mikeringland

I swapped my points ignition to the Pertronix electronic conversion kit, so I decided to double check the timing. With the engine idling, the notch on the vibration damper/harmonic balancer is nowhere near the timing mark tab, it is on the bottom of the engine. The car runs and drives like normal, but this does not seem right, the notch should at least be in the area of the timing tab to set the timing correctly, right? So I used a breaker bar and cranked the damper until the notch was at "0", TDC. Then I took off the distributor cap to verify that the rotor is pointing at cylinder 1, but it is not, it is pointing at cylinder 7. So I cranked the damper 360 degrees all the way around again to "0" and then the rotor was pointing at cylinder 4. I started the engine and it appeared to running fine, but again the timing notch is near the bottom of the engine again, nowhere near the timing mark tab. What is going on here? Something is wrong.

Haha, ok got it. What's a good circuit to jump off of to achieve this?

Yes, it makes sense. I was not aware that the positive lead was only operating at 6.5 volts. This is why I enjoy this forum, I am able to get clear answers to questions about this car. Thank you, Mike

Why do I need to run a new hot wire to the coil? What is wrong with the wiring that is present on the positive lead?

I bought the Pertronix ignition points conversion kit for my '72 Monte. The directions show a different way to wire the positive to the coil if the car is equipped with a ballast resistor. Does the '72 have one and what does it look like? Mike

I'm looking to convert my points system to electronic ignition. What do I need for parts, and can I leave the existing distributor itself installed? Thanks, Mike

Yeah I think they make a specific tool that screws into the spark plug hole and uses compressed air to do the same thing.

My '72 has the original 350 with around 100,000 miles on it. It runs well and doesn't leak oil, but when I start it up, it puffs blue smoke especially after it's been sitting for a few days. I'm assuming I need to replace the valve seals. I have the car backed into my garage for the winter and was thinking of tackling this project over the winter. My questions are: 1.) How truly difficult is this project? I have a decent set of tools and could probably rent or borrow any other necessary tools, 2.) How do I know exactly which valve seals to buy? Looking around online, it looks like there's about 6000 varieties for a small block chevy. If I go into Autozone and just tell them I have a bone stock '72 350, will they know which stock valve seals to give me? 3.) Are replacing the valve seals going to solve this problem, or could it be something more? My hopes are to one day put a big block in this car, but for now the 350 is going to have to do, so I really don't want to dump too much cash into this motor. Mike

Thanks for all the advice everyone, I really appreciate it. Mike

My '72 has original saggy front springs and 3 of the 4 ball joints are worn out resulting in an inward camber of both front wheels. I took the car to my local mechanic and he wants $1500 to put in new front springs and all 4 ball joints. I know it's a good amount of work, but I'd rather save some cash. I have never done front springs, so I'm little weary of the job, but I think I can pull it off. I priced out the parts and it's only a couple hundred bucks for basically stock stuff. I have a garage, jacks, tools, etc. It looks like the only other tools I'll need are a spring compressor, ball joint remover kit. Is there anything else I'll need for this job and am I crazy for taking this on or will I be ok? Thanks guys Mike

There was a green and a green with a white stripe. I tried the green on the new sending unit and it worked perfectly. I simply capped off the green/white. Thanks for the help, Mike

So the coolant temperature sensor I purchased for my 72 only has one terminal, but the factory idiot light temp sensor has two wires with a connector. Both wires look to be green. Which wire do I use, should I just do trial by error and see which one gets the temp gauge working correctly? Mike

I was able to find a kit of those male pin connectors for the plastic connector that links to the printed circuit board through Classic Industries. Here's two more questions: 1. My 72 has one of those "TCS" water temperature sending units with a two wire connector, will this sending unit work with the water temp gauge or no? It was an idiot light prior to the conversion. If I do have to change the sending unit, do they make a two wire connector type or do I only use one of the wires? 2. In MCfan's dash conversion directions he has the horn relay location on a '70 next to the radiator on the driver's side of the car. I believe in my '72 it is on the firewall to the right of the wiper pump motor. Am I right? It's a sliver square with two bolts to the firewall and one threaded stud with a few wires connected with eye ring crimps. Thanks for the help, Mike

