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CrazyDavey

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Posts posted by CrazyDavey

  1. bad lifter...bad cam core....not enough additives in the oil...improper break-in....a lot of things can cause that Mike...I would consider going to a hyd roller this time, no special break-in or special additives needed.... wink

  2. Originally Posted By: Sam (Bones)
    that was great!!!!

     

    was that a red light I seen?

     

    Yep, I didn't catch it the first time.

     

    Red lights don't matter at TNT, wasn't trying for a light...that said if you do watch the drag strip graphic at the left side of the windshield you'll see the car creep just before it launches...that usually happens when I get on the throttle before the t-brake is fully engaged and the converter gets some load (the trans is not fully locked),..then it can drive through the brakes a bit...still rusty after a 4 month lay off.... eek..my last pass was a .003 though... grin

     

    Bill my 330' was 3.83 so I guess that would have the wheels up for what 200' or so?

  3. man that's some serious air..I had to full screen that just to get the real affect. That's a long time in the air, Question: You ever wonder the outcome when the wheels replant themselves back on the ground? It seemed scary to me, not being able to see the horizon or the car's attitude for what seemed almost three seconds. lol "Speed brews in your veins brother" cool

     

    no not really Rod....if it goes up straight then that's how it comes down..the vid doesn't really convey it but it's really pretty gentle, almost slow motion like....I don't think I want it to get any higher though...it would probably be a little faster if I limited the front travel some but it's so much fun and the people at the track really like it...I was amazed how many people were watching it yesterday....I'm cheap entertainment I guess... grin

  4. Woodburn has started their TNT so I went out with the Chevelle today...very good air, the best I've ever run in...a 30.20 baro and -175'DA...lot's of water in the air or it would have been idea weather...changed out the valve springs and put a fresh set of lifters in it as the old ones had about 450 passes on them (they still look perfect though)...

    all new bests for the car....9.47@140.03 1/4...5.99@114.22 1/8....1.33 60' then went 2 9.44's@140.xx 1/4....5.97@114.xx 1/8...both with 1.44 60'....the reason the last two were 1.44 60's is I tripped the light with the rear tires...felt like it carried the front forever grin

     

    woodburn_3-10-13.jpg

     

    here's an in car of the 9.44....

     

     

    she felt goood.... wink

  5. what Holley so you have Mark? Each one is going to be a bit different because of the varying signals each motor makes but compared to mine that would be kinda fat. On my dnyo pulls I was just about that same AR read at WOT....what are your readings at WOT? At light cruise you should probably be somewhere in the 14's....put in a fresh set of plugs and move all the jets down 2 steps at a time until you see it closer to that number. Then check the plugs and see how they look. If the color is still good you should be okay and get a little better fuel mileage too...

  6. Originally Posted By: CrazyDavey

     

    you made a great choice...the Ultra's have already gained a good rep for being pretty spot on right out of the box...just get to the track and play with the jetting a bit.... you should be good to go.... cool

     

    Can I send the car to you to dial it in at the track for me? smile I know, I just need to make the time to do that properly. My biggest concern was that it had to stay fun to drive on the street. I am amazed at how little I needed to do to dial it in for that. But it has always gnawed at me that my Frankenstein 850 was limiting the car at the track. Although I have severely limited the car's potential to put up big numbers in many ways, at least I think I have the right hardware on top of the motor now!

     

    yeah I think it's going to like that a bunch John...go have some fun and let us know....

  7. Originally Posted By: beater72
    He wants 'fuel economy'! kicking

     

    I'm getting at least 8 gallons to the mile now!

     

    And I'm desperately trying to shift the thamn ding at 6500, but it gets to 7000 much faster than I can anticipate yet. Time to touch up the trans probably, but the 850 got me well into the 10's, so this can't hurt!

