MonteAZBB70
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Posts posted by MonteAZBB70
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A trick I learned from my dad a long time ago (and nothing I've ever seen in any book!) is to use a tap. Find one that's about the same size as the center hole and just start threading it in. It's bronze so it's frairly soft. Once the tap hits the end of the crank, the bushing will just start walking backwards out of the hole so you don't have a greasy mess to deal with.
Mike
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I used to know a guy that had a late '40's chopped Merc cruiser with a built big block Chevy in it. Not sure of all the circumstances, but he romped on it and the driveshaft came up through the floor doing a ton of damage and broke his daughter's feet in the process! Definitely not worth going without one in my opinion.
Mike
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I had to do that to my hookers
You had to do what to your hookers?! Sorry, just had to say it. It looks pretty funny taken out of context.
Mike
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I wish they made the Elite series in a longtube for a BB Monte. I've never had good luck with headers and the idea of a 3/8" thick flange is very appealing to me. I know Doug Thorley does, but I don't know of anyone here who's used them and I just can't see shelling out that kind of money right now to find out how well they fit. I'll just stick with manifolds for now I guess. Thanks.
Mike
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Which Hedmans? Do you have a big block?
Mike
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You might want to consider a different cam, too. According to this the 110 degree LSA of the XE268 wouldn't be optimal. There's some pretty good info here.
Mike
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Welcome, Phil. I'm sure I speak for others when I say it's nice to have another subject matter expert onboard. Get prepared to be bombarded with PM's!
Mike
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I do have the 2-1/2" Magnaflow system. I used that and Pypes downtubes right off the stock manifolds on my 402. My problem arose in placement of the X-pipe. Where it "wanted" to go created an interference problem with the tranny crossmember. In retrospect, the right thing to do would have been to stop right there and order a double-hump replacement crossmember. Not no, not me! I forged ahead and created more work and expense for myself! I shoved the X-pipe as far rearward as I could to create the most clearance I could get. Then when it came time to hang the tailpipes, there was just no way I could make them work...but I had already cut and installed the X-pipe and downtubes, so I was stuck. I took it to a very good shop out here called Pro Dyno. The guy that owned the shop and did the work on my car was Charles Hendrickson from Pinks. They are the only shop around here that does mandrel bent stainless work. He reworked the tailpipes and put on some slash-cut tips at my request. I had heard that there was too much resonance using the turn-down tips that come with the kit. Anyway, I'm very happy with the finsished product and the unique sound.
Mike
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Your Magnaflow kit fit perfectly? I had issues with mine. I'm very happy with the end result, but it was quite a fight and I had to have the tailpipes reworked. But I'm guessing that has to do with using manifolds and everything being basically stock. I'm curious to know what your combination is that allowed the kit to work so well.
Mike
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I hope I'm not opening a can of worms here, but what make Torque Tech so much better than everyone else? I can see muffler design making a huge difference, but what makes one manufacturer's mandrel bent pipes better than another's? Just curious...
Mike
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Are you looking to actually use the plate as a replacement for your existing plate? You'll probably want to check your state laws, but Ebay seems to be a good source.
Mike
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One end is attached to the tranny and the other to the shifter, right? I'm guessing the shifter is bolted directly and firmly to the floor. It seems you have unlike charges between the body and the drive train. Do you still have ground straps between the engine and the firewall? If not, you might want to put them back on. Also, make sure the shifter has metal-to-metal contact with the floor. In other words, you might need to make sure you don't have a bunch of undercoating or paint under the tranny tunnel where the bolts go through. Or, at the very least maybe try running a ground wire between the shifter and a seat bolt or something. As you found out, you definitely don't want the shifter cable providing your ground for you!
Mike
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I used the Prothane motor mount/tranny mount combo (part no. 7-1902-BL) when I put my 402/TH400 back in. I've never had ANY motor mounts before these that fit so well. I installed the engine and trans together and when the motor sat down on them mounts I could literally slide the bolts in and out by hand. No finagling required! My understanding is that Energy Suspension's quality is just as good but maybe someone with experience with their product will chime in. Based on my experience though, I'm wondering about the condition of your motor mounts. Are they the right ones? Are they in good shape? Is your tranny crossmember correct? Is it the original motor and tranny?
Mike
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It sounds like more testing is in order. As Don said, you need to find out why those three cylinders are low. It could be as simple as a valve job. You might try running the same test again "wet". Squirt a small amount of oil into each spark plug hole before doing the test to see if the numbers come up. If they do, rings are suspect. Other than that, a leak-down test will give you the best idea of what's going on inside.
Mike
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I'm certainly no tranny expert, but it sounds to me like your mechanic isn't getting the TV cable adjusted properly. These don't have a detent cable like the old TH350. They use a Throttle Valve cable to control shift points, line pressures, etc. Even the geometry of how the cable attaches to the carb can come into play. That's about all I know when it comes to OD trannies, but maybe someone else will chime in.
Mike
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Not a very good pic, but you get the point. Like Lloyd said, get the car way up in the air. You'll notice a jack under the car. Once the engine and trans has been lowered in the car, you can use a jack to pick up the tailshaft so you can get the crossmember in. A cherry picker with a lot of height really helps. And one of those engine tilter/load lever things is very handy!
Oh yeah, and getting something this big and heavy that high in the air is awfully scary! Be very careful and work slowly! At least one extra set of eyes and hands will help, too.
Mike
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Is it possible that the block has been decked so much that the gasket surface mating angles have changed and the gaskets just won't seal? I've heard of such things, but never seen it. Has anyone here ever had any experience with such things?
Mike
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...which brings up another good point. The firmer shifts could potentially shock the rest of your drivetrain. Your diff, u-joints, etc. will take a little (albeit minimal) extra beating.Yes, like said it will inprove the life of a tranny. It helps the transmission change without slippange, the less slippage the less wear.
But it also gives you a firmer shift, and at least in my car made it bark the rear tires when it changes, before the shiftkit, no barking tires when it changed.
Mike
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I'm no transmission expert, but my undestanding is a shift kit will actually increase the life of your tranny by reducing clutch slippage which in turn reduces tranny-killing heat.
Mike
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Definitely useful. Also, you'll need the tool to rotate the flexplate all the way around to remove all three bolts between the flexplate and the torque converter. A plug for the tranny tailshaft is nice so you don't end up wearing tranny fluid. The best piece of advice is BE CAREFUL! If you've never removed a transmission with a floorjack, it can get a little scary. They're usually greasy and slippery and they are very heavy. A good friend of my uncle's lost a finger when his tranny fell off the jack! There are floor jack adapters like this one which make the job easier and safer. Like Andreas said, they are front heavy. So much so that it is possible (although very unlikely) that the converter will slide out of the front and hit the ground. Just be careful and take your time!
Mike
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Pictures speak volumes. Very nice engine!
Thanks!Mike
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I don't suppose you have any pictures, do you?That's what I have and many, many others who have no complaints about looks and performance. As always just my two cents.
Mike
Aluminum Radiators
in Engine Tech
Posted
I went the "cheap" route when I did mine and bought SUM-380457. Dropped in like it was made for it, was less expensive than other aluminum radiators (although admittedly not as fancy as some) but most importantly cooled a mildly built BBC with A/C in the Phoenix summer heat!