The wiring connector I have in my car only utilizes 9 of the 12 ports in the connector. As a result, I have to add three wires (tach, 2 for amp meter). Is there somewhere I can find those copper male wire connectors that plug into the plastic 12 port connector? I tried Autozone and OPGI with no luck. They look like a pretty based connector, they must be available somewhere. The kit I purchased came with a new gauge pod. gauges, circuit board, bulbs and bulb sockets. It did not come with any wiring or water temperature sending unit. Mike

Dennis, I started the thread earlier this week about converting my idiot lights to complete working gauges. I ended up purchasing a completely new full gauge pod from sonnie24 on Ebay. Do you have directions for converting the wiring harness to make all of the gauges function properly? Can you email any directions you have to mikeringland@gmail.com. Thanks, Mike

The photo only attaches upside down for some strange reason, even though it's saved on my computer right side up.....

I have decided to give the dash and instrument panel of my 72 a renovation. The dash pad is cracked from 40 years of the Arizona sun, the original AM radio has got to go and i'd like to get rid of the idiot lights in the instrument cluster. I have a few questions I need help with: 1. I have the dash pulled apart, what are the steps to remove the radio? 2. The 70 Monte I had previously had the burlwood woodgrain instrument panel. This 72 has just a black plastic instrument panel. I purchased the woodgrain insert which is metal off of Ebay. Does the woodgrain just clip over the plastic panel? I have attached a photo showing the black instrument panel. 3. I want to get rid of the idiot lights and put in actual gauges. OPGI sells a conversion kit that allows you simply swap the 3 idiot lights for a voltmeter, water temp and oil pressure gauges. Unfortunately the item is back ordered and they no clue when it will be restocked. Seems like it's going to be a long time. Does anyone know of any other kits out there I can get to swap those idiot lights to factory looking gauges? The large three circle gauges in the center are fuel, speedometer and a broken clock which I am changing to a tachometer. Thank you in advance for any help or advice, Mike

I took a look at it this afternoon, the old one was just pressed in, came out pretty easily. The new one has nuts. It looks like I'm going to have to take lock latch out to be able to put the nuts on.

I'm looking to replace the original faded trunk lock bezel on my '72. Is it just pressed into the trunk or are there nuts holding it in? Any tips or tricks I should know? Mike

The back spacing on 15x8's is 4". I'll have to look into getting some of those doughnut spacers for the front springs to prevent the rubbing when the wheel is turned. Mike

I mounted 15x8 Corvette Rally wheels and 255/60R15 Mastercraft Avenger GT's. The rear tires rubbed a little due to the original springs being worn. I was planning on putting on new cargo coil springs and a friend told me to instead use station wagon springs from a 75 Vista Cruiser. I believe I will also have to bend in the fender lip to prevent any future rubbing. What is the best way to bend in that fender lip, I don't want to mangle the wheel well trim or damage the fender? Also, the front tires rub when I make a very sharp turn into a driveway or parking lot, is there anything I can do to fix this problem? The tire appears to be rubbing on the plastic wheel well on each side depending on if I turn left or right. Thanks for any tips, Mike

Damn, I really liked using those adjusters. My 72 sits very low in the back, I'm guessing maybe the original coil springs need to be changed? I would be ok with the car having an even stance, but it's really low in the back right now and it just doesn't look good. Mike

About 6 or 7 years ago I bought these spring adjusters for my 70 Monte that I came across on one of the discussion boards. They bolt onto the rear axle and go under each spring and they adjust to give the car more of a rake. I remember they came from Canada. Does anyone have a link to this product? I'm looking to possibly put them on the 72 I just picked up. Mike

I ended up picking up 15x8 rally wheels with 4" backspacing and 255/60R15 tires. I believe these will work based on the info from this thread and the wheel and tire database that is up as well. Right? Mike

Ok, here's my next question. A guy in my area is selling tires and wheels he has on his '70 Chevelle and claims they will fit my '72 Monte without any modifications. They are Rally Wheels, the fronts are 15x7 with 225/70/15's and the rears are 15x10 deep dish with 275/60/15's. Will those fit? Mike