     

    you made a great choice...the Ultra's have already gained a good rep for being pretty spot on right out of the box...just get to the track and play with the jetting a bit.... you should be good to go.... cool

  8. Originally Posted By: Sam (Bones)
    a 950 seems small for a 540ci confused

     

    ditto

     

    I have a Pro-systems 950 on my 462ci

     

    it depends on the rest of the build and the targeted operating range....if it doesn't have some big heads, big cam and get turned over 7200 it may not be small at all... wink

  9. Alright, pans will be done by the end of next week. So Im shopping for carpet and seat covers. Going to ACC for carpet and Cars Inc for covers. Although 700 for front and rear cloth is not what I thought I would pay. haha. Some random questions that have been bouncing around in my head. Opinions welcomed...

     

    My flywheel has a 6 inch section thats chewed half the teeth.

     

    [img:left]2013-02-16_07-50-35_641_zps36c58e7b.jpg[/img]

     

    SCAT 454 flex plate and summit pro torque mini starter rated for 153 and 168 tooth plates. Im not using any shims, would that cause the damage? Should I just replace the plate while the motor is out?

     

    What are your recommendations for an external trans cooler? Feelings on the inline? If your running one where did you mount it?

     

    I was going to upgrade to ARP bell housing bolts to help prevent cracking through the entire bell housing again. Any experience with the stud kits? They are kinda pricey but are they worth it?

     

    Trying to free up cash to upgrade to a 1000cfm carb. Was thinking Bigs or Pro Form. Currently have quickfuel and she has never really run right. Opinions on each?

     

    Thanks for all the input guys.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    yes....you need to shim it for correct engagement....most good starters will come with instructions on how to do that. If your starter didn't then try going tot he MSD site and look at the instructions for their starters....

  10. Will having tried both I would say stay away from a ratchet shifter, they can be a little temperamental, I like the gate style shifter a lot more (I use a B&M Magnum Pro Stick myself)....couple of questions...what are "Allison" bearings? I use Torrington but never heard of Allison....What kind of front hub did he use? Any good "race" prep'd trans will use a steel one (probably 50% of the failures are blowing up the factory style cast hubs).... wink

  11. Dave you are right, having the bigger valves and ports tend to flow bigger numbers at higher rpms. I know that can be a real problem because of the large volume the air slows down and looses velocity. And in the real world for usable street power it does go out of the rpm range that I would use 90% of the time. Although it will not change the size and flow ability of any of these things, what do you think about running a little smaller cam to comensate for some of this?

     

    you took the words right out of my mouth....the right cam would definitely help that. I would contact Chris Straub and let him design a cam that fits the rest of the combo, he will work magic for you. 423 391-7774...tell him Davey sent you....

  12. Thanks for the info, I appreciate it!

    The Zl1 block is all aluminum and it has sleeves that are siamieased. The bore is 4.25 stock. Although it will take a crank with a longer stroke I'm going with a 4.25, I don't like the rod angle on the longer stroke and I think it will give it a little more longevity. I do like the Callies crank but I'm also looking at a Crower crank that is bladed and lightened. I really have to watch myself here because I am a gearhead/drag racer and tend to go over the top.

    The heads I have have a 117cc chamber and 290cc intake port, they say they flow 327 @ .60 and 350@ .80 before the hand porting was done. Thats a 2.300 intake & 1.88 exhaust Stainless valve and I do have titanium retainers. The intakes ports are about 2 1/2" tall and about 1 3/4" wide and the intake is similar to the Victor JR in its a large single plane, but this is much bigger. (Trust me I know Bigger is not always better and that all of the components have to work together. I think you can see the drag racer coming out in me with this build.) As far as a carb goes it probably will be about a 1050 dominator.

    Well, thats it for now... Let me know what you think...

    Oh, and the compression will be about 11-1 and I want to run pump gas.

     

    looks like a really fun build...one thing you might want to look at is the 2.30 valve....just be aware of where you want the motor to operate. In all the testing we did on mine we found the the 2.3 valve hurt the low lift numbers on my 305's. So if you're keeping peak power under 7000 you might look at some 2.25's.... wink

  13. Will what's the motor, gear and at least estimated cam spec's? A converter will react different depending on the setup it's running in. 3000 is generally not a lot to performance people but there are "tight" and "loose" converters depending on how they're built and that makes a difference on how they drive on the street. wink

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