input Joe!

Thank you all for your cordial welcome aboard! I appreciate your inputs! I'm already working on the car i.e. new shocks, plugs, thermostat, looking at brakes, etc. but I will post some pic's of my girl soon. Again, thank you for the great responses!

Cool, a fellow Navy Veteran! Thank you for your service as well! And thanks for your input!

Yes you are correct, I meant to type "NOT" instead of NOW. I did read the 12 Volts to the low pressure switch on the reciever dryer and it was present. I then tried to jump the connector (hoping that it would engage the compressor clutch and that it was just low on freon, but not so lucky) but it still did not kick in the compressor clutch, and it doesn't move at all. I then read the wire going from the low pressure switch to the compressor and it was also good so the 12 VDC is definitely making it to the clutch coil. I took a couple of screw drivers and was able to force the clutch to turn but it was extremely tight. I shot some WD-40 between and around the clutch assy in hopes that if it were frozen up it would free itself and at least attempt to start working, but nada. I am thinking of going ahead and replacing the clutch assy and if it still won't work then I think I can order a compressor without the clutch and use the new one that I'm trying. Haven't done it yet but thinking that may be a plan. Also I have heard in the past that if you put a new compressor on a car that you should also start with a new Receiver/Dryer? Any experience with that? I don't know if you really need to do that or not. Thanks for your input!

Hello Everyone! I just purchased a True Survivor '70 Monte Carlo from the estate of a man who purchased the car directly off of the production line when he worked at the Van Nuys CA factory. It's been Garage kept it's entire life and is in Very Good Condition and has been kept completely all original. 350 2bbl car w/8.2 rear. Not sure of the gears yet but I'm assuming they are probably 3.08. Anyway, I am on the fence about making any changes to the car. I have HEI distributor sitting in my shop along with an aftermarket 4 bbl intake and carb. If I keep everything else original on the car but make a few modifications like headers, HEI, 4bbl intake and carb would I be ruining it! Or, would it still be considered original as long as I still have the numbers matching engine and drive train components? Also the A/C is not working and the person I bought it from told me that it needed a compressor clutch. Now, I'm not sure but I thought that if you can not turn the front of the compressor clutch, that it was an indication that the compressor itself was locked up, but I don't recall for sure as I'm no AC expert. I don't know if a bad clutch can be binding up keeping me from turning it or if it's actually a bad compressor. Help